Overwhelmed!

[FLG]

Ron had no issues with lowering his k-frame when it came to steering/suspension

[Bobs69]

I've wondered for awhile why TTI has held their prices so high for so long. So many other products get cheaper after being on the market for some time. Lets agree that ALL of the research and development needed to build their headers has been paid for for many years. Why then do they still gouge customers? The housing market and bad economy has resulted in devalued real estate. Project cars and restored cars are bringing less money than they did 4 years ago.
I have bought 2 sets of their headers and have been happy with the quality. I have zero complaints about how they fit. I just wish that they would be more realistic about their pricing.

Yeah if they were more realistic I'd likely get a set now and maybe another down the road, but since not I'll wait till the car is much more presentable and hopefully only get one pair.

[Kern Dog]

I have heard and read of guys putting spacers between the K frame and the frame rails, but to me it just seems wrong. Add that "fix" to the other list of "What the hell were they thinking?" improvements such as......
Inch thick Bondo over window screen.
Bathroom caulk around leaky car windows.
Aluminum foil in place of an automotive fuse.
Sawdust in the diff to quell the whine.
Welded spider gears.
Trusting a Harbor Freight torque wrench on your Mopar engine.

[Steve P.]

I don't think I would go that far.....    

The first one I know of has been a daily driver since just after the MATS in 05'. It was a 440/4-speed car that is now sporting a Hemi. Another is Ron's BLACK PIG.  He's got a few years on them now without issue.. I had questioned it at first myself, but was told many have done it for years and I KNOW BOTH of these guys I am telling you about and they are working well.... 

[Bobs69]

Okay so there I got 2 decisions made.

I'll wrap heat/tap/peen a set of old headers for now until I get the engine bay nice enough.

I'll buy the MSD 6Al  (6425)


Now whats the easiest cleanest looking fix for an alternator upgrade.  I've read on hear someone using a alternator from a 2002 Ram Van.  I have the VR706 voltage regulator.

I've also seen something about a Nippondenso alternator.


Thoughts on this people?

[Bobs69]

oh and another thing.  Will this protect my new DB mini starter?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-350118/

[Bobs69]

Still puting my grocery list together, because if I order everything from Summit I have it sent to my inlaws, no way I want it going straight to Canada, I'd getted raped on brockerage fees and so on.

Where do I but the valley pan with the crossovers for the chock blocked off?

[Bobs69]

Allright fellas I have all of the bolts off of my headers and the are loose in there.  A mechanic, acquaintance of mine who just opened up his own shop and doesn't work saturdays told me they pretty much fall off!  The passenger side I think he said.  Driver's side you take it out with the starter.  Pretty sure he is talking about his 383 RR.  I have a 440 and I have seen the 2 engines side by side on the floor at one time and the 440 is much wider, and taller. 

Perhaps a stud extrator whould be helpfull creating some more room.................

[Bobs69]

Well it was sunday, and the thought of waiting for a stud extractor that may or may not work, and in tight areas..............yeah right.  I welded one nut on and got a stud out that way, tried on a second a couple times and decided I wasn't comfortable doing that.  I tried using 2 nuts and wasn't working and I didn't want to try it again.  Tedious.  So, hahaha.  I pulled the motor.  Well lifted it up anyhow.  Figure I'll  be able to get a better look at that damned pipe plug for the fuel pump pushrod that I can't get out.

I won't be using studs again.  I wasn't about to use the same ones a second time anyhow, but I won't use studs if I can help it.   Just don't like the idea of the water jackets being plugged up with guuueee instead of the shouldered stud.  However, seams to be enough people on here doing it.

[Bobs69]

Oh this is great.  Check out the pictures.

New Stud Extractor set.  $75 cnd



5 minutes after taking the previous picture.



Then I broke another type of easy out.  Flute extractor I think it's called.  Now I got a bigger one in and still can't get it.  What an opportunity, a challenge, a chance to grow.  How I love it.  Too bad the car show is this weekend.  I'll miss it again.

[Bobs69]

They yellow  burnt crap in the above picture is grease I smeared into the spark-plug hole to catch the shavings from drilling.

[440]

Personally I would have used a center punch to start drilling a hole in the center of the stud. If an ez-out didn't get it out by that point I'd invest in a tap set and drill the bolt out starting small and working up untill either the "sleeve" left behind came out or could be tapped to clean the threads, all the while being very careful not to damage the existing threads.

