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My Wheel Vintques meltdown

Started by twodko, January 21, 2011, 07:43:54 PM

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twodko

The last touch to our freshly resto'd 69 was some new shoes and socks. We choose W V's Chrome Magnum 500's for the old school look. They look great on the car but.........I was cleaning the wheels yesterday and discovered the black paint is flaking off!!!  :icon_smile_angry:

So I email them about this and here's the responce I received from Eric at W V :

"Sorry that you are having a paint issue. If you email me your address I can send you some paint to touch them up. Unfortunately they are almost four months old and out of our 30day warranty period."

"Sorry I'M having a paint issue" .....really.......really.....its my problem? On the car for 4 months and maybe 50 miles and its my problem. It just goes to show ya - once they have your money you are F**KED! I'm so gawd damn mad I can't see straight.  :flame:

Wheel Vintques is out of Fresno, Ca. plenty close enough for me to drive over there and chuck the wheels through their front window!   :fireangry:

OK I'm done now....( WheelVintques - the skeevin lowlife skallywag corporate buttsucking good for nothing customers don't mean crap pimples on the ass of humanity so on and so forth) Bastards.
FLY NAVY/Marine Corps or take the bus!

71ChallengeHer

That sucks.  :pity:  I bought my ralley wheels from them. I hope nothing like that happens to mine.

elacruze

Crap.

I was mad at Stockton Wheel for taking 5 months on a 6 week promise, and lying to me 3 or 4 times along the way.
At least they made right by tossing in a set of baby moons for free. I was hoping WV was better.
1968 505" EFI 4-speed
1968 D200 Camper Special, 318/2bbl/4spd/4.10
---
Torque converters are for construction equipment.

Cooter

Unfortunately, Paint does NOT stick to chrome...And Chrome does NOT stick to aluminum very well..Just ask anybody that has a set of aluminum wheels chrome plated what happens the FIRST time you mount a set of low profile tires on 'em....
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

komninon

i know what you mean. i had the same problem with my wheels too.
i have the billet aluminum. I paid $400 each wheel, and they sent me a spray can of flat black  paint.....
they even told me, that this is the first time they had a problem like that....

The70RT

My 15" Chrome Magnums from Vintques have been in the garage attic since '05....hope they are ok.
<br /><br />Uploaded with ImageShack.us

472 R/T SE

Since Specialty has went above & beyond for us here, maybe you can contact them to get their take on it.  Perfect opportunity for them to one up the competition?   :shruggy:

Worth a try I guess.

no318

Mine did it too, just have to touch it up periodically, I guess.

Just 6T9 CHGR

Quote from: 472 R/T SE on January 21, 2011, 11:12:48 PM
Since Specialty has went above & beyond for us here, maybe you can contact them to get their take on it.  Perfect opportunity for them to one up the competition?   :shruggy:

Worth a try I guess.

My SW Road Wheels chip in the black painted area as well....like Cooter said paint doesnt stick well to chrome :rotz:
Chris' '69 Charger R/T


FLG

Quote from: Just 6T9 CHGR on January 22, 2011, 09:50:00 AM
Quote from: 472 R/T SE on January 21, 2011, 11:12:48 PM
Since Specialty has went above & beyond for us here, maybe you can contact them to get their take on it.  Perfect opportunity for them to one up the competition?   :shruggy:

Worth a try I guess.

My SW Road Wheels chip in the black painted area as well....like Cooter said paint doesnt stick well to chrome :rotz:

I dont understand, if there going to paint a wheel why not either A) Not chrome it or B) De-Chrome the wheels they have before paint or C) De-Chrome the wheels and powder coat

Though A seems more viable.

twodko

Greetings membership!

I'm much calmer this morning and I've stowed all of my weapons!  ;D
I appreciate all the comments gang, thanks. Lesson learned I guess. It was a toss up between American Racing alloy TT II's or Mag 500's. They both look old school great on our cars. Shoulda, coulda, woulda. It will be hard to sell them now with this paint issue and in this economy I can't replace them unless I can sell the 500's.......frack! To all of my cold climate membership friends, pardon me for mentioning this but its going to be in the 70's this weekend here in NorCal so we're rolling the R/T and damn the flaking paint and damn the high gas prices!   :drive:
FLY NAVY/Marine Corps or take the bus!

charger Downunder

The black paint came off my magnums too i just repainted them i purchased a template from year one to make it easier masking off, they should sell them unpainted and throw in a paint template so you can paint them yourself.
[/quote]

twodko

Yeah mate I hear you. How much did YearOuch want for a temple kit?
FLY NAVY/Marine Corps or take the bus!

