Inline Tube . . . what a bummer

[terrible one]

The only two things that I bought from them failed.  

First, the parking brake cable set. Get it good to go and installed, went surprisingly well and I was happy. But then, the FIRST time I went to depress the parking brake pedal, I hear a pop and it goes to the floor. WTF?! Well, come to find out, the piece on the end of the cable just slid right off of there! WTF?!



A couple of days afterward, when I decide to bleed the brakes, the new distribution block didn't work either. Now I can't say I didn't forsure do something wrong, but I don't see how I could. I took the thing out of the package, bolted it to the frame, hooked up all the lines after bleeding my master cylinder, and now it's time to bleed the system. Well, starting at the right rear wheel, I couldn't get shit. Not a drop of fluid. Same thing on the other side. Couldn't get fluid for anything. So I went ahead and did the fronts, which bled out perfectly and left me with a rock solid pedal. So, it seems the distribution block just won't let any fluid to the rear brakes. Nothing at all.

So, I say this to inline tube after we go through the routine with the parking brake cable, and they tell me that I need to "reset" the switch by using a check light for the brake fail switch, opening the bleeder valves on the front brakes, depressing the pedal, closing the bleeders, and repeating the procedure until the check light goes off. I said this sounded exactly like bleeding the brakes and I don't see how it would fix it, and the guy seriously said the difference was the test light!!! WTF?! Seriously, the only difference with this "procedure" is that I am opening both front bleeders at once and need 3 people instead of 2. I told him I didn't see how it would correct it and he didn't really have an answer and said that I could send it back but if they checked it and it was good I would have to pay return shipping. I said WTF?! Why can't you just put it in the box with the cable that FAILED when you send it back and not charge me for shipping? Isn't the damn thing supposed to work out of the box anyways?

Well I guess that's enough of a rant to read but my conclusion is SHITTY products and SHITTY customer service. 2 out of 2 things I got from them BROKE/ FAILED!!! It's such a dissapointment dealing with this company after someone like Firm Feel who actually gives a shit about their customers and the impression their product and service makes on them.  

The one question I have is this: did the procedure the guy outlined for "resetting" the block sound familiar to anyone?

[bobs66440]

Sorry to hear of your bad experience. I've only dealt with them once (complete brake line kit) and it went okay.

If you have a rock hard pedal after bleeding only the fronts it seems it can only be the stuck valve or the lines are mixed up on the block somehow (not accusing). Or there's no fluid getting from the rear supplying reservior in the master cylinder to the block.

If the distribution block has a shuttle valve in it (like most modern ones do) it sounds like it's stuck to the rear side (only letting fluid to the front) and what he is hoping to accomplish is when you open the front bleeders, the valve is supposed to sense low pressure and is supposed to move to shut off the front and send pressure to the rear. The difference being that you have both front bleeders open (as opposed to one) creating really low pressure to coax the valve into moving. From what I understand, that valve is supposed to be self-centering as long as there's pressure coming from both front and rear reserviors.The purpose of putting the test light on the switch is to tell when the valve is centered in the block (normal)... apparently the test light will go off when it's centered.  That switch would normally light a warning light in the dash when the shuttle moves one way or the other. The test light is being substituted for the warning light.

[terrible one]

Sorry to hear of your bad experience. I've only dealt with them once (complete brake line kit) and it went okay.

If you have a rock hard pedal after bleeding only the fronts it seems it can only be the stuck valve or the lines are mixed up on the block somehow (not accusing). Or there's no fluid getting from the rear supplying reservior in the master cylinder to the block.

If the distribution block has a shuttle valve in it (like most modern ones do) it sounds like it's stuck to the rear side (only letting fluid to the front) and what he is hoping to accomplish is when you open the front bleeders, the valve is supposed to sense low pressure and is supposed to move to shut off the front and send pressure to the rear. The purpose of putting the test light on the switch is to tell when the valve is centered in the block (normal)... apparently the test light will go off when it's centered (from what I understand, that valve is supposed to be self centering as long as there's pressure coming from both front and rear reserviors). That switch would normally light a warning light in the dash when the shuttle moves one way or the other.