I'd also stick a rag in the exhaust port  

[FLG]

Break out the welder and keep at it...15 min laterthe broken stud will be out...i guarantee it, done it more times than i can out, even had a member do it recently and after a few tries his was out as well. The heat from the welding is really what gets things going thats why it usually takes a few times. Also tighten first than loosen, dont just go for it.

[Bobs69]

Break out the welder and keep at it...15 min laterthe broken stud will be out...i guarantee it, done it more times than i can out, even had a member do it recently and after a few tries his was out as well. The heat from the welding is really what gets things going thats why it usually takes a few times. Also tighten first than loosen, dont just go for it.

I'll have to think about that for a bit.  But what they hell I'll try it.  And I did use a centre punch to start with, obviously my eyes let me down.

[Bobs69]

And thanks, I will stick a rag in the exhaust port.  Probably have a broken spark plug somewhere that I can put back in since it looks like I'll be staying there for awhile.

[440]

Never thought about FLG's way, but sounds like a good idea if your handy with a welder. I agree the heat probably does the most good in removing the stud. Expand/contract would break the hold on the stud. 

[Bobs69]

I am willing to try, but you guys do realize that it is broken flush.  Actually I'd say it is an "inny".  So I'm not sure what to weld.   Am I suppose to but the extractor in and weld on it or something?


Thanks for the input.

[FLG]

Theres 2 ways you can do it...

Take a large flat washer (fender washer, ones with the normal size holes but larger surface area) find one just the size of the stud. Clean the stud off, place the washer on over the stud hole (i can see by the pics its nearly flush so your fine) and weld the washer right to the stud, use plenty of heat dont be scared the weld wont stick to the cast iron. Than when your done proceed to weld a nice size nut to the washer...again using plenty of heat you want the heat from the weld to help you with loosening things up. Proceed first going tighter (just a bit) than looser...and so on, either the weld is going to break or the stud is going to start moving. If the weld breaks do it again..usually on the 2nd or 3rd try it will come out, just make sure your using enough heat to weld it to the stud.

The other way is to simply weld a nut to the stud, i find it works better for smaller bolts though.

[Bobs69]

Okay.  Fortunately I have another set of heads on a work bench that have a similar problem in a different hole.  I worked at it for 30 minutes probably welding washers and nuts to it.  I'm fairly certain there is a mis-understanding here but what the hell I tried it anyhow!  No luck.  I can't seem to weld it strong enough.  I may try it again, but I'm not holding my breath.


I do however like the idea of using the welder don't get me wrong!  Vice Grips, Angle Grinders, Welders.  If if can't be fixed using one of those then it can't be done!  Well you could probably add hammer, sledge hammer, torches, duct tape...................others?

[FLG]

Might just be not enough heat, did you turn it up?

Heres proof it works

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,82567.0.html

[Bobs69]

Heat is on Maximum.  I'm watching the video I found in the link you sent.

[Bobs69]

Oh I believe it works.  I'm just not having the good luck.  I have resolved the problem.  I used a "roto-zip" which is like a dremel to keep shaving away at it until I was able to use an original stud to just grad, then used a tap.  I used a magnet to collect shavings, then plugged the lower rad hose and ran water into the water pump.   Lets see if the pictures turn out.

[Bobs69]

Spelling mistake.  I used a roto-zip to shave away unitl an origianl stud was able to GRAB the threads.

Here is the next issue.  Probably going to weld it.  Somehow.





this is of course.  The pipe plug containing the fuel pumps pushrod.  I want it out of there.  It's giving me a claustrophobic fealing!

[Bobs69]

It's out.  Prick.  here are some pictures of my fuel pump pushrod.

I think I read on here someplace that it needs to be 3.25inches?  Mine is slightly........not.  Is this like horseshoes and hand-granades or are we making Swiss Watches?   I want to be like Dairy Queen, you know got that extra mile.

[Bobs69]

Anyone have some information on this fuel pump pushrod?


Also I have studs & nuts holding my exhaust headers on, originally.  I wanted to use new hardware.  The studs I got don't have the raised shoulder, but since guys use bolts with no shoulders, does it really matter?