RECHRGD

Hmmmmm....I bought my WV magnum 500's through Year One about 12 years and 36K miles ago.  No issues at all.  They still look like new.   Bob
13.53 @ 105.32

Cooter

Quote from: FLG on January 22, 2011, 11:30:09 AM
Quote from: Just 6T9 CHGR on January 22, 2011, 09:50:00 AM
Quote from: 472 R/T SE on January 21, 2011, 11:12:48 PM
Since Specialty has went above & beyond for us here, maybe you can contact them to get their take on it.  Perfect opportunity for them to one up the competition?   :shruggy:

Worth a try I guess.

My SW Road Wheels chip in the black painted area as well....like Cooter said paint doesnt stick well to chrome :rotz:

I dont understand, if there going to paint a wheel why not either A) Not chrome it or B) De-Chrome the wheels they have before paint or C) De-Chrome the wheels and powder coat

Though A seems more viable.


Cause then, they'd cost a bunch more and instead of bit*hin' bout paint flaking, the price would be the new bit*h..
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

FLG

How would they cost more if they simply didn't chrome the ones they painted? Why not make powder coating a extra option?  :shruggy:

Seems it would cost more to chrome a weel than paint over it, why chrome it in the first place?

Cooter

Time is money...More time to do seperate steps, = More money..
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

FLG

Quote from: Cooter on January 22, 2011, 09:59:46 PM
Time is money...More time to do seperate steps, = More money..

How is it more steps? Your taking a whole step out.

"These batch skip chrome go straight to paint" how is this more work? Or an extra step?

Seems more work, chrome a wheel, send it to paint...don't chrome the wheel...send it to paint.

Am I missing something?

They'd probably be saving money by not chroming them.

The70RT

Quote from: FLG on January 22, 2011, 10:03:17 PM
Quote from: Cooter on January 22, 2011, 09:59:46 PM
Time is money...More time to do seperate steps, = More money..

How is it more steps? Your taking a whole step out.

"These batch skip chrome go straight to paint" how is this more work? Or an extra step?

Seems more work, chrome a wheel, send it to paint...don't chrome the wheel...send it to paint.

Am I missing something?

They'd probably be saving money by not chroming them.

Magnum wheels are chrome then they paint the center. Road wheels had no chrome. It would be difficult to chrome part of the wheel unless they chromed it then inserted the center but then you have to weld near the chrome.
<br /><br />Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Cooter

Thank You, I was beginning to think nobody actually understood this concept....This guy wanted Chrome wheels (Magnum 500)..You can't Chrome PART of a wheel once it's together...Then, if it's chromed and welded, guess what would be the bit*h then? Yep, the chrome is peeling off my brand new wheels....
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

FLG

Gotcha, forgot we were talking about magnums and they're a mixture of chrome and black.. :slap:

bull

Not to pile on or put you on the spot but why didn't you take advantage of the Specialty group buy deal?

Anyway, seems like they didn't have this problem with the original Magnum 500s. Or am I misinformed?

charger Downunder

[/quote]

twodko

Its OK Bull, I can't cry over spilled milk. A lay off was in my immediate future. It was a choice between a) Do I finish the car short of new shoes with the funds I have? or b) do I tap into the savings?
I had to do what I could at the time.  :shruggy:
FLY NAVY/Marine Corps or take the bus!

TUFCAT

I have Wheel Vintiques magnum 500's - purchased in 2005. I've never had a problem with peeling or chipping.  :shruggy:

quadram4

But tufcat, u dnt drive ur car!  lol
Hungry Dago

TUFCAT

Bob, you're thinking about my old mans 'Cuda...  ;)

twodko

I wish my new Mag500's were in the shape of yours Tufcat. Paint flaking off my new wheels is unacceptable. Wheel Vintiqies clearly knew this was a problem. Their fix to appease customers is to offer a rattle can repair. Again, unacceptable to me.  I've begun the process with WV to reconcile this.
FLY NAVY/Marine Corps or take the bus!