Thanks for the reply! Yeah, the guy I spoke to said something about the valve being stuck closed on the rear. I would say the lines could be mixed but I called them before I put the thing in and had them go over which lines went where, etc. It is also pretty obvious once it's bolted to the frame rail. The master cylinder did fine during bench bleeding and pushed fluid out of both reservoirs. It is brand new as well.

So, I guess it's almost definitely the valve in the block. I appreciate the explanation you gave for centering the valve. You make it make sense lol! So I guess I will try that method tomorrow when I go out to remove the parking brake cable. If it works, great. If not, I'll throw the block in the box with the cable.

[Cooter]

Just FYI here, but I've had people come in the shop with their brake wheels cylinders completely blown, been leaking for months, and once that valve "Sticks" in one position or another, I've had to kinda "Stab" the brake pedal to "Shift" it back ot floating again..This shouldn't be the case with "New" parts, but then again, there's no telling how long it sat on a shelf, or where it was made..

[terrible one]

Just FYI here, but I've had people come in the shop with their brake wheels cylinders completely blown, been leaking for months, and once that valve "Sticks" in one position or another, I've had to kinda "Stab" the brake pedal to "Shift" it back ot floating again..This shouldn't be the case with "New" parts, but then again, there's no telling how long it sat on a shelf, or where it was made..

Thanks for the tip Cooter Tomorrow when I go out to remove the parking brake cable housing I'll have to give it a try and will remember that. Now I just need to find someone else since both front bleeders need to be opened and closed  

If I can get it working this sure will suck a lot less  

I still can't believe the thing came off the end of the cable though. I barely got it 3 clicks! Now I'll feel like it's fragile 

[Cooter]

You just bought cheap, knock off parts...Get a good cable and it should be ok...Looks like that end was just crimped...This is the way it is when we see One part listed for $50.00 and what "Appears" to be the exact same part listed elsewhere for $19.95...For whatever reason, we go for that cheaper part anyway..Almost knowing it will fail, but we roll the dice hoping against hope it won't...

[bobs66440]

I still can't believe the thing came off the end of the cable though.

Those metal ends are just crimped on the cable I think. If they don't do it right it will come right off (as you know ) I think if it was crimped tight it would have mangled the strands a little at least, but they look untouched.

[terrible one]

Yep Cooter you're exactly right lol! But I really did think Inline Tube was quality enough, shows what I know.

As far as the end though, yeah it definitely wasn't crimped tight enough. The cable isn't deformed at all.   Maybe I should put a nice little bead of weld on the end of it when I get it back?

[bobs66440]

You just bought cheap, knock off parts...Get a good cable and it should be ok...Looks like that end was just crimped...This is the way it is when we see One part listed for $50.00 and what "Appears" to be the exact same part listed elsewhere for $19.95...For whatever reason, we go for that cheaper part anyway..Almost knowing it will fail, but we roll the dice hoping against hope it won't...

I bought one from a guy at Carlisle and it was expensive (or so I thought at the time...$65. +-)  but it was hand made by a guy who obviously cared. I thought I over-paid, but judging by your experience I guess it was worth it....I'll try to find his name...

[71green go]

Hmm, I have bought many parts from Inline Tube as my buddies friend owns the place......all I have ever gotten has been great fit and no failures....but I guess with the volume they sell there may be some bad parts sold.....but I am surprised thier company service was so bad...I will pass that on to wes.
Steve

[terrible one]

Hmm, I have bought many parts from Inline Tube as my buddies friend owns the place......all I have ever gotten has been great fit and no failures....but I guess with the volume they sell there may be some bad parts sold.....but I am surprised thier company service was so bad...I will pass that on to wes.
Steve

Please do! Hopefully the "resetting" procedure will fix the block but the end coming off of the cable on the FIRST depression of the pedal is just BAD QUALITY and either way I'm out the shipping charges to send it back when I wouldn't have to if it wasn't a sub par product.

