wide stickies up front

[c00nhunterjoe]

I want to get a nice "road race" feel to my car instead of the floating boat feeling it has right now. Among the suspension and steering upgrades is tires. If possible I want to have the same size on all 4 corners. I have 275.60.15's out back and am going to step down to 275.50.15's. Do you think 275.50's will fit up front? I'm not sure my offset offhand but my wheels do sit out a far amount. The 275 60's almost rub my outer 1\4 in the rear if that gives you an idea.

[c00nhunterjoe]

Also, ontop of my width question what brand tires do you reccomend? I'm currently leaning towards the nitto 555r's

[RallyeMike]

The 69 I just picked up has 15" Rallye wheels with ancient BFG 275/50/15's up front. It looks like a good fit. Be aware though that the manufacturers have pretty much abandoned that tire size though. There are very limited choices available.

[HPP]

The floating boat feeling is more a function of the steeering system's over assist and the old, bias ply alignment than it is of actual tire width. While wider tires will increase the effort required,which will translate into a slightly firmer steering, the best solution is to replace the factory box with a Firm Feel Stage box, or a Steer & Gear police box. After that, dump the stock alignment spec and go for maximum postive caster to 5 degrees, zero to -1 camber, balanced against the caster available, and .0625 toe in. This will also alter some of the floating feelng that occurs with power steering and negative caster.

[elacruze]

The floating boat feeling is more a function of the steeering system's over assist and the old, bias ply alignment than it is of actual tire width. While wider tires will increase the effort required,which will translate into a slightly firmer steering, the best solution is to replace the factory box with a Firm Feel Stage box, or a Steer & Gear police box. After that, dump the stock alignment spec and go for maximum postive caster to 5 degrees, zero to -1 camber, balanced against the caster available, and .0625 toe in. This will also alter some of the floating feelng that occurs with power steering and negative caster.

You can't make a silk purse from a sow's ear. I've replaced torsion bars, sway bar, suspension bushings, upper control arms, shock absorbers, steering box and tie rods to achieve what you're asking for. Certainly, you can do better with these suggested specs; you may not get more than 3* caster with stock parts tho. Max out the caster and make sure your shocks are premium. After that, upper control arms (Offset bushings/ball joints are available but I don't know much about them) and a modded steering box have the most effect. I'm sure you can get a different opinion on the sequence from every member. I say let your wallet be your guide. If you have a big block engine in a small block car, bigger torsion bars are probably the best first step and not much work to replace.

[c00nhunterjoe]

The plan is subframe connectors, stage 2 box, bigger bars, sway bars ft and rear, tubular upper control arms, boxed lowers, and hd rear springs. Aignment was planned with specs smilar to those suggested but only -.5 camber and -.05 toe.