TUFCAT

I agree with you 100% Tom.

I'd be pissed if my wheels were peeling - even after five years...then I'd be EVEN MORE pissed! :flame:

I've put over 1,000 miles and washed mine several times in the past five years.

Remember, the original manufacture Motor Wheel was able to get this process right the first time....and made paint stick to the original chrome wheels over 40 years ago!  Don't give me shit about paint "not-sticking" to chrome these days. :flame:

Geez, if the paint stuck 40 years ago, "quality control" is a no brainer.  :2thumbs:

Unless of course.... they only want to cut costs and sell an inferior quality part.  :Twocents: :Twocents:

Rolling_Thunder

Ummm -  maybe i am a little over thinking the process -  paint doesnt stick to chrome worth a damn -  break out some sand paper and sand the chrome where the black paint goes - then repaint ?    Granted, that is labor intensive and a PITA - but shouldn't that solve the problem ?   
1968 Dodge Charger - 6.1L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.55 Sure Grip

2013 Dodge Challenger R/T - 5.7L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.73 Limited Slip

1964 Dodge Polara 500 - 440 / 4-speed / 3.91 Sure Grip

1973 Dodge Challenger Rallye - 340 / A-518 / 3.23 Sure Grip

Cooter

Quote from: Rolling_Thunder on January 25, 2011, 12:35:42 PM
Ummm -  maybe i am a little over thinking the process -  paint doesnt stick to chrome worth a damn -  break out some sand paper and sand the chrome where the black paint goes - then repaint ?    Granted, that is labor intensive and a PITA - but shouldn't that solve the problem ?   


Amen....I wished I had someone that would even THINK about doing something for me everytime I bought something at the shop that wasn't correct, or didn't perform up to "claims"....Most the time, I get the same response....
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

ACUDANUT

Quote from: Cooter on January 25, 2011, 12:49:05 PM
Quote from: Rolling_Thunder on January 25, 2011, 12:35:42 PM
Ummm -  maybe i am a little over thinking the process -  paint doesnt stick to chrome worth a damn -  break out some sand paper and sand the chrome where the black paint goes - then repaint ?    Granted, that is labor intensive and a PITA - but shouldn't that solve the problem ?  


Amen....I wished I had someone that would even THINK about doing something for me everytime I bought something at the shop that wasn't correct, or didn't perform up to "claims"....Most the time, I get the same response....
Yea, or to aluminum. :Twocents:

The70RT

I remember someone on here that did light sand blasting to a chrome bumper then painted it and it held up...but that would be more of a pita.
<br /><br />Uploaded with ImageShack.us

twodko

Hey gang,

I couldn't wait to share this special day with you all. After seeing the paint flaking off my new WV Mag500's, I emailed them about this small issue. Their gracious responce was to send me some "touch-up" paint. I'm happy to report this "fix" arrived today. I thought I'd share a couple pix with my mopar peeps.

The can has no label, I can understand why that might be.
The cans appears to have old glue on it.....maybe from the label.
Finally, the can has been used at some point. They didn't even clean the nozzle.

Happy days.
FLY NAVY/Marine Corps or take the bus!

DougMN

I think you are missing the point on the spray can. You are suppose to use what you need on your wheels, and then send it to the guy that bought wheels after you. Then he sends the can to the next guy on the list, see.

terrible one

Hahaha! Wow. I know it's a serious situation and I feel for you but that is pretty funny, especially that it is used!  :hah:

TUFCAT


komninon

 i still have the spray can in the box. i wonder if mine is used too......
i got a quote to fix all the wheels for $475. i am thinking when i save that $475 i would rather buy a different set of wheels instead of  fixing them and still advertising their product.

Old Moparz

Quote from: DougMN on January 25, 2011, 08:54:27 PM
I think you are missing the point on the spray can. You are suppose to use what you need on your wheels, and then send it to the guy that bought wheels after you. Then he sends the can to the next guy on the list, see.


:smilielol:


Anyone wanting to respray their wheels & doesn't want to buy a masking kit or spend a lot of time masking it off with tape, here's an idea that I've used with no trouble.....

