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Novice question - floor pan

Started by grdprx, February 08, 2011, 11:30:24 PM

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grdprx

I have some work to do on my drivers side floor pan.  Not your typical issues either...  I had a jack stand punch the floor up.  One of my first questions is, does the transmission need to be removed to weld in a new pan?  I found this picture on here, and it appears everything is in place, besides the floor... The torsion bar, and transmission lines, ect...  Is this OK, or not advisable?  :shruggy:

I'll post pictures of my problem later, I just realised that the pics aren't loaded on the computer; and the Wif has the camera currently...   :flame:

HOTROD

Just cover the trans with a welding blanket  :shruggy: !
What the Hell-Dumass !

grdprx

Here are the pictures of my predicament..  The car tipped off the jack and jack stand as I was repositioning this stand.  I survived, as the car tipped toward me, but the floor didn't fare so well. 

bobs66440

First off, thank your lucky stars that you didn't become another accident statistic.  :cheers:

Secondly, I don't see a problem with installing the floor with all that in place as long as you don't get these things too hot while welding. Make sure everything is safely out of the way and if it can't be, then remove it.  :2thumbs:

How much of the floor pan do you want to replace? I would check the entire floor for rust (driver & passenger side). I know that some of the small holes there are from the spot welds popping, bit it looks like there may be a few small rust holes there too (could be wrong). If so, I would check everywhere, and judge how much of the floor needs to be replaced then. If there's no other rust I would try to keep the repair panel as localized as possible, as opposed to, say, replacing the entire driver's side pan to fix this.

That being said, it looks like the trans is pretty close to the floor there and being an automatic trans with an aluminum housing, I wouldn't weld too close to it. Also, you don't want the heat too close to trans fluid, etc. It's hard to judge by the pics but it looks like some damage goes up where the bigger part of the trans hump meets with the fire wall. If so, that can be a complicated repair and I think I would want the trans out of the way, but you want to make sure that the floor clears the trans after it's all done. Judging by the pics I would probably remove the trans if I were seaming it at the trans tunnel. If you are going to do a butt weld, I would want access to the underside in case I wanted to clean up some of the welds or put in seam sealer. Even if you are doing a lap weld, it's advisable to use seam sealer and you would need to get access. If you are replacing the entire trans tunnel then the trans may be able to stay in.

elitecustombody

To do it right,just spend extra hour and pull motor with tranny, that way you'll have better access to floor from both sides and I hope you replace full floor.Let me know if you'd like a good deal on AMD parts.


AMD-Auto Metal Direct  Distributor, email me for all your shetmetal needs

Stefan