[Charger-Bodie]

Hmm, I have bought many parts from Inline Tube as my buddies friend owns the place......all I have ever gotten has been great fit and no failures....but I guess with the volume they sell there may be some bad parts sold.....but I am surprised thier company service was so bad...I will pass that on to wes.
Steve

Please do! Hopefully the "resetting" procedure will fix the block but the end coming off of the cable on the FIRST depression of the pedal is just BAD QUALITY and either way I'm out the shipping charges to send it back when I wouldn't have to if it wasn't a sub par product.

Im on my third Inline one in my Daytona clone. I dont care that I will be paying more for the next one. Hopefully it will be the last.

First one was the wrong length. Next two did the same thing yours did. Its definitaly not a freak deal. Its a problem that they need to take care of. Mine is a 4 speed and I have zero piece of mind that I can leave it running and walk away from it.

[terrible one]

Hmm, I have bought many parts from Inline Tube as my buddies friend owns the place......all I have ever gotten has been great fit and no failures....but I guess with the volume they sell there may be some bad parts sold.....but I am surprised thier company service was so bad...I will pass that on to wes.
Steve

Please do! Hopefully the "resetting" procedure will fix the block but the end coming off of the cable on the FIRST depression of the pedal is just BAD QUALITY and either way I'm out the shipping charges to send it back when I wouldn't have to if it wasn't a sub par product.

Im on my third Inline one in my Daytona clone. I dont care that I will be paying more for the next one. Hopefully it will be the last.

First one was the wrong length. Next two did the same thing yours did. Its definitaly not a freak deal. Its a problem that they need to take care of. Mine is a 4 speed and I have zero piece of mind that I can leave it running and walk away from it.

I really hate to hear that, for both you and me lol! I don't want to have to treat my parking brake like it's fragile!   I guess I will refuse to do so, and the next time it happens I'll ask for a refund. OR maybe just weld it up.

bobs66440, guess it really would be good to get the contact info from the other guy!

Brian, where will you be getting your next one from?

[The70RT]

My distribution block from them leaks...found out two years after install and car has never moved and is still under resto.  I used silicone fluid maybe I shouldn't have   On the cable end can't you just put a tack weld on it...not that you should have to though. I remebber brazing one moons ago and it held up.

[Cooter]

This is just MY opinion and nothing more but, It has become Painfully obvious to ME that these companies should be looking into these types of forums in order to get a gauge of who and what type of customers they are trying to sell to...It is MY belief that these companies should STOP buying from the cheapest, imported dealer to RE SELL at a markup, when it won't be their SUPPLIER that gets the bad rep, it will be THEM..the RE SELLER...


If you are a company and are indeed paying a quality, Tax paying, American citizen, to build your parts then you should reallize that you don't nessesarily need to go to an offshore supplier to "Make money"... The people you are targeting should be willing to pay a fair price for something that isn't gonna break in the first two uses of it...I know I wouldn't mind (And I'm a cheap bastid), paying a little more for quality part than having to pay more in time down, shipping charges, etc. when I have to go through 15 of your "Sub par" parts...

How many here would gladly pay $65.00 for what Terrible used? Rather than pay the $25.00-$35.00 he Probably paid to have it break?
The problem comes in when instead of charging the $65.00 for that quality part, the charge seems to get into the $95.00 range..Afterall, how can you put a price on quality? right? This is where the greed comes in, and the cheaper parts get sold REGUARDLESS of how many times they are replaced...

[bobs66440]

Okay, I got the info:

George's Brake Cables
Lebanon, PA
717-273-9502
717-598-7874
brakecables1@pa.net

I would send yours back for a refund and contact this guy.

BTW, I don't think you can tack weld the end on as it's probably stainless cable and the end is probably mild steel or something else. 

[elacruze]

A possible fix and easy enough for one person is to remove one rear bleeder screw and use a rubber-tipped air nozzle to pressurize the rear system. Hopefully that will blow the valve back where it belongs.