Cover the 5 spokes with a light coat of thick grease. I spread it onto the areas that I don't want painted, then spray the paint. Sounds too simple? Well, it worked for me & when the paint was dry I wiped the grease off the chrome.   :Twocents:
               Bob               



              Going Nowhere In A Hurry

twodko

It's a chain can! Now I got it.  :smilielol:
FLY NAVY/Marine Corps or take the bus!

bull

Quote from: Rolling_Thunder on January 25, 2011, 12:35:42 PM
Ummm -  maybe i am a little over thinking the process -  paint doesnt stick to chrome worth a damn -  break out some sand paper and sand the chrome where the black paint goes - then repaint ?    Granted, that is labor intensive and a PITA - but shouldn't that solve the problem ?  

You're not overthinking the problem, you're just not identifying it correctly. I believe the point is that if it's possible to get the paint to stick to those lug nut areas on new wheels, Wheel Vintiques should be doing it instead of the customer.

Quote from: twodko on January 25, 2011, 07:51:40 PM
Hey gang,

I couldn't wait to share this special day with you all. After seeing the paint flaking off my new WV Mag500's, I emailed them about this small issue. Their gracious responce was to send me some "touch-up" paint. I'm happy to report this "fix" arrived today. I thought I'd share a couple pix with my mopar peeps.

The can has no label, I can understand why that might be.
The cans appears to have old glue on it.....maybe from the label.
Finally, the can has been used at some point. They didn't even clean the nozzle.

Happy days.

Wow. That's pathetic. At this point I'd return the wheels and demand a refund. I don't know what you paid for the WV Magnums but with the Specialty group buy they're around $120 each, or were when it started.

dads_69

In my opinion, I would just redo the wheels myself. Yes, masking it up is time consuming, but the way I look at it will be done correctly this time, and if not, then the blame is yours, not trying to stir the pot here either FYI.
The rattle can paint sent to you may be like car paint, which can be put into an aresol can they sent you vs Krylon.
My suggestion is mask chrome part of wheel, sand black off using 240 or 320 grit paper, after completed, re-mask, seal and paint. As stated, paint will not stick to any chrome area whatsoever.
Goodluck and yes, it does suck, but hey, at least you have the wheels and they are not bent or rusting, correct? Trying to be an optimist here..

Mark
Hey, you can hate the game but don't hate the player.

twodko

Were I to chose repairing the wheels myself your procedures would be the course I'd take. Mark I appreciate your thoughts, it means a lot to me to hear the opinions of the membership. Ultimately I may have to make the repairs muself.
Its the principle behind this that has me fried. I bought from Wheel Vintiques in good faith expecting a solid product. I'm sure WV makes many other products that are well made. Their Magnum500's are not. Considering the bag of samolians I paid for these wheels I expect no less than a well made product. The last thing I need is to be involved in a pissing match with some company. I will not be walked on, I will not be treated as so much consumer detritus and I have to take this as far as I can. I'm not a sheep and I don't roll over.
I'm waiting for their reply to a lengthy letter I sent to them including receipts etc. It would be easy and the right thing to do for them to reconcile this to my satisfaction. I hope for this outcome. If not its game on.
FLY NAVY/Marine Corps or take the bus!

charger Downunder

When i did mine i just cleaned them with wax and grease remover and painted over what was left with VHT high temperature Roll bar and chassis, satin black.
[/quote]

resq302

Well, I ran into a similar situation when I restored my original magnum 500 rims.  I had the satin black area crack and peel and like you, had the satin chrome still behind it that did not get scuffed up enough.  I ended up having to strip them all down and repaint them.  Now granted, these are original rims that have the satin chrome or nickel finish on the spokes vs. high polished chrome like the current repros are.  I do feel your paint as it is a royal pain in the ass to get around the area where the lug nuts go but generally Ive found if you want something done right, 90% of the time anymore you have to do it yourself since no one gives a damn or takes pride in there work or product they put out.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

RECHRGD

They obviously have changed something in the manufacturing process in recent years.  TUFCAT has had no problems and as I previously stated I've gone 35K miles with them and have no issues.  I would ask them what has changed.  They should not cheapen the product and rely on their previously good reputation to sell it.
13.53 @ 105.32

RamZCharger

I recently bought Magnums from Specialty Wheels, with the group buy discount.  I was very pleased with the customer service over there, and would highly recommend Kelly.  I also purchased Shelby cragars for my 65 Mustang, and really do like those guys.  However, when I had the tires mounted and wheels put on my Charger - I was in the garage watching, the paint just flaked off around the lug nuts.  The wheel tech took a lot of care with me hovering, and I could get the paint to flake with my finger.  This is before I had any miles on the wheels.  I'll be masking and painting them myself.  Seems we are not alone with this issue.

twodko

Here is the first letter I've sent to WV, I'll be hammering them today if I still have no response from them.

