how did you guys clean in here?

[bobfist]

how did you guys clean in here?
I will sandblast the whole car but how to do here?

[68X426]

Steel wire brush as best as can and then vacuum.

[bobfist]

hmm yes the car aint rusty on some other place so i dont know if i should cut it open...
I dont know any thing about the Eastwood rust encapulator .....i dont know if i spelled it right....
Someone tryed it?

[BigBlockSam]

i would clean it the best you can . then use eastwood's rust converter . let dry overnight then eastwood's rust encapsulator . done. 

[bobfist]

ok ill try, i think it never gonna rust again then

[268RTs4ME]

Blast it, vacumn it, then the converter.

[bobfist]

Removed all paint today, left rear fender was great but right one....tons of filler why not just use tin filler instead?

[Cooter]

Because the plastic body fillers of today do NOT like to adhere to the Lead/tin filler of yesterday...Leading is old skool...

Sure, it'll look great for a while with filler over lead, but given enough time, that lead will react with the filler...

[bobfist]

Thats the most strange thing i ever heard. Plastic filler cant never be better than tin. Mabey it works in hot ca but not in europe. Sounds like we use diffrent tin, we dont need plastic over that

[bobfist]

I need to change the right hand rear fender and wonder witch repro fender i can use
I want the upper part of the fender as well (part that fuel lock are) As the picture shows on picture in my last post (picture above this)
Any suggestions???

[Troy]

You only have 2 choices: AMD or Classic Body Designs. AMD is cheaper and haven't heard any complaints but the CBD is supposedly made from better steel (and USA made as you'll hear 100 times whenever you talk to anyone about them) and I've heard great reviews about them. I've seen both sets in person but haven't tried fitting either up to a car.

Troy

[TylerCharger69]

Sherman and associates as well   seem to be a bit cheaper....And I've heard that at least the e-body panels have no issues...not sure about b bodies though  but im soon to find out

[suntech]

With front fenders you have just one option....AMD 

[bobfist]

thanks! I got new trunk, rear fender and left hand front inner fender. They had it here in Sweden

[bobfist]

Any idees how to open this up to sandblast inside it?

[Pentastarpackrat]

Media blasting in areas like this that you can access makes sense to me when there are signs of corrosion that need to be addressed. Be careful however, blasting areas that have remained well protected all these years, you may be better off leaving them alone.

I wouldn't worry about trying to clean inside that area where you can't reach (below the speaker shelf / package tray). It's been more than 40 years now and all you usually find on any of these cars is surface rust. They were never really primed well and didn't get painted at all in these hard to reach areas. Remove as much loose rust as possible, blow it out, and use a rust neutralizer like POR15 to stop and seal the area. If you plan to paint the area along with the rest of the car, you can paint over most of these products. Areas blasted clean are better protected using an etching primer, then an epoxy sealer. Rust neutralizers are designed to paint over rust (POR).

Just my 2 cents but if you're only going to blast and coat the trunk extensions without pulling those apart, you'd be crazy to try an separate welds under your package tray to make that look pretty. The reality is there are lots of areas like this all over the car. Without dipping the body, you'll never get to them all.

[BigBlockSam]

rust converter- prime and paint   

[bobfist]

IM decided to replace all the parts at the rear end on my Charger just to get rid of all rust between all parts.

I got new deck filler, rear valance , tail panel, new gutters

[NMike]

cut all the crap metal off, then blast. alot easier that way.

[bobfist]

Yes i know, but we want to make it a little better than from factory

[suntech]

I´d say it is a candidate for new quarters too

[Pentastarpackrat]

Without wanting to start a great debate on what constitutes a restoration and how much of this members car needs to be replaced, I'll say this. The tail panel, gutters, and even the rear valance look pretty solid from the pics. The quarter panels looked like swiss cheese and I assume the trunk floor as well; they need to be replaced.

If you replace almost everything but the VIN codes, is it really a restoration.....or a kit car. After watching what Chop Cut Rebuild did to that '69 Hemi car on Speed Channel, I had a hard time accepting it as a 'restoration'. The fact that they modified it so heavily aside, the only thing they really retained was the firewall, pillars, and door jambs. Even the VINS had to be grafted into the new metal. Don't get me wrong, it's a sweet car, but don't tell me it's the rare 1 of 1 Hemi car they're campaigning it to be.....perhaps it was before they started.

Back on topic, figure out what you want your Charger to be when you're done, realistically and according to your own budget. Then build it that way, try not to get carried away, unless that's what you planned for. Hopefully some of you agree......for those who don't, take it easy on me.    

[bobfist]

Hi!
I can understand all of you guys that think im crazy that replace all that metal.
The thing is that all cars we restore we want to be totally clean between all dual steel and inside parts.
Thats they way we work...
All those sealed point welded parts at the rear end has a little rust between them and we want to have it clean, thats why.

This is what we constructed today...body on rails...before sandblasting

[bobfist]

HI!
Began to sandblasting the car today...a lot more to sand...