Be sure that you have the lid on the master cylinder in case the air finds it's way up there.

[71green go]

I have copied this thread and sent it my friend wes, and asked him to pass on to his buddy who owns Inline Tube.......we will see what happens..........but yes I also believe they should be monitoring all forums to see what is being said about their products......
Thanks guys
Steve

[Charger-Bodie]

Okay, I got the info:

George's Brake Cables
Lebanon, PA
717-273-9502
717-598-7874
brakecables1@pa.net

I would send yours back for a refund and contact this guy.

BTW, I don't think you can tack weld the end on as it's probably stainless cable and the end is probably mild steel or something else. 

Thanks for this info. I called this Guy up today,He is going to fix me up.

[terrible one]

Okay, I got the info:

George's Brake Cables
Lebanon, PA
717-273-9502
717-598-7874
brakecables1@pa.net

I would send yours back for a refund and contact this guy.

BTW, I don't think you can tack weld the end on as it's probably stainless cable and the end is probably mild steel or something else. 

Thanks for this info. I called this Guy up today,He is going to fix me up.

Yes, thank you! If this happens again I'll be going this route as well. 

[bobs66440]

Okay, I got the info:

George's Brake Cables
Lebanon, PA
717-273-9502
717-598-7874
brakecables1@pa.net

I would send yours back for a refund and contact this guy.

BTW, I don't think you can tack weld the end on as it's probably stainless cable and the end is probably mild steel or something else. 

Thanks for this info. I called this Guy up today,He is going to fix me up.

Yes, thank you! If this happens again I'll be going this route as well. 

My pleasure! 

[terrible one]

I have copied this thread and sent it my friend wes, and asked him to pass on to his buddy who owns Inline Tube.......we will see what happens..........but yes I also believe they should be monitoring all forums to see what is being said about their products......
Thanks guys
Steve

Sounds good! Please keep us updated. I would really like to hear what the owner has to say, if anything. Especially knowing that it's not just mine that failed.

[charger2fast4u]

Okay, I got the info:

George's Brake Cables
Lebanon, PA
717-273-9502
717-598-7874
brakecables1@pa.net

I would send yours back for a refund and contact this guy.

BTW, I don't think you can tack weld the end on as it's probably stainless cable and the end is probably mild steel or something else. 

Thanks for this info. I called this Guy up today,He is going to fix me up.

let us know how you make out if you are satisfied i may be purchaseing from him as well i'm located in PA so i may be able to run to his shop or meeta at carlisle if he will be there this year

[bobs66440]

Okay, I got the info:

George's Brake Cables
Lebanon, PA
717-273-9502
717-598-7874
brakecables1@pa.net

I would send yours back for a refund and contact this guy.

BTW, I don't think you can tack weld the end on as it's probably stainless cable and the end is probably mild steel or something else. 

Thanks for this info. I called this Guy up today,He is going to fix me up.

let us know how you make out if you are satisfied i may be purchaseing from him as well i'm located in PA so i may be able to run to his shop or meeta at carlisle if he will be there this year

For what it's worth, the one I got from him fit perfectly and is currently working very well.

[terrible one]

I guess I shouldn't have gotten my hopes up about getting this block to reset or whatever.  I got what was left of the parking brake cable out and went on to try and "reset" the block but just couldn't get it. Went through the process of opening both front bleeders, stabbing the brake pedal, closing them. Never could get the test light to go off. Never got a drop of fluid to the rears. Tried over and over and over until I was good and frustrated all over again. So I took the block off and tossed it in the box with the brake cable. We'll see what they say about it.

[bobs66440]

Unfortunately, working on these cars usually involves boat loads of frustration. Been there so many times. Hopefully they will do the right thing.