                                                                                        January 23, 2011


Dear Wheel Vintiques,

I sent an email to you on Friday with regard to the paint flaking off my new
Magnum 500 chrome wheels. Eric responded promptly by saying:

"Sorry that you are having a paint issue. If you email me your address I can send you some paint to touch them up. Unfortunately they are almost four months old and out of our 30day warranty period."

Thank you Eric for you timely reply and please understand this letter is not directed at
you. This letter is directed at the CEO and QC of Wheel Vintiques. Let me be clear here, I am not having a "paint issue" with my new wheels you are having a "paint issue". I made the assumption that the wheels I purchased, and the finish thereon, would be in keeping with the good reputation of your company. So far my trust in your company's products has been poorly placed.
I am a member of an online vintage mopar forum. I posted a thread on it about this
problem. It appears other buyers have had this very same costly failure on chromed or
billet aluminum Magnum 500 wheels purchased from Wheel Vintiques. I regret being unaware of this costly problem with your Mag 500 wheels.  My question is, if Wheel Vintiques knew this type of finish failure occurs, and you certainly did or you wouldn't be so quick offering a rattle can "fix" for these wheels, why didn't you provide a disclaimer to this effect? Buyers would then have had the option of purchasing this
specific product of yours or not. After we purchase these expensive wheels and shortly there after discover the paint flakes off, our only remedy is the offered spray can of "touch up" paint. This is a deceptive business practice, dishonest and is outrageous to say the least. Its obvious Wheel Vintiques knew about the paint flaking off these wheels and chose to ignore the problem and continued selling a defective product to unsuspecting customers. This is fraud.
How can you allow your company to be put in the position of having to defend a problem with one of your products that is indefensible? If you are an American company your business ethics are now in serious question.
I'm told my wheels are "almost 4 months old and are out of their 30 day warranty period". This is my exact point, my wheels are only 4 months old! Few if any would think to closely examine their new wheels during the first 30 days of ownership for defects? Why would we? I didn't discover this failure until I washed my car and had paint coming off on a towel! A consumer makes a purchase with the expectation of a quality product. A professional reputable dealer orders your product and installs them on a customer's car. We happily drive off believing we have a quality product only to find out shortly thereafter it is not a quality product and in this case obviously displays premature failure of its fit or finish. I bought 6 wheels from you fully expecting a quality product free of defects. I spent $900+ for substandard, failed finish wheels I am now stuck with. Yes, that is correct, I am "stuck" with these wheels and now can not afford to purchase another set of wheels from a quality manufacturer. A manufacturer who will stand by their products and not a company whose response is, "Sorry about your problem but here's a can of spray paint". Would this be another example of arrogant corporate America saying, "we have your money now so go fish!"? Sadly, it appears to be the case.
I want and hope Wheel Vintiques will stand up and do the right thing for me and all your customers. I cannot expect to recoup sales tax or installation costs but I do want Wheel Vintiques to refund my money for the 6 wheels I bought from you or exchange these wheels for another set of different wheels. Enclosed you will find copies of my sales receipts for the wheels in dispute.

Respectfully,


Tom Owens
FLY NAVY/Marine Corps or take the bus!

dads_69

Wow. Refund for wheels, well goodluck to you with that. I'm just glad my charger won't be a show car only and a driver thank goodness.
Hey, you can hate the game but don't hate the player.

resq302

Tom,

At this point, the only thing I would settle for is to get a price from a professional shop and have WV reimburse you that cost of correcting them since the new set they might send you could do the same thing. This way you could either send them out and have a pro do them or you can possibly save some money and get it done yourself.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

TUFCAT

Quote from: resq302 on January 28, 2011, 05:41:51 PM
Tom,

At this point, the only thing I would settle for is to get a price from a professional shop and have WV reimburse you that cost of correcting them since the new set they might send you could do the same thing. This way you could either send them out and have a pro do them or you can possibly save some money and get it done yourself.

