My 68 R/T

[Piston_Freddy]

Hi gang! Bought this car from a member here, got the car home in October.Always wanted a 68 Charger since I first saw the movie Bullitt when I was 13.Plan is to make the car drivable for spring.Radiator leaks,power steering leaks and new front disk brakes are leaking also.I changed the oil and filter but I need to to that again because old oil was so dirty. Probably because no PCV valve and breather???

I have done a lot of wiring work and its 90% sorted out.First it looked like three blind arsonist had tampered with the wiring.  

Here's the old threads:
 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,23652.0.html

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,64365.0.html
 



 



 

 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DAfwYa5MONs

That's it pretty much, new carpet and door panels will go in soon!

[LI_DSM]

Someone can correct if I'm wrong, but I think the steering boxes rarely need full rebuilds and if it is leaking, it will most likely be the upper or lower seals which are relatively easy fixes.

The flat black is awesome

[Brock Samson]

 Congrats! what kind of licence plate is that?..

[drifter69]

Welcome, have fun with it.

[Blakcharger440]

That is a sweeeet 68! Please show some pics of the interior and engine! That would be just as cool. I dont care about seeing dirt and grime I just like looking at project cars before they get restored! 

[71ChallengeHer]

So, you bought Hitman's car ? 

[bakerhillpins]

So, you bought Hitman's car ? 

Yep, I believe he did.

Congrats! what kind of licence plate is that?..

Estonia if I recall correctly.

[Piston_Freddy]

Someone can correct if I'm wrong, but I think the steering boxes rarely need full rebuilds and if it is leaking, it will most likely be the upper or lower seals which are relatively easy fixes.

The flat black is awesome

It just started to leak here one day   Yeah I love the flat black to, needs a new coat tho.

Welcome, have fun with it.

Thanks! That's the plan!

That is a sweeeet 68! Please show some pics of the interior and engine! That would be just as cool. I dont care about seeing dirt and grime I just like looking at project cars before they get restored! 

Thanks!  Well I'm not gonna to a full resto yet, but make the car drivable and do a resto someday. 

So, you bought Hitman's car ? 

I sure did!

Congrats! what kind of licence plate is that?..

Estonia if I recall correctly.

Yep those are Estonian small type plates, we call them American plates over here.

[Belgium R/T -68]

Sure is nice to own a charger isn't it friend?

Per

[Piston_Freddy]

Sure is nice to own a charger isn't it friend?

Per

It sure is Per!   

I just read like all the threads on internet about SSBC force 10 brakes and I'm not happy.Seems like everybody has the same problems with those things. Hard pedal and impossible to lock the wheels.I remember that the pedal was very hard to press, and the car didn't stop like it suppose do(I assume).I'm not sure if the car passes the inspection like this.    

Then I tried to fix voltmeter and gas gauge, and found out that the plastic needles are cracked, and since the small gauge sides are grind ed to make them all fit, they just broke in half.So now I'm looking a stock 68-70 gauge cluster and speedometer cable.Speedometer has to work!I plan to install the tach on the column or something like that and 3-4 aftermarket gauges under the dash.So if anybody has a 68-70 cluster for sale, let me now!

On a good side, I should get my re cored 26 rad from the radiator shop this week.

[RECHRGD]

The SSBC brakes are fine.  I've got them.  The problem is the master cylinder that they supply with the kit.  It's a 1" bore and is the reason for the hard pedal.  Go to a 7/8" bore master.  Bob

[Blakcharger440]

Very cool!!! Congrats on your purchase!

[HITMAN 149]

yup....
my old baby!!! 
well it went to a good home!!!
with the resto!!!

[elacruze]

I'm glad to see the car return to the forum!
Times will Turn, Hitman. Another will come around.

[Brass]

 

[Piston_Freddy]

The SSBC brakes are fine.  I've got them.  The problem is the master cylinder that they supply with the kit.  It's a 1" bore and is the reason for the hard pedal.  Go to a 7/8" bore master.  Bob

Is this SSBC master cylinder?  Car had drums before so maybe the problem is with the stock proportioning valve? Brakes still need bedding in I believe.Can't test them until snow melts.

yup....
my old baby!!! 
well it went to a good home!!!
with the resto!!!

