Help Me With A CAM Question

[jasonjb75]

I'm in the process of tearing down my 383 HP in my '69 Charger.  I think I have most of the items selected for the build but I can't make my mind up on the cam.  This is my first engine build so I was hoping the guys that know a lot more on here could lend me some advice.  The lower end will more than likely remain stock except for balancing the polishing.  I'm not sure of the condition of the block as far as what maching work will be needed.  If it is okay I only hope to go 30 over.

So far I selected Mancini Shortblock Power Pak which includes:

Sealed Power cast pistons
Speed Pro moly rings
Clevite cam/rod/main bearings
Fel-Pro gasket set
Melling oil pump
Pioneer brass freeze plugs

I'm also considering using Eagle ESP connecting rods or is this overkill for a basic street rebuild?  Is it worth it to use the stock rods.

I am also looking at the Edelbrock Power Package Kit which includes:

Performer RPM intake
Performer RPM heads
Cam and Lifters (7194)
Timing chain
head bolt kit
intake bolt kit
and Gasket set

Now my biggest question is going with the the Edelbrock cam 7194 that is in the package listed above or the cam Mopar Muscle used in the 383 resto to rad rebuild which was a Comp Cam  Xtreme Energy cam 21-228-4.

Any help you can give would be greatly appreciated.  Like I said this is the first time I am attempting this and I am eager to workk on this project!

Thanks again

[Challenger340]

IMO
I would strongly suggest, that you should re-evaluate your Piston selection, BEFORE you look into Camshafts ?

The Sealed Power stock cast pistons are VERY Low Compression in the real world(non advertised), and require careful Block Milling/Blueprinting to deliver any real performance potential with the Aluminum Heads.
I know,
I've had to Mill the crap outa 383 Blocks before when using them, don't you do it !

I would suggest better Money spent at the outset of your project, (given the Block Milling/Machining costs associated), to get better Pistons with Higher Compression ratio for the "Aluminum" Heads.
Remember,
Aluminum dissapates the heat of combustion MUCH quicker than Iron, therefore, 1 full point increase of C.R. is Rec'd above a comparable Iron Head.
10:1 C.R. would be ideal.

Try these as a "minimum", may even still require some Milling, but far better ?
http://www.kb-silvolite.com/kb_car/performance.php?action=details&P_id=18

The Eagle Rods are nice insurance, however, the stock rods resized with ARP Rod Bolts are fine.
The Comp Cams 274H is a very good default Camshaft up to around 430hp on the 383 Engines, "all in" under 6000 rpm.

[BSB67]

IMO
I would strongly suggest, that you should re-evaluate your Piston selection, BEFORE you look into Camshafts ?

The Sealed Power stock cast pistons are VERY Low Compression in the real world(non advertised), and require careful Block Milling/Blueprinting to deliver any real performance potential with the Aluminum Heads.
I know,
I've had to Mill the crap outa 383 Blocks before when using them, don't you do it !

I would suggest better Money spent at the outset of your project, (given the Block Milling/Machining costs associated), to get better Pistons with Higher Compression ratio for the "Aluminum" Heads.
Remember,
Aluminum dissapates the heat of combustion MUCH quicker than Iron, therefore, 1 full point increase of C.R. is Rec'd above a comparable Iron Head.
10:1 C.R. would be ideal.

Try these as a "minimum", may even still require some Milling, but far better ?
http://www.kb-silvolite.com/kb_car/performance.php?action=details&P_id=18

The Eagle Rods are nice insurance, however, the stock rods resized with ARP Rod Bolts are fine.
The Comp Cams 274H is a very good default Camshaft up to around 430hp on the 383 Engines, "all in" under 6000 rpm.

A lot of good tip here

[BSB67]

IMO
I would strongly suggest, that you should re-evaluate your Piston selection, BEFORE you look into Camshafts ?

The Sealed Power stock cast pistons are VERY Low Compression in the real world(non advertised), and require careful Block Milling/Blueprinting to deliver any real performance potential with the Aluminum Heads.
I know,
I've had to Mill the crap outa 383 Blocks before when using them, don't you do it !

I would suggest better Money spent at the outset of your project, (given the Block Milling/Machining costs associated), to get better Pistons with Higher Compression ratio for the "Aluminum" Heads.
Remember,
Aluminum dissapates the heat of combustion MUCH quicker than Iron, therefore, 1 full point increase of C.R. is Rec'd above a comparable Iron Head.
10:1 C.R. would be ideal.

Try these as a "minimum", may even still require some Milling, but far better ?
http://www.kb-silvolite.com/kb_car/performance.php?action=details&P_id=18

The Eagle Rods are nice insurance, however, the stock rods resized with ARP Rod Bolts are fine.
The Comp Cams 274H is a very good default Camshaft up to around 430hp on the 383 Engines, "all in" under 6000 rpm.

A lot of good tips here

[Cooter]

I hope nobody here that touts "Buy American" buys Sealed Power/speed pro pistons.....Yep, right on the box..."Made in India"...

[jasonjb75]

Thank you guys for the suggestions!  There is a identical kit from Mancini that includes the KB162 pistons and I now know that I will go that route.  Thanks again for the information because I am sure you experience far outweighs anything that I think I may know!  LOL  Like you said I'll probably stick with the stock connecting rods with ARP bolts to put some better use of that money.  I'll just take the time to grind them and get them close in weight. 

Knowing that I will be using the same connecting rods do I have to make sure that I put them back into the same cylinder when I reassemble it?  I know that I am also going to be grinding and balancing the crank as well.

This will be quite the learning experience so I am sure I will have many questions.  Thanks for your patience and help.

Jason

[elacruze]

Thank you guys for the suggestions!  There is a identical kit from Mancini that includes the KB162 pistons and I now know that I will go that route.  Thanks again for the information because I am sure you experience far outweighs anything that I think I may know!  LOL  Like you said I'll probably stick with the stock connecting rods with ARP bolts to put some better use of that money.  I'll just take the time to grind them and get them close in weight. 

Knowing that I will be using the same connecting rods do I have to make sure that I put them back into the same cylinder when I reassemble it?  I know that I am also going to be grinding and balancing the crank as well.

This will be quite the learning experience so I am sure I will have many questions.  Thanks for your patience and help.

Jason

The 1984 printing of the Direct Connection engines manual states that balancing is not necessary for street engines, the factory tolerances are close enough. I agree. I would measure the component weights, and if they are close to factory piece weight I'd not spend any money on that.