Was this a recent transaction on your credit card? Maybe you contact them and reverse charges until the issue gets resolved? :scratchchin: This is a large chunk of coin.

bull

Quote from: TUFCAT on January 28, 2011, 09:40:51 PM
Quote from: resq302 on January 28, 2011, 05:41:51 PM
Tom,

At this point, the only thing I would settle for is to get a price from a professional shop and have WV reimburse you that cost of correcting them since the new set they might send you could do the same thing. This way you could either send them out and have a pro do them or you can possibly save some money and get it done yourself.

Was this a recent transaction on your credit card? Maybe you contact them and reverse charges until the issue gets resolved? :scratchchin: This is a large chunk of coin.

I agree. If paid for with a credit card you can challenge the sale.

resq302

I think he said it was 4 mos ago.  I don't know what the restrictions are for credit card companies but I want to say the norm is 90 days.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

ACUDANUT

All I can say is welcome to today's quality and control.  Heck my new Cragars SS are all ready starting to pit.  I just can't sand and paint them like you can. :Twocents:  :brickwall:

Cooter

Just like a car when purchased brand new, once that first 36K miles or 3 years is gone, you know THAT'S when sh*t will break on the car...just like that paint..You know it will last until they wheels are out warranty before it peels..It's a time released paint, made especially to peel after the first 90 days has passed...Sometimes the time release doesn't work correctly and it takes around 3 years to peel, but usually, it peels...


I personally have to have "the talk" with people after repainting their rides...The First thing I tell them is NOT TO WASH THE CAR WITH A HOSE!

They simply look confused and reply in the SAME EXACT manner "why not? I mean, you do guarantee your work NOT to rust out right?"

I simply reply "Did the factory?"
People kill me..I ask them "You are gonna let this car sit outside and deteriorate down to nothing in about 5 years correct?"

They reply "Hell NO! After spending all this money, I can't let it go to sh*t!! are you CRAZY?"
Yet, they will spray the same water that falls out of the sky in RAIN form, back onto that car with a 220 Volt pump and the end result is the same.....

It all depends on how well you take care of thing today as to how long it stays looking "New"..How many here spray their chrome wheels with WD-40 when being stored? i gotta buddy that sprays his EVERY time he stores the car to help keep the chrome from peeling..ya' know what? It works..His 6 year old wheels look showroom new today...
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

adauto

ALL my rides get the W-D treatment before storage... been doing it for years already.  :yesnod:

But as for the paint peel thing going here that SUX!  But I'llsay I've redone dozens of ralleys over the years (mostly buicks) but same s#it. Paint dont like laying on chrome, period. I 've found the longest lasting paint was Krylon. Hope that helps.  :shruggy:
Never too many! 70 Chally R/T Convert-70 GTX-68-69-74 Charger-68 Dart GTS

http://a-dauto.com/  http://www.facebook.com/pages/A-D-Truck-and-Auto-Parts/67427352555?ref=hl

twodko

Top 'o the Day folks!

Thank you all for your input. Each of you have a viable point. Copy that  resq302. Ain't that the truth ACUDANUT! Loud and clear Cooter. Back in the day Tabasco sauce and WD-40 were my very best friends.......well that and 5.56.
90 days on a credit card (in Ca.) is standard, unfortunately I paid cash. Its just a stubborn thing of ours, if we can't pay cash we save until we can. I spoke with the owner of the auto service center who ordered and installed the wheels on my behalf and he's agreed to get involved. Maybe WV will be more receptive to another business than me, I'm only the customer right?
Yesterday I took the Q5 monster in for an axle bearing replacement. That went off problems free, however BOTH rear wheels have up to 1/4" of wobble! Despite being livid over this situation and my willingness to go after them in small claims court, the reality of this is its a very expensive "lesson learned" and I'd be throwing good money after bad. If the service center owner can't convince WV to shelve their "bite me" attitude and do the right thing it'll be over.
Be it known forum wide I'm issuing a Fatwa against Wheel Vintiques........Jihad is on! Infidel wheel pigs!
FLY NAVY/Marine Corps or take the bus!

bull

Quote from: twodko on January 29, 2011, 02:01:26 PM
If the service center owner can't convince WV to shelve their "bite me" attitude and do the right thing it'll be over.
Be it known forum wide I'm issuing a Fatwa against Wheel Vintiques........Jihad is on! Infidel wheel pigs!


