indy vs eddy

[68chargerboy]

i know this has been talked about time and time again but cant find info on my type of build setup.  i am deffinately on a budget so cheaper is better but i would rather save up a bit if i absolutley had to spend more.  heres my build:
its a 440 stroked to a 505, twin turbos, plan on running 10 psi the eventually uping to 15+. 

i already have 1.6 ratio rocker arms so that puts my cam specs to 593 intake and 615 exhaust lift.

turbos are small so this is not going to be a high rev motor

car usage:
less then 500 street miles a year
plan to race ever other weekend minimum
dont care about driveability too much (but i dont think my question really pertains to this)

if theres any other info needed please let me know

thanks in advance!

Zach

[Rolling_Thunder]

uhhhh    may have missed it but what part are you looking for ?  heads ?  intake ? ....?

[Challenger340]

With a wider lobe seperation Camshaft, ie 110-112-114, which is far better for power with boosted applications when scavenging is NOT req'd, IMO, the Eddy's will work just Dandy @ 10psi for the lower rpm's with a minor cleanup, and the Money savings is better directed elsewhere in the build(mains).

I assume here from your post, that the "505" is probably a 440source 7.100" Rod length Assembly ?

10lbs will work very well, but I dunno when a Guy starts travelling up to 15 lbs boost ?

IMO,
When contemplating 15lbs plus boost applications, some serious consideration needs to be directed towards Block Main Cap Integrity, if using a "Stock Block"' ?
and,
Cylinder Wall Thickness,
both of which, are best addressed at the outset, with the purchase of an Aftermarket Block($4500), or Billet Main Caps on the Stock Block as a bandaid(Stock Block).
THEN,
Go for the INDY's, BIG Boost, and let it Rock !

BEST Turbo Camshaft applications for BEST power, apply more duration @ .050 to the INTAKE profile, with a slightly SMALLER Exhaust Duration, to maintain as high as possible exhaust VELOCITY(pressure), which DRIVES the Turbos for Boost.
The above,
is the biggest difference in Camshafts, between Turbos and "Mechanically", Driven Superchargers which like more EXHAUST Duration to get it out period !

IMO, I think the biggest reason these types of builds are not discussed here more often, is because BB Mopars can VERY QUICKLY exceed what the Stock Block can handle safely over time ?

Don't intend to bum you out, just be careful ?
On the plus side, Turbos are a far easier power curve on the Block, than Blowers.

[firefighter3931]

 

For a boosted application an aftermarket block is your only (real) option. An iron World block is under $3K and by the time you beef up the stock piece you'll be almost there cost wize and still won't have as strong a block....not by a long shot. 


Ron

[Challenger340]

For a boosted application an aftermarket block is your only (real) option. An iron World block is under $3K and by the time you beef up the stock piece you'll be almost there cost wize and still won't have as strong a block....not by a long shot.  


Ron

Hey Ron,
I'm a little off topic here, just a heads up, and pass it along
I've had a few World Blocks here, delivered WITH very cheap quality Main Studs, I suspect offshore because of the way they "SNAPPED" in half when being Torqued !
You can recognize the cheap studs because, although the nuts have "ARP" on them, the Studs the ARP nuts are on, DO NOT !
When I spoke on the phone with World products about this,
well,
I was NOT very satisfied with the answer ?

I then CONFIRMED with ARP on the phone, that indeed their studs say ARP on the end. They also aren't too thrilled with their ARP Nuts being mated to crap studs, but not much they can do about it ?
Don't get fooled, look for ARP on BOTH Nuts and the STUDS !

Just an area to CHECK, when using the World Blocks, IMO, you do NOT want those studs in an Engine !

[68chargerboy]

thanks for the replys guys.  yes i am looking for a proper head choice. 

my lsa on my cam is 114, the cam is a turbo cam so i should have all the right specs on that

the block is very stout and i should not have many problems especially with it being a turbo motor. 

yes the stroker kit is 7.100 rods from 440 source

challenger 340 - so what your saying is that if i plan to stay around 10psi stick to the eddys, but if i plan to go 15+ i should go with the indys? should i go with the EZ-1's if i plan to go the indy route to have the max wedge ports?

thanks again guys!

Zach

[Challenger340]

Need to know your "Turbo Cam" specs ? 114 is usually fine, depending,
however,
what is the duration @ .050" events ?
Is it LARGER Duration at .050 on the INTAKE side ? Than the EXHAUST duration, or NOT ?
The above is very important in selecting the exhaust port, in a specific Cylinder Head, for "best" Drive of the Turbo to produce Boost.
It will also give us some idea of the Camshafts rpm capability, another important factor to Head selection(Intake & Exhaust Ratio)

here's the Skinny; TURBO and SUPERCHARGER Cams are different.

SUPERCHARGER Cams, simply apply LARGER profiles on the EXHAUST side to get it out, period.
however,
TURBO Camshafts, apply more saavy to the EXHAUST Profile(smaller), and positioning relative to the INTAKE profile, to produce maximum Velocity to "drive" the Turbo which creates the Boost.

I give up, for 6,000 rpm 505/512 @ 15lbs boost
Go BUY an INDY "SR" Head if it's still offered, with the standard Intake port, and "Raised" Exhaust Port which places the Exhaust port 3/4" higher. same Head as the "EZ" just better exhaust side.

[68chargerboy]

this is what it says on the box

adv dur:280 int 262 exh
dur @ .050: 251 int 262 exh

[Wicked72]

For block strength I doing caps, girdle, and a partial block fill of cement. Shouldnt have any cooling issues just keep those oil temps down. I am going with a blower on mainly street car. It adds $$$ but will help keep it all together. Im also getting the block sonic tested for piece of mind. I am having my machining and filling done at musclemotors.com they know their stuff and the prices are very reasonable compared to most places. btw my mill will be about 800+hp which is why I am looking to take every step to keep the engine in one piece. so if they suggest more Ill havem do it.