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Stock looking front disc brake setup

Started by Sixt8Chrgr, January 15, 2011, 07:15:36 AM

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Sixt8Chrgr

Can someone suggest a company that supplies stock looking master cylinder and piping for a front disc brake conversion? I would like to use the stock drum front spindles if this is possible.

Thanks

b5blue

I can suggest you stay away from "Right Stuff" completely.  :flame: 

Belgium R/T -68

Charger -68 R/T 500 cui Stroker

Just 6T9 CHGR

I have had good results with the SSBC disc brake conversion.
http://www.ssbrakes.com/

It reuses the drum brake spindles.  I used Fine Lines for my brake lines
Chris' '69 Charger R/T


Sixt8Chrgr

Quote from: Just 6T9 CHGR on January 16, 2011, 10:56:59 AM
I have had good results with the SSBC disc brake conversion.
http://www.ssbrakes.com/

It reuses the drum brake spindles.  I used Fine Lines for my brake lines
Thanks

charger2fast4u

Quote from: Just 6T9 CHGR on January 16, 2011, 10:56:59 AM
I have had good results with the SSBC disc brake conversion.
http://www.ssbrakes.com/

It reuses the drum brake spindles.  I used Fine Lines for my brake lines

Did you have any problems with the fitment or getting the  brakes to work properly? I have this kit for all 4 wheels but haven't installed it yet and have read about the calipers cracking breaking due to not being mounted flat on the brackets? Something about they space them out with spacers to get them in the rite spot on the rotors? Also the wrong size master cylinder any problems like that?

Just 6T9 CHGR

I went with their base kit which includes the cast iron calipers & not the fancy aluminum ones (which I heard had some problems)

I originally had manual drum brakes & got the manual disc kit.  At first, yes, I thought there was a lot of pedal effort required to stop the car with the A Body master they supplied.   After a few hundred miles, the car stopped better after the pads burnished to the rotors but I still felt there was much more effort required to stop the car.   Their response was that it is inherent to the design of a caliper having to "squeeze" the pads to the rotor where in a drum brake system, the action of the cantilever effect that the wheel cylinder & shoes create requires less pedal pressure.  made some sense to me.
I have heard of some going with a larger or smaller bore master (cant remember which) to decrease the effort.

I just sourced out the correct Bendix power booster & master cylinder to convert mine to the assisted set up & all is well with about 7k miles on it so far...
Chris' '69 Charger R/T


charger2fast4u

i went with there aluminum caliper setup. i'm dreading the day when i get that far in my build to having to put them on and deal with all the issues ive read about them.  :brickwall: are the fine lines prebent lines?

Just 6T9 CHGR

Chris' '69 Charger R/T


charger2fast4u

are your's stainless steel? do they offer them in SS? how was the fitment on everything? and do they offer the brake hoses going to the calipers in braided ss sorry for all the questions i'm just trying to find a good prebent ss line source. everytime i see pics of your charger makes me more motivated to get mine going.

Just 6T9 CHGR

Nah got the regular steel ones.... they do have the SS ones.  I was concerned with the sealing of the SS lines (others have had no trouble though)
Not sure on the braided stuff....regular rubber here :thumbs:
Chris' '69 Charger R/T


Sixt8Chrgr

Quote from: Just 6T9 CHGR on January 17, 2011, 09:29:09 AM
I went with their base kit which includes the cast iron calipers & not the fancy aluminum ones (which I heard had some problems)

I originally had manual drum brakes & got the manual disc kit.  At first, yes, I thought there was a lot of pedal effort required to stop the car with the A Body master they supplied.   After a few hundred miles, the car stopped better after the pads burnished to the rotors but I still felt there was much more effort required to stop the car.   Their response was that it is inherent to the design of a caliper having to "squeeze" the pads to the rotor where in a drum brake system, the action of the cantilever effect that the wheel cylinder & shoes create requires less pedal pressure.  made some sense to me.
I have heard of some going with a larger or smaller bore master (cant remember which) to decrease the effort.

I just sourced out the correct Bendix power booster & master cylinder to convert mine to the assisted set up & all is well with about 7k miles on it so far...

Very nice car...I have read about master cylinders with the brake lines connected engine side and fender side. I believe I read that original master cylinders were connected fender side. Is this correct?

gtx6970

Quote from: Sixt8Chrgr on January 18, 2011, 09:36:32 PM
...I have read about master cylinders with the brake lines connected engine side and fender side. I believe I read that original master cylinders were connected fender side. Is this correct?

On Hemi cars, Yes.
everything else it's engine side

Sixt8Chrgr

Quote from: gtx6970 on January 19, 2011, 07:23:52 AM
Quote from: Sixt8Chrgr on January 18, 2011, 09:36:32 PM
...I have read about master cylinders with the brake lines connected engine side and fender side. I believe I read that original master cylinders were connected fender side. Is this correct?

On Hemi cars, Yes.
everything else it's engine side

Thanks