That's exactly what they are counting on and they are more than prepared for it. The guy who used that rattle can of paint last probably wrote them the same letter, went through the same angry phase and the same process of reluctant acceptance before he resprayed his wheels and moved on. You've already lost.

resq302

Not necessarily lost just yet.  Try posting a you  tube video and show how the wheels flake off just by using your finger nail on them.  Lets face it, bad publicity travels 10 times faster than good.  We've all seen it on the news.  I would also have the owner of the shop either call or send a letter too saying that the wheels have a wobble.  Lets face it, he is the authority on that.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

64dartgt

Nothing like bad publicity to make a manufacturer step up to the bar.  I went on Channel 5 in Boston a few years ago regarding extreme rust on my 2000 Toyota Tundra frame.  That was after Toyota told me "they didn't have a frame rust issue with Tundras" and essentially to go #$%#$ myself.  I also filed a complaint with NHTSA, along with quite a few others.  Six months later I got a call from NHTSA.  I told they how my spare tire mount snapped off my frame and my fear that they would have spare tires dropping like bombs from tundras left and right shortly.  Six months later Toyota recalled 111,000 vehicles.  By the way, I had already traded in my Tundra before appearing on Channel 5 and gained nothing from it.

I vote for youtube too.  :2thumbs:

twodko

That's the plan for Monday. The shop owner is a fellow gearhead, drives a restored 1965 El Camino SS 427 Burgundy/black. He'll have no problems trying to get WV to work with us.
FLY NAVY/Marine Corps or take the bus!

ACUDANUT

 That will help...However I think the most you can expect from WV, is that they might trade you out rims...You will still have the issue of the paint coming down the road on the "new ones".  Are these made in China ?  My rims are.  What is wrong with our Country ?..  :flame:
We now sacrifice quality for China crap, and help them become rich doing this....Why are we even "friends" with China after they declared war on the U.S. in Korea and helped the North out (not to mention their war crimes they committed on our POW's) ....The U.S. never even retaliated against China or made them regret this act of war, after we helped them out in WWII.  :brickwall: :flame:
May God Bless Father Emil Kapaun.

twodko

That would be the desired outcome but I would not accept another set of Mag500's. This time around (if there is a next time) I'll go with AR polished Torque Thrust II's and will be happy to pay he difference. I don't want something for nothing, I just want what's fair. Damn sure not holding my breath.

Second paragraph - Roger That!
FLY NAVY/Marine Corps or take the bus!

elanmars

Quote from: Cooter on January 29, 2011, 09:48:22 AM
Just like a car when purchased brand new, once that first 36K miles or 3 years is gone, you know THAT'S when sh*t will break on the car...just like that paint..You know it will last until they wheels are out warranty before it peels..It's a time released paint, made especially to peel after the first 90 days has passed...Sometimes the time release doesn't work correctly and it takes around 3 years to peel, but usually, it peels...


I personally have to have "the talk" with people after repainting their rides...The First thing I tell them is NOT TO WASH THE CAR WITH A HOSE!

They simply look confused and reply in the SAME EXACT manner "why not? I mean, you do guarantee your work NOT to rust out right?"

I simply reply "Did the factory?"
People kill me..I ask them "You are gonna let this car sit outside and deteriorate down to nothing in about 5 years correct?"

They reply "Hell NO! After spending all this money, I can't let it go to sh*t!! are you CRAZY?"
Yet, they will spray the same water that falls out of the sky in RAIN form, back onto that car with a 220 Volt pump and the end result is the same.....

It all depends on how well you take care of thing today as to how long it stays looking "New"..How many here spray their chrome wheels with WD-40 when being stored? i gotta buddy that sprays his EVERY time he stores the car to help keep the chrome from peeling..ya' know what? It works..His 6 year old wheels look showroom new today...

pardon my ignorance here but how do you guys wash your cars then? i need some education on this!!
1969 Dodge Charger, pseudo General Lee., 1973 ratty Dodge Charger.

