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Inline Tube . . . what a bummer

Started by terrible one, January 25, 2011, 04:03:03 PM

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bobs66440

Unfortunately, working on these cars usually involves boat loads of frustration. Been there so many times. Hopefully they will do the right thing.

terrible one

Well, I just got a box from Inline Tube. I have to admit, that was pretty fast service. Inside I find my cable has been repaired and it looks like they did a better job this time but we will see. The piece on the end was crimped double this time and is actually a bit deformed this time, so hopefully it'll hold. They also sent me a new distribution block, so I figure it WAS the block and not me doing something wrong, which makes me feel better. I called anyways and made sure that all I had to do was bolt this thing up and follow regular bleeding procedure and the guy said yes, so maybe by the end of today I will have fully operational brakes and can drive again.

Does that sound right? Does anyone have anything that I should keep in mind to make sure the valve stays centered when installing and bleeding?

Steve P.

Hey buddy. I just read your thread and can only add one thing to the mix. I like to gravity bleed brakes. This means putting it all together and filling the master, (AFTER BENCH BLEEDING), and letting nature take it's course. I have dealt with more than my share of stuck prop. valves in my time and I can tell you they are a major PITA sometimes.

My procedure for all new brakes:

1) have all parts in hand and make sure everything has correct fittings.

2) Mount all lines loosely.

3) Bench bleed the master. (I like to leave the master in the vise for a few minutes after "no bubbles" and give it a few more 3/4 shots.

4) I usually open lines before the prop valve to see that I have flow. (This is something I was thinking for your case while reading). Once I see flow BEFORE the valve I tighten the fittings on the incoming and open the out going fittings again looking at flow. Once flow begins tighten fittings.

CHECK FLUID LEVEL OF MASTER........

5) open lines before wheel cylinders and or calipers again watching flow. Tighten when flow is seen.

6) Open bleeders and watch for fluid starting with Right rear, left rear, right front, left front.


I bleed the lines from the first point to the next for a few reasons.

1) I WANT to see fluid flow.

2) I like to use the brake fluid to remove any contaminants.




Steve P.
Holiday, Florida

terrible one

Thanks Steve  :cheers: I took your advice and read more about gravity bleeding on the 'net and thought that sounded great. That first block had me paranoid so I figured that was the best idea. It took forever but I finally got a few drops of fluid coming out of the rear bleeders! What a great thing that was. I started to bleed to system and found that this new block was leaking where the brake warning switch is. After tightening that up, I was able to go ahead and bleed out the system. Everything worked great, so I'm very happy to report that my car has brakes again!

Later tonight or tomorrow I will re-install the parking brake cable and be ready to take it out tomorrow for the nice 40* weather  :coolgleamA:

Steve P.

Sounds great!!!  Things are looking up.....    ;)
Steve P.
Holiday, Florida

Charger-Bodie

I got my cable back from Georges Brake cable todat. Looks like he did a good job on it. The climp definately looks tighter than what it had before. I will try to reinstall tommorow and see if I can actually set the brake without it coming apart.
68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

bobs66440

Quote from: terrible one on February 04, 2011, 08:46:56 PM
Thanks Steve  :cheers: I took your advice and read more about gravity bleeding on the 'net and thought that sounded great. That first block had me paranoid so I figured that was the best idea. It took forever but I finally got a few drops of fluid coming out of the rear bleeders! What a great thing that was. I started to bleed to system and found that this new block was leaking where the brake warning switch is. After tightening that up, I was able to go ahead and bleed out the system. Everything worked great, so I'm very happy to report that my car has brakes again!

Later tonight or tomorrow I will re-install the parking brake cable and be ready to take it out tomorrow for the nice 40* weather  :coolgleamA:
Glad to hear it worked out!  :2thumbs:

terrible one

Quote from: bobs66440 on February 09, 2011, 08:40:06 PM
Quote from: terrible one on February 04, 2011, 08:46:56 PM
Thanks Steve  :cheers: I took your advice and read more about gravity bleeding on the 'net and thought that sounded great. That first block had me paranoid so I figured that was the best idea. It took forever but I finally got a few drops of fluid coming out of the rear bleeders! What a great thing that was. I started to bleed to system and found that this new block was leaking where the brake warning switch is. After tightening that up, I was able to go ahead and bleed out the system. Everything worked great, so I'm very happy to report that my car has brakes again!

Later tonight or tomorrow I will re-install the parking brake cable and be ready to take it out tomorrow for the nice 40* weather  :coolgleamA:
Glad to hear it worked out!  :2thumbs:

Thanks! We will see on the cable but it seems to be holding up this time. I've set the parking brake a couple of times and though I cringed as it went down it didn't pop this time. Now that I've got the leaks chased down on the new block, the rest of the braking system is good to go as well.  :coolgleamA: It sure feels good to have that done!