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What alternator, brackets & pulleys to use?

Started by madmike, February 11, 2011, 10:16:38 AM

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madmike

Yeah, I know, do a search!  I've read a bunch of similar posts, mainly about alternator upgrades, and I'm confused!  My car originally was a '68, 383ci with AC.  The car was a project roller when I bought it, with a supposedly rebuilt 440ci, and a box of parts containing the accessories like an alternator, some brackets, and a power steering pump.  The alternator is junk (I can hear bearing noises in it), and I don't know if it's the correct 383 one or not, but it does have a two groove pulley.  Some of my brackets have 'Ford' stamped in them, so they ain't right...  I have one heavy casting with the Chrysler Pentastar in it, that bolts to the front of the passenger head, but it doesn't seem to line up my alternator to the water pump pulley.  Speaking of pulleys, my crank pulley is a four groove style and my water pump pulley is a two groove.  I think my power steering pump is a TRW style, and it seems to bolt up to my water pump housing OK.

Here's what I want to do:  The car now has a 440, and even though most of the under dash AC components are in place under the dash, I have no plans to use or install AC.  I don't care about 'numbers matching' or 'correct appearance'.  I do want to run an electronic ignition.  I'm using the original wiring harness that 'seems' to be in good shape, and the factory ammeter, which I hope still works...  Basically for now, I'm trying to get the car re-assembled into a running driving car.  It's difficult to perform 'upgrades' when you don't even fully understand what you have...

From what I've read on this forum, it 'sounds' like I basically need a 1970 up style alternator (which has a somewhat better amp output, but the stock ammeter should be able to handle) and will be internally regulated?  This style alternator should also allow me to run an electronic ignition, correct?

As for belts/pulleys, I think one belt is supposed to go around the alternator, water pump, and crank.  The other belt goes around the crank and power steering, correct?  Does anyone have pictures of the froont of their motor, that display proper routing of alternator brackets and pulleys?

I am confused, basically because I just don't know what the parts I have are from... :brickwall:

1969chargerrtse

To start, your in the wrong section.  Probably need to be in engine section. What I did was pull up pictures of 440 engines.  You have a whole world web to locate pictures of engine shots and that will help you along.  I had the same wrong brackets and pulleys as you do and just kept looking under hoods and on the net to figure out which went where or what I needed.  Google image, Moparts etc  and you will find all you need.
This car was sold many years ago to somebody in Wisconsin. I now am retired and living in Florida.

Nacho-RT74

from the begining, if searching an upgrade with correct look, get the best alt you find able to charge at iddle. No need for high amperage at output, simply the best at iddle as posible.

Stock earlier alts are able to source around 20/30 amps at iddle. If you are able to find 50-60 amps at iddle you will be DONE. The most of high output alts with stock look are able to source 40-45 amps at iddle what of course are really good enough too specially againts stock pieces, but on rainny night stopped at trafic light geared, with A/C turned on, and using halogen headlight, these alts will be a little bit outsourced, needing the car to be sourced from batt, but just at iddle... giving gas will recover FAST the power. Not bad anyway, But I'm allways searching for more on stock look ( hard to find on an affordable ratio price )

For a GOOD ENOUGH alt, you can find easy a lates 70s alts able to source up to 80 amps max output, also providing around 45 amps at iddle ( iddling engine between 850 and 900 RPMs ) and cheap enough, between $50-70. These are not EXACTLY to 60s alts look, but pretty much close. Need a light mod, grounding one of the fields to make it work with mechanical reg.

High output alts available on correct look are PowerMaster, TuffStuff, DBelectronics... $100-180 price rate
Stock alts on higher charge rate available are BBB, Beck Arnley, and even local Napa or some other shop are able to give you one. ( remember 78-80 amps on stock form is the one I can advice ) $50-70 rate

Then I advice to you upgrade a little bit the wiring. Make a search around and will find some options.

about brackets... need to search about that. There are many pics of them
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

68coronetGLwannabe

Yearone :

Alternator Brackets should be MR600 or MR602

Pulleys for non A/C MJ102 crank

water pump pulley MJ106

I am pretty sure these are the pulleys and brackets I used on mine.

the front crank pulley grove goes directly to the power steering and the other runs the water pump and alternator.

Post in the wanted section and someone will probably have all the stuff you need.
I pointed to two old drunks sitting across the bar from us and told my friend
"That's us in 10 years".
He said "That's a mirror, dip-shit!

Cooter


" I don't care about 'numbers matching' or 'correct appearance"




Delco 1 Wire. Make own brackets(NOT that hard to do), and never have another dimming headlight problem again. They are available at any auto parts store cheap....
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

1969chargerrtse

Quote from: Nacho-RT74 on February 13, 2011, 10:19:54 AM
from the beginning, if searching an upgrade with correct look, get the best alt you fing able to charge at iddle. No need for high amperage at output, simply the best at iddle as posible.

Stock earlier alts are able to source around 20/30 amps at iddle. If you are able to find 50-60 amps at iddle you will be DONE. The most of high output alts with stock look are able to source 40-45 amps at iddle what of course are really good enough too specially againts stock pieces, but on rainy night stopped at traffic light geared, with A/C turned on, and using halogen headlight, these alts will be a little bit outsourced, needing the car to be sourced from batt, but just at idle... giving gas will recover FAST the power. Not bad anyway, But I'm allways searching for more on stock look ( hard to find on an affordable ratio price )

For a GOOD ENOUGH alt, you can find easy a lates 70s alts able to source up to 80 amps max output, also providing around 45 amps at idle ( idling engine between 850 and 900 RPMs ) and cheap enough, between $50-70. These are not EXACTLY to 60s alts look, but pretty much close. Need a light mod, grounding one of the fields to make it work with mechanical reg.

