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Position of LCa when installing torsion bars

Started by AmadeusCharger500, February 18, 2011, 03:46:51 PM

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AmadeusCharger500

I have the the lower and upper connected loosely to the steering knuckle. This is the position it was in when I removed the torsion bars. I don't need to crank up the LCA with a jack to the next notch fitting to resinstall t-bar do I? This would raise wheel bast up several degree radius. I just don't want to have to undo things.

FLG

If you jacked up the LCA and installed the bars..they would be doing nothing.

You need to unload the torsion bar adjusting screw completely, remove the bump stop from the upper control arm as well, should give you the bit more you need to install the bars.

elacruze

I have only a very slight preload on mine in this photo.


1968 505" EFI 4-speed
1968 D200 Camper Special, 318/2bbl/4spd/4.10
---
Torque converters are for construction equipment.

grdprx

I had this same question a couple weeks ago.  I ran into trouble getting the drivers side in the LCA, same side that was a bitch to get out!   :brickwall:  :brickwall:  :brickwall:

Anyway, I had had the LCA out, so I just loosened the nut on the shaft a bit more, to give it more wiggle room; drop down a bit more... It worked.  I'd seen the suggestion somewhere on here about doing that.. I had just tightened it up too much before I tried to put the T bar in.

Not to Hi-jack the thread, but I had a question Elacruze, since your picture illustrates my current problem so well...  I tried putting my new sway bar links on today.  The bushings aren't flush with the sway bar, and I can't get a nut on the top, cuz there is too much gapping.  Hopefully my picture will make my words make sense..

elacruze

Quote from: grdprx on February 19, 2011, 09:23:27 PM
Not to Hi-jack the thread, but I had a question Elacruze, since your picture illustrates my current problem so well...  I tried putting my new sway bar links on today.  The bushings aren't flush with the sway bar, and I can't get a nut on the top, cuz there is too much gapping.  Hopefully my picture will make my words make sense..

Hard to tell without seeing the entire bar end to end, but looks like it could be installed upside-down. It will also come more to center as the LCA moves up.
1968 505" EFI 4-speed
1968 D200 Camper Special, 318/2bbl/4spd/4.10
---
Torque converters are for construction equipment.

grdprx

Quote from: elacruze on February 19, 2011, 09:50:10 PM
Quote from: grdprx on February 19, 2011, 09:23:27 PM
Not to Hi-jack the thread, but I had a question Elacruze, since your picture illustrates my current problem so well...  I tried putting my new sway bar links on today.  The bushings aren't flush with the sway bar, and I can't get a nut on the top, cuz there is too much gapping.  Hopefully my picture will make my words make sense..

Hard to tell without seeing the entire bar end to end, but looks like it could be installed upside-down. It will also come more to center as the LCA moves up.

Ya, I think I found something that says the front end needes to be loaded when installing?  The bar has the up wards bend in it, like I've seen on some, but as you can see in that picture; it looks like the hole for the link angles down, I've seen examples on here that don't, like yours.  I think I'll try loading the LCA, see it it gets better.  Maybe the bar needs replacement.  It's about the only thing I haven't now replaced on the front suspension...

maxwellwedge

His are non sway bar lowers with an aftermaket tab on the top. Your lowers are factory sway bar lowers with that bracket welded on....the angle is different between the two.

grdprx

Quote from: maxwellwedge on February 19, 2011, 11:20:00 PM
His are non sway bar lowers with an aftermaket tab on the top. Your lowers are factory sway bar lowers with that bracket welded on....the angle is different between the two.

So I'm ok?

bull

Quote from: elacruze on February 19, 2011, 08:59:04 AM
I have only a very slight preload on mine in this photo.




How much did you pay for those shocks? Last time I saw them for sale they were over $400 a set. :o

elacruze

Quote from: bull on February 20, 2011, 12:08:47 PM
Quote from: elacruze on February 19, 2011, 08:59:04 AM
I have only a very slight preload on mine in this photo.


How much did you pay for those shocks? Last time I saw them for sale they were over $400 a set. :o

Yes, $425 from FirmFeel. There are places to save, and places to not. Suspension and shocks are not a place to scrimp, although there is stupid $$ to be spent if you want world-class pieces like adjustable Bilstein, KYB or Penske. I'm not racing, but I don't want to spend $200 every year or so for new monroes.
1968 505" EFI 4-speed
1968 D200 Camper Special, 318/2bbl/4spd/4.10
---
Torque converters are for construction equipment.

maxwellwedge

Quote from: grdprx on February 20, 2011, 12:46:16 AM
Quote from: maxwellwedge on February 19, 2011, 11:20:00 PM
His are non sway bar lowers with an aftermaket tab on the top. Your lowers are factory sway bar lowers with that bracket welded on....the angle is different between the two.

So I'm ok?

Are they tightened up fully?

grdprx

Quote from: maxwellwedge on February 20, 2011, 06:35:16 PM
Quote from: grdprx on February 20, 2011, 12:46:16 AM
Quote from: maxwellwedge on February 19, 2011, 11:20:00 PM
His are non sway bar lowers with an aftermaket tab on the top. Your lowers are factory sway bar lowers with that bracket welded on....the angle is different between the two.

So I'm ok?

Are they tightened up fully?

I got them in today!  I brought the bushings in the house to warm them up, made it slightly easier to get the nut on the bolt.  Thanks!