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elacruze

Quote from: elanmars on February 01, 2011, 02:06:04 AM
Quote from: Cooter on January 29, 2011, 09:48:22 AM
Just like a car when purchased brand new, once that first 36K miles or 3 years is gone, you know THAT'S when sh*t will break on the car...just like that paint..You know it will last until they wheels are out warranty before it peels..It's a time released paint, made especially to peel after the first 90 days has passed...Sometimes the time release doesn't work correctly and it takes around 3 years to peel, but usually, it peels...


I personally have to have "the talk" with people after repainting their rides...The First thing I tell them is NOT TO WASH THE CAR WITH A HOSE!

They simply look confused and reply in the SAME EXACT manner "why not? I mean, you do guarantee your work NOT to rust out right?"

I simply reply "Did the factory?"
People kill me..I ask them "You are gonna let this car sit outside and deteriorate down to nothing in about 5 years correct?"

They reply "Hell NO! After spending all this money, I can't let it go to sh*t!! are you CRAZY?"
Yet, they will spray the same water that falls out of the sky in RAIN form, back onto that car with a 220 Volt pump and the end result is the same.....

It all depends on how well you take care of thing today as to how long it stays looking "New"..How many here spray their chrome wheels with WD-40 when being stored? i gotta buddy that sprays his EVERY time he stores the car to help keep the chrome from peeling..ya' know what? It works..His 6 year old wheels look showroom new today...

pardon my ignorance here but how do you guys wash your cars then? i need some education on this!!

I think he means power washer, or high pressure hose at the car wash.
I moved from the Salt belt to S. Florida, where salt air settles on your vehicles every night. I'm very conscious of corrosion.
I bought a Sunfire in '96, and rinsed it every morning with the garden hose, and bucket washed it properly every weekend for years. To this day it has no rust. The key is to use low-pressure clean water to flush out the misted salts and acid rain that gets into the bottom of the doors and collection points.
Of course, keeping the car clean and dry would be preferred, but since I don't have a climate controlled garage or live in a part of the country where I don't need one I'll have to make due with clean rinses.
1968 505" EFI 4-speed
1968 D200 Camper Special, 318/2bbl/4spd/4.10
---
Torque converters are for construction equipment.

Cooter

Actually, I prefer distilled water in a Spray bottle, but I expect that would be asking too much from the general public though....I do tell them that though...And, I still get that confused, deer in the headlight look again too...I do the wipe down thing...Does the same job, just more time and care involved...


Water in ANY form on your ride is gonna cause rust issues, it's just a matter of how long between rebuilds you want to take....Washing a newer car? Ok, be my guest..Some of the newer cars have sat for over 25 Plus years and STILL DON'T LEAK or have rust issues...These cars? Hell, they leaked straight out the factory, BRAND NEW...
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

plumbeeper

I bought a set of Magnum 500's from Koller Dodge in Chicago back in '95. They are Wheel Vintiques and have been on my RR ever since. No paint problems at all. I did battle a vibration problem for a couple years to find the rear wheels (14X8)were the problem. I called WV and they basically said they need to be "Lug Center Balanced" which is not the typical method nowadays. I finally found a shop that could balance them correctly and it helped a lot although there is still a little vibration around 70mph. Good luck.

Dave
http://www.woodgrainwheels.com
CLICK ABOVE FOR THE BEST MOPAR WOODGRAIN STEERING WHEEL RESTORATIONS

twodko

Yeah, thanks. Seems many folks have balancing problem with these wheels. I bought 4 15x8's and 2 15x7's........don't ask why. The 8's seem to be OK but the 7's are a PITA. The shop I take our cars to balanced the wheels on the car as opposed to pulling them off. Still shake at about the same speed, keeps throwing weights off.........front end components all in good shape. The next step is to balance the front drums. Ideally front disc brakes would go a long way towards solving these balance issues but I can't seem to locate that spare $1000 I thought I had.  ;)
I wouldn't piss on WV if they were on fire. Never again. I like the Mag500 look but in hind sight AR Torque Thrust II polished would have been a better choice. Shoulda, coulda, woulda.  :shruggy:

FLY NAVY/Marine Corps or take the bus!