Trannie questions 904 to 727

[Khyron]

My charger has a 904 that basically is toast now. I have a 727 small block transmission sitting on my floor I was going to have serviced and I was going to put into the car. So here is my questions.

I understand that the yoke is different from the 904 to the 727, so I'll need a new yoke, drive shaft <the 727 is 2 inches longer> etc.

so here is my question. is the yoke on the 727 big block trannie the same at the 727 small block trannie. Can I get away with just using a big block drive shaft??

as a reminder, this is a budget build. Any information would be gratefully. Thanks

[RD]

My charger has a 904 that basically is toast now. I have a 727 small block transmission sitting on my floor I was going to have serviced and I was going to put into the car. So here is my questions.

I understand that the yoke is different from the 904 to the 727, so I'll need a new yoke,

yes that is true, you will need a 727 yoke.

drive shaft <the 727 is 2 inches longer> etc.

727 is 4 1/8" longer but 4" is a good rounded number because the drive shaft lengths are different between the 7 1/4, 8 1/4, 8 3/4 and dana 60, but not by a lot.

the 727 sb and bb tranny's use the same yoke.  the only difference between the two tranny's are the bell housing patterns.

[John_Kunkel]

If you intend to keep the fully automatic shift feature, keep in mind that the 904 throttle pressure linkage won't work on the 727; some components are the same and some aren't.

[Khyron]

great RD, thanks. That means I'll just need a BB drive shaft and save myself some money. The car has a 8 3/4 like 80% of them

If you intend to keep the fully automatic shift feature, keep in mind that the 904 throttle pressure linkage won't work on the 727; some components are the same and some aren't.

I'm planning on going to a manual shift kit. Maybe trans-co?

So what would you recommend I use? is there a cable or something I could purchase. Thanks for the info. I was unaware of that.

[RD]

great RD, thanks. That means I'll just need a BB drive shaft and save myself some money. The car has a 8 3/4 like 80% of them

If you intend to keep the fully automatic shift feature, keep in mind that the 904 throttle pressure linkage won't work on the 727; some components are the same and some aren't.

I'm planning on going to a manual shift kit. Maybe trans-co?

So what would you recommend I use? is there a cable or something I could purchase. Thanks for the info. I was unaware of that.

if you have MVB you do not need a kickdown cable.  If you run a stock VB with a shift kit, lokar makes a great cable for it.  I have one and it was easy to adjust and works flawlessly.

as far as MVB's go, i heard griner was really good, though I have had no personal experience with them.

[Khyron]

o.k. that makes sence. So what your sayin gis if I just put in a shift kit, I'll still need the linkage / cable to run the car. HOWEVER. if I buy a cheetha MVB and bolt it in. The kickdown linkage and cable are not needed. I'm on Mancinics web site looking at 2.

Manual Valve Body - Torqueflite 727,904,998,999

Provide full manual control only. No automatic features. Some models available in stock and reverse pattern. Not recommended for street application. Eliminates use of passing gear linkage and / or vacuum hook-up. Positive shifts for maximum performance.

The CHEETAH Manual Valve Body includes valve body assembled where applicable and lor valve body with spacer plate, valve body gasket(s), pan gasket(s) and step-by-step installation instructions


TUR17156$156.95



  CHEETAH Pro Street Valve Body

The wait is over! CHEETAH Pro Street Valve Body, Forward Pattern (PRN321) now available for TF727 & TF904. These valve bodies bring great shifts, low band applied in Manual Low and no throttle linkage required. Fully Manual up or down any speed. Safe on the street, great performance at the track and increased reliability.


TUR17675$198.95

The first one looks like it would meet my needs, but the second one looks like it's got more options. I don't mind spending the $200 <it will cost me $300 to have a garage simply put in a shift kit> What would you recommend for my setup?

*EDIT* Iwould prefure the forward <standard> shift pattern. Mind you . this car is mainly a street runner and will get little use at the track.

[RD]

the cheetah's are good.  I have many friends using them in their setups.  I would use the second because it has a "low-band apply" which is a safety feature so as not to blow your rear sprag and rollers.  between the two, i would pic the second just because of that feature.

[firefighter3931]

the cheetah's are good.   I have many friends using them in their setups.   I would use the second because it has a "low-band apply" which is a safety feature so as not to blow your rear sprag and rollers.   between the two, i would pic the second just because of that feature.

The 17675 is a fully manual valvebody that requires shifting the gears....no automatic features at all. It is forward pattern with low band apply. The 17676 is a manual/automatic valvebody. All auto shifting valvebodies are low band by design....fyi.

Ron

[RD]

*EDIT* Iwould prefure the forward <standard> shift pattern. Mind you . this car is mainly a street runner and will get little use at the track.

man if you were only closer, i would do it for you.  how well do you know tranny's?  I could put an automatic shifting VB together with a shift kit that will rattle your joints when shifting and break u-joints hehe .  If you could pull the VB off and send it to me with the shift kit, I will do it for you then just mail it back to you.

[John_Kunkel]

Any valve body work that doesn't also involve the servos leaves the job half done.

[deathcharger71]

i hate to hi jack this thread but i have a simialar question since im considering swapping out by 904 for a 727....is there any way to make a 904 strong enough to handle the abuse of a mild 360 with a driver who plans on abusing the crap out of it. ive been told the 904 is just crap and to get a 727, but with the cost of a shortening the drive shaft and and the new tranny i could safe a lot of money just getting the 904 rebuilt with performance parts. also would the resale value of the car benefit at all with a 727 over a 904?

[RD]

you can build up a 904 no problem.  it will hold just find under a mild 360, unless you are a derby driver 

[Khyron]

i hate to hi jack this thread but i have a simialar question since im considering swapping out by 904 for a 727....is there any way to make a 904 strong enough to handle the abuse of a mild 360 with a driver who plans on abusing the crap out of it. ive been told the 904 is just crap and to get a 727, but with the cost of a shortening the drive shaft and and the new tranny i could safe a lot of money just getting the 904 rebuilt with performance parts. also would the resale value of the car benefit at all with a 727 over a 904?

I would suggest then my original route. Get a A-999. it's a lower geared 904 and made a bit better. Still get a shift kit and such into it. The reason I went 727 is I got it free and it's rock solid

[deathcharger71]

this is the first time ive heard of an A-999, will it be cheaper then everything ill have to do with a 727? and could i just rebuild my 904 to be as tough as an A-999? i found a shop that will build me a 727 for 550 bucks with a shift kit, and im guessing another 200? to shorten drive shaft. im gonna get a mvb so i dont need to worry about the linkage. i am the type of person who will abuse it til it dies lol launches, burn outs, constant wot through 1st gear. and ill have 4.10 gears so i dont want any shorter of a gear...which if i understand correctly the A-999 has over the 904.

[John_Kunkel]

The A-999 is a heavier duty version of the 904, it has an extra disc in the front clutch and a wider kickdown band.

Not all A-999's have the low gearset, the A-999 was introduced in '74 but didn't get the low gearset until '80.