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Radiator help/ input/ opinions/ suggestions

Started by WV69RT, January 19, 2011, 08:24:58 PM

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WV69RT

     I went out to fire up the Charger to run for a little bit because it was above 40 degrees. A little bit hard to start but she goes after a few "extended" cranks and some cussing.  It's running for maybe 7-8 minutes and I notice fluid on the fan shroud. (Peering through the hood space with the hood up)  I see that the bottom hose is bulging and has a fine spray of antifreeze coming from around it. I feel the top hose and it's hard and not warm, then turn the car off. I was hoping it is just a stuck/bad thermostat.  The radiator was flushed at the end of summer.  Thoughts?  Thanks in advance- Jon
:eyes: :brickwall: :eyes: :brickwall: :eyes:

Cooter

Sounds like you just blew an old hose....Usually, when they get What we call "Pregnant", they blow not too long afterwards..


However, I'm not a big fan of flushing out radiators...I'd rather replace 'em, as after you loosen all that crap up, it does nothing but float around in the system until it finds it's way into your heater core and plugs it up..I understand not everybody can just buy a new radiator, but that old Brass/copper unit isn't nearly as effiecient as todays Aluminum models...I have yet to see anybody with the correct equipment to blow all that crud out of a radiator..Also, unless it was "Rodded" out, it's tubes(Cores)are probably clogged anyway.
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

WV69RT

   So what is a good brand of aluminum radiator? I was looking at Be Kool 3 row aluminum.  Have any recommendations? 

WV69RT

I know you said aluminum is the way to go.... but anybody use U.S. Radiators (cool craft)? 

elacruze

Aluminum radiators are NOT more efficient than copper or brass radiators.

The only two concerns with a radiator are frontal area and surface area.

Aluminum radiators are a couple things that copper/brass are not;

1. Much more expensive
2. Much more prone to corrosion
3. Lighter, the only reason to have one

Any questions?
1968 505" EFI 4-speed
1968 D200 Camper Special, 318/2bbl/4spd/4.10
---
Torque converters are for construction equipment.

elacruze

Quote from: WV69RT on January 19, 2011, 08:24:58 PM
     I went out to fire up the Charger to run for a little bit because it was above 40 degrees. A little bit hard to start but she goes after a few "extended" cranks and some cussing.  It's running for maybe 7-8 minutes and I notice fluid on the fan shroud. (Peering through the hood space with the hood up)  I see that the bottom hose is bulging and has a fine spray of antifreeze coming from around it. I feel the top hose and it's hard and not warm, then turn the car off. I was hoping it is just a stuck/bad thermostat.  The radiator was flushed at the end of summer.  Thoughts?  Thanks in advance- Jon
:eyes: :brickwall: :eyes: :brickwall: :eyes:


Back to your specific question; Is your coolant frozen?
1968 505" EFI 4-speed
1968 D200 Camper Special, 318/2bbl/4spd/4.10
---
Torque converters are for construction equipment.

WV69RT

Chrysler repro part # 2863245 is the lower rad hose on there now. Does Gates 20609 Lower rad hose correspond to the Chrysler part?

WV69RT

Coolant is not frozen. In fact, when the hose finished its show bulging it leaked out onto the garage floor. 

BSB67

Quote from: elacruze on January 20, 2011, 11:57:55 AM
Aluminum radiators are NOT more efficient than copper or brass radiators.

The only two concerns with a radiator are frontal area and surface area.

Aluminum radiators are a couple things that copper/brass are not;

1. Much more expensive
2. Much more prone to corrosion
3. Lighter, the only reason to have one

Any questions?

Aluminum radiators may, or may not be more efficient than copper.  What can be said with certainty is that the thermal conductance of copper is greater than aluminum.  However, that is only one of several factors that together will determine a radiator's ability to transfer heat

500" NA, Eddy head, pump gas, exhaust manifold with 2 1/2 exhaust with tailpipes
4150 lbs with driver, 3.23 gear, stock converter
11.68 @ 120.2 mph

WV69RT

Got to mess around with the car today... Think it is just a bad bottom hose (though I've got a lot of antifreeze along the bottom of the Rad).  Clean it off later and see what happens.  I'm currently on hold with Year One about which hose is the non-stamped 2863245.  Aluminum rad is out.  I'm really lookin' for a replacement that just drops in ready to go.  Suggestions on that? 

BSB67

Quote from: WV69RT on February 01, 2011, 06:55:57 PM
Got to mess around with the car today... Think it is just a bad bottom hose (though I've got a lot of antifreeze along the bottom of the Rad).  Clean it off later and see what happens.  I'm currently on hold with Year One about which hose is the non-stamped 2863245.  Aluminum rad is out.  I'm really lookin' for a replacement that just drops in ready to go.  Suggestions on that? 

So you don't want an replacement aluminum radiator that drops in ready to go.  Okay.  Take it to a radiator shop, have them pressure and flow test it, clean, rod-out, and/or recore as appropriate.

500" NA, Eddy head, pump gas, exhaust manifold with 2 1/2 exhaust with tailpipes
4150 lbs with driver, 3.23 gear, stock converter
11.68 @ 120.2 mph

WV69RT

I don't want to start the whole aluminum vs. copper debate again... If you got some links to some drop-in rads that you've had success with post em' up.

WV69RT

Is this pic a small block Rad? I'm confused.  My engine is a 440... Where can I get a SB rad at?

WV69RT


suntech

Since we only live once, and all this is not just a dressed rehearsal, but the real thing............ Well, enjoy it!!!!

FLG

If you interested ill be selling my aluminum rad and dual electric fan setup.

Radiator is a brand new champion unit, fans are only a year dual Be Cool setup (need to check the size, cant remember)

:2thumbs:


WV69RT

2949059   1969   B   26"   318   Auto   A/C   ....

68coronetGLwannabe

I pointed to two old drunks sitting across the bar from us and told my friend
"That's us in 10 years".
He said "That's a mirror, dip-shit!

WV69RT

I've looked at that one.  But, I measured my core and it was 18" high and 22" across - 26" total Rad width.  I wanna be sure before I order. This is why I'm confused.


WV69RT

I talked to Bob at Glen-Ray Radiators (great info there).  The radiator is not the on that should be on the car... I had an ah ha moment.  The lower radiator outflow should be 1 3/4". The 059 Radiator has an 1 1/2".  This is why there are two hose clamps on the bottom hose.  I'm 90% sure I'm going with a U.S. Radiator 18-1/8" x 22" Part# 352191ANN.