[terrible one]

Well, I just got a box from Inline Tube. I have to admit, that was pretty fast service. Inside I find my cable has been repaired and it looks like they did a better job this time but we will see. The piece on the end was crimped double this time and is actually a bit deformed this time, so hopefully it'll hold. They also sent me a new distribution block, so I figure it WAS the block and not me doing something wrong, which makes me feel better. I called anyways and made sure that all I had to do was bolt this thing up and follow regular bleeding procedure and the guy said yes, so maybe by the end of today I will have fully operational brakes and can drive again.

Does that sound right? Does anyone have anything that I should keep in mind to make sure the valve stays centered when installing and bleeding?

[Steve P.]

Hey buddy. I just read your thread and can only add one thing to the mix. I like to gravity bleed brakes. This means putting it all together and filling the master, (AFTER BENCH BLEEDING), and letting nature take it's course. I have dealt with more than my share of stuck prop. valves in my time and I can tell you they are a major PITA sometimes.

My procedure for all new brakes:

1) have all parts in hand and make sure everything has correct fittings.

2) Mount all lines loosely.

3) Bench bleed the master. (I like to leave the master in the vise for a few minutes after "no bubbles" and give it a few more 3/4 shots.

4) I usually open lines before the prop valve to see that I have flow. (This is something I was thinking for your case while reading). Once I see flow BEFORE the valve I tighten the fittings on the incoming and open the out going fittings again looking at flow. Once flow begins tighten fittings.

CHECK FLUID LEVEL OF MASTER........

5) open lines before wheel cylinders and or calipers again watching flow. Tighten when flow is seen.

6) Open bleeders and watch for fluid starting with Right rear, left rear, right front, left front.


I bleed the lines from the first point to the next for a few reasons.

1) I WANT to see fluid flow.

2) I like to use the brake fluid to remove any contaminants.

[terrible one]

Thanks Steve  I took your advice and read more about gravity bleeding on the 'net and thought that sounded great. That first block had me paranoid so I figured that was the best idea. It took forever but I finally got a few drops of fluid coming out of the rear bleeders! What a great thing that was. I started to bleed to system and found that this new block was leaking where the brake warning switch is. After tightening that up, I was able to go ahead and bleed out the system. Everything worked great, so I'm very happy to report that my car has brakes again!

Later tonight or tomorrow I will re-install the parking brake cable and be ready to take it out tomorrow for the nice 40* weather 

[Steve P.]

Sounds great!!!  Things are looking up.....   

[Charger-Bodie]

I got my cable back from Georges Brake cable todat. Looks like he did a good job on it. The climp definately looks tighter than what it had before. I will try to reinstall tommorow and see if I can actually set the brake without it coming apart.

[bobs66440]

Thanks Steve  I took your advice and read more about gravity bleeding on the 'net and thought that sounded great. That first block had me paranoid so I figured that was the best idea. It took forever but I finally got a few drops of fluid coming out of the rear bleeders! What a great thing that was. I started to bleed to system and found that this new block was leaking where the brake warning switch is. After tightening that up, I was able to go ahead and bleed out the system. Everything worked great, so I'm very happy to report that my car has brakes again!

Later tonight or tomorrow I will re-install the parking brake cable and be ready to take it out tomorrow for the nice 40* weather 

Glad to hear it worked out! 

[terrible one]

Thanks Steve   I took your advice and read more about gravity bleeding on the 'net and thought that sounded great. That first block had me paranoid so I figured that was the best idea. It took forever but I finally got a few drops of fluid coming out of the rear bleeders! What a great thing that was. I started to bleed to system and found that this new block was leaking where the brake warning switch is. After tightening that up, I was able to go ahead and bleed out the system. Everything worked great, so I'm very happy to report that my car has brakes again!

Later tonight or tomorrow I will re-install the parking brake cable and be ready to take it out tomorrow for the nice 40* weather  

Glad to hear it worked out!  

Thanks! We will see on the cable but it seems to be holding up this time. I've set the parking brake a couple of times and though I cringed as it went down it didn't pop this time. Now that I've got the leaks chased down on the new block, the rest of the braking system is good to go as well.   It sure feels good to have that done!