High output alts available on correct look are PowerMaster, TuffStuff, DBelectronics... $100-180 price rate
Stock alts on higher charge rate available are BBB, Beck Arnley, and even local Napa or some other shop are able to give you one. ( remember 78-80 amps on stock form is the one I can advice ) $50-70 rate

Then I advice to you upgrade a little bit the wiring. Make a search around and will find some options.

about brackets... need to search about that. There are many pics of them
Dude, you are always there to help.  It is so appreciated that you always take the time to explain how these things work.  Thanks.  :2thumbs:
This car was sold many years ago to somebody in Wisconsin. I now am retired and living in Florida.

Nacho-RT74

you're welcome!

BTW those brackets are incorrect for AC setup ( just in case )

On a non AC car, actually any stock 60-78 amps will work fine, better 78 though, but since you don't care alot of correct appearence there are some newer kind what fits on stock locations without mods more than the propper regulator wiring. I'm not in newer alts since I'm allways searching the vintage look, but I know some densos kits. These are the best performance alts around due the winding design ( Delta instead Y ) and in stock of the shelf gereric replacements are available cheap as stated by Cooter from any regular shop.
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Nacho-RT74

I'm drooling with this alt:
http://www.dbelectrical.com/p-5464-new-chrome-mopar-dodge-plymouth-chrysler-alternator-65-83-7509.aspx

and not because chromed, actually preffer cast finish, but for the output specs!!!!

( however RIGHT NOW I can't get it )
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Nacho-RT74

BUMMERS

Actually the 45 amps would be at idle. So if your idle is at 800 to 850 then the most you would get out of this unit is 45 amps at 800 to 850 rpms. We do not have parts for this unit.We buy them as whole units from our distributor so all we have available are whole units.Sorry,

Thanks,

DB ELECTRICAL
5359 KINGSPORT HWY
GRAY TN 37615
www.dbelectrical.com


false spec information... and I was dreaming!!!!
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

68coronetGLwannabe

Quote from: Nacho-RT74 on February 13, 2011, 12:46:23 PM
you're welcome!

BTW those brackets are incorrect for AC setup ( just in case )

On a non AC car, actually any stock 60-78 amps will work fine, better 78 though, but since you don't care alot of correct appearence there are some newer kind what fits on stock locations without mods more than the propper regulator wiring. I'm not in newer alts since I'm allways searching the vintage look, but I know some densos kits. These are the best performance alts around due the winding design ( Delta instead Y ) and in stock of the shelf gereric replacements are available cheap as stated by Cooter from any regular shop.

He said he didn't plan on installing A/C Thats why I suggested those brackets.
I pointed to two old drunks sitting across the bar from us and told my friend
"That's us in 10 years".
He said "That's a mirror, dip-shit!

Nacho-RT74

yes... I read it better after my reply LOL... whatever, just was stating for more info ;D
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

b5blue

  Do a search here for "120 amp Denso". I bought one from Mancini (250 for the kit) after over a year of rooting around endlessly searching. In my topic I show photos of everything and after a year of field testing it "It kicks ass!" no dimming headlights (even high beams too!) or slowing wipers or blower motors even at idle. The stock harness is all retained, no mods, and my AMP gauge is fine as it's not sawing back and forth as the crappy idle output forces the battery to drain then leaps to replace the drain from the battery when RPM's increase amp output.  :2thumbs:    Yea I'll do a harness and relay deal like Nacho's outlined to distribute power better and add a 2nd feed to the main power splice in the dash but after many years of dealing with this crap it's just so nice to everything working as it should I have to pipe in here with my 2 cents. You on a 68 would need a solid state regulator. I don't like one wire alts, they run all power through the battery and that is fine for a car that was engineered for it, B body's are not.   :Twocents:

Roger 68 charger

I did a 120 amp Denso search and it came up  "no results"  ??
68 charger RT 505"
70 cuda
99 Durango

green69rt

go to mancini racing and THEN do a search on "120 amp denso".  I found it there.

madmike

Fellas, thanks for all the great responses, I appreciate it!

I have been researching old posts on this subject, and I think I figured out what to do, so I did order pulleys and brackets from Mancini Racing.  For now, I'm just trying to get this car back together, using as many of the parts that it came with (mostly stock stuff).  I'm not ready to any major 'upgrades' at this time, and I'm unwilling to dump a bunch more money into it, until I find out if the supposedly 'rebuilt' engine that it came with even runs or not...!

Nacho, I think using an early 70's alternator, with some of the minor wiring upgrades per some of your other posts is what I'll go for now.

Thanks again fellas!

Nacho-RT74

I'm being the Guinea pig with this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180622090396&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT

I have allways advice to try it... nobody as far I know did it. Quick Start crew told me they didn't have available this or the 105 amps kit, so, I'll get and let you know. Couldn't let it go at that price to be a guinea pig. If I get same result with this mounted on my old alt, than with the 78 amps Beck Arnley unit I actually have with laters 70s look, at least will get back now the correct year look, will get better fitment, and will keep the BeckArnley as spare.

laters look alts are hard to fit... very small clearence for those
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

b5blue

Good find Nacho! Good Luck I hope it works!  :2thumbs:  madmike, if you want to see my Denso install just "search" "120 Denso" from the home page it comes right up.