News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

Question about bleeding brakes

Started by sixpack_sid, February 27, 2011, 08:07:54 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

sixpack_sid

I just put a disc brake conversion kit on my 68 Charger. I tried bleeding the brakes today, and I couldn't get them bled. I  had my wife inside the car pumping the brake pedal. I didn't get any air pressure or fluid out of the rear cylinders. Since I don't have the engine in yet, and it's just the booster and there's no hose going from the back of the carb to the booster, you can hear the air pressure at the booster. Can it be bled that way? Or is there another way to do it? I went with Dot 5 fluid since I just painted the car in late Sept. Thanks for the replies!
I have seen evil! I have seen horror!
I have seen the unholy maggots which feast in the dark recesses of the human soul!
I have seen all this. But until today, I have never seen such a pain in the ars car like this 68 Charger!

Back N Black

Did you bench bleed the master cylinder? Try opening the bleeder screws at the wheel cylinder and let it gravity bleed.

sixpack_sid

Quote from: Back N Black on February 27, 2011, 08:19:46 PM
Did you bench bleed the master cylinder? Try opening the bleeder screws at the wheel cylinder and let it gravity bleed.

I did bench bleed the mc. I should mention that this is a whole new system all new lines, new mc, new booster, new prop valve, front disc brake kit w/calipers, the works. I only tried to bleed the rear pass wheel. At the rear, the t block it was leaking so I had to tighten the line there, but saw no fluid beyond that. I opened the bleeder screw all the way, had my wife pump the brakes and saw no fluid.
Would the fact that there is no line from the carb to the booster cause the problem of not being able to bleed the system?
I have seen evil! I have seen horror!
I have seen the unholy maggots which feast in the dark recesses of the human soul!
I have seen all this. But until today, I have never seen such a pain in the ars car like this 68 Charger!

Back N Black

Quote from: sixpack_sid on February 27, 2011, 08:25:40 PM
Quote from: Back N Black on February 27, 2011, 08:19:46 PM
Did you bench bleed the master cylinder? Try opening the bleeder screws at the wheel cylinder and let it gravity bleed.


Would the fact that there is no line from the carb to the booster cause the problem of not being able to bleed the system?

No line to the booster is not an issue, i bleed mine with no engine in the car. I had the same problem no fluid out back, so i just open the bleeders and came back a couple hours later and they were dripping, my buddy pumped and bleed no problem.

terrible one

Just making sure . . . are you closing the bleeder when she lets the pedal back up? If not it will suck air back in on the return and you won't get anywhere.

sixpack_sid

Quote from: Back N Black on February 27, 2011, 08:32:00 PM
Quote from: sixpack_sid on February 27, 2011, 08:25:40 PM
Quote from: Back N Black on February 27, 2011, 08:19:46 PM
Did you bench bleed the master cylinder? Try opening the bleeder screws at the wheel cylinder and let it gravity bleed.


Would the fact that there is no line from the carb to the booster cause the problem of not being able to bleed the system?

No line to the booster is not an issue, i bleed mine with no engine in the car. I had the same problem no fluid out back, so i just open the bleeders and came back a couple hours later and they were dripping, my buddy pumped and bleed no problem.

Makes sense. I'll try that. Thanks!
I have seen evil! I have seen horror!
I have seen the unholy maggots which feast in the dark recesses of the human soul!
I have seen all this. But until today, I have never seen such a pain in the ars car like this 68 Charger!

sixpack_sid

Quote from: terrible one on February 27, 2011, 08:35:51 PM
Just making sure . . . are you closing the bleeder when she lets the pedal back up? If not it will suck air back in on the return and you won't get anywhere.

Yes, thanks for asking.
I have seen evil! I have seen horror!
I have seen the unholy maggots which feast in the dark recesses of the human soul!
I have seen all this. But until today, I have never seen such a pain in the ars car like this 68 Charger!

sixpack_sid

Ok, so I tried to gravity feed the brakes today and the lines were dry as a bone. So I called "The Right Stuff" tech line (where I bought the kit) and they told me that the prop valve I have, the PV75, they don't even make anymore. I just bought this kit last year. Anyway, he told me that there is a slider in the prop valve that will close if there is a leak in the line, so the other brakes can still work. So he told  me to open up the bleeders on the front brakes and pump the brake pedal hard, then close the bleeders and open the back bleeders. Then gravity feed the lines and it should work. Well, I tried it and let it drip for about an hour. When I tried to bleed the rear wheel again, the fluid stopped leaking completely. WTF!! Anybody know where I can get a decent prop valve that doesn't have a slider in it? I want it to be old school and am having lots of problems! The Right Stuff said they could send me another, but I have to send mine back 1st. Yeah, right! And let my $20 per qt. Dot 5 brake fluid all drain out while I wait for a new one! LOL! I'm not sure I can use my old distributor block since I changed to front disc and besides the lines aren't the same sizes.
Help! :brickwall:
I have seen evil! I have seen horror!
I have seen the unholy maggots which feast in the dark recesses of the human soul!
I have seen all this. But until today, I have never seen such a pain in the ars car like this 68 Charger!

resq302

Do what I did till I got mine back when I had an issue.  Get the rubber vacuum caps and put them over the lines.  That should keep the fluid in the lines till you get a chance to replace the block.  As long as you dont press on the brake pedal, the caps should remain in place and prevent you from dripping the fluid out.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

sixpack_sid

I called The Right Stuff and they are sending me another prop valve. We'll see if that does the trick!
I have seen evil! I have seen horror!
I have seen the unholy maggots which feast in the dark recesses of the human soul!
I have seen all this. But until today, I have never seen such a pain in the ars car like this 68 Charger!

sixpack_sid

I got the new prop valve today from The Right Stuff-by the way, good customer service-they sent me a new one right away even though it's been almost a year since I ordered the kit. I hooked it up and bled the brakes no problem. Whew! Now I can move on to the dash!
Thanks for the replies!
I have seen evil! I have seen horror!
I have seen the unholy maggots which feast in the dark recesses of the human soul!
I have seen all this. But until today, I have never seen such a pain in the ars car like this 68 Charger!

1969chargerrtse

Awesome.  Would suck if you put it in and that wasn't the issue.
This car was sold many years ago to somebody in Wisconsin. I now am retired and living in Florida.