Thanks John! You better buy a '68 again someday!  


I got the radiator today that was re cored, looks like new. moparsal will send me a gauge cluster and a steering box rebuild kit soon.
When the steering box is out I'm gonna upgrade engine mount and install 2 bolt's inside them. Yes I got the idea from firefighter3931 thread.

[1969chargerrtse]

Here's the thread on the power steering leak.

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,67669.0.html

[BigBlockSam]

 

[HITMAN 149]

hey raido...
no that was the stock master cyl...& booster, it was just all rebuilt by NAPA auto. (my jerkoff ex-friend told me anyways)!
lol 

[G-man]

Hello

Nice charger. My Charger was leaking from the power steer box and the pump. The entire thing needed a complete rebuild. Now it runs on all High pressure equipment good for 3500psi which is alot more than the original 1500psi they offered. You may find that a complete rebuild is the only way to fix it.

[Piston_Freddy]

Here's the thread on the power steering leak.

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,67669.0.html

Thanks for that link, that will come in handy!   

hey raido...
no that was the stock master cyl...& booster, it was just all rebuilt by NAPA auto. (my jerkoff ex-friend told me anyways)!
lol 

I see, but the car was with drums from the factory right? That looks like a disk brake master cylinder? I wonder if it was manual drum or power drum car from the factory?  I looked and I have only this thing between master cylinder and brake lines: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=46508.0;attach=101800;image  Hope Per dosent mind.
So from all the parts combined view I should have everything to stop this thing?

Hello


Nice charger. My Charger was leaking from the power steer box and the pump. The entire thing needed a complete rebuild. Now it runs on all High pressure equipment good for 3500psi which is alot more than the original 1500psi they offered. You may find that a complete rebuild is the only way to fix it.

Hi, Thanks. I already have a rebuild kit on the way!

[HITMAN 149]

hey raido..
yes the car had power drums before i did the ssbc kit...

[Piston_Freddy]

 
I got a package from moparsal today! I bought a cluster from him and he helped me out and got me a steering box rebuild kit.
 


And on other package I got a few days ago.Bought a tach from a guy in Hamb and he got me a PCV valve and breather.



I replaced the Acura seats with the stock ones, they are green , but that wont interfere driving.
 
   


Also I got a radiator back from the shop, recored and looks like new.   

 

That's all for now, can't wait to drive this thing already. 

[HITMAN 149]

you put the carpet in also?? looks soooo much nicer with a carpet.. than just a rust colored metal floor!!! lol
you didn't like the acura seats?? and you did the door panels too!!! nice!!!!

[redmist]

Are you getting rid of the cluster with the aftermarket gauges???  I may be interested!!

[Piston_Freddy]

you put the carpet in also?? looks soooo much nicer with a carpet.. than just a rust colored metal floor!!! lol
you didn't like the acura seats?? and you did the door panels too!!! nice!!!!

Yeah it took me a hole day to install that carpet, I even got the gas pedal in the right place(well almost).Door panels are in to yes.They seem to be to wide tho, the front part will go against kick panel or something, and that moves the panel back, and that causes the panel to hit with door jam when opening the door.So I think I need to trim those front panels.Sure feels nice and cozy inside with the carpet and panels.  

Acura seats were nice and all, but didn't feel right in there.I'm more of a stock-ish kind a guy.

Are you getting rid of the cluster with the aftermarket gauges???  I may be interested!!

Already got rid of that.3 gauges weren't working so I would have not sell them to anyone anyway.Sorry.

[HITMAN 149]

nice!!! she's gettin there!!!! 
LMAO.. im the opposite... i like newer modern stuff!!! lol

[Piston_Freddy]

nice!!! she's gettin there!!!! 
LMAO.. im the opposite... i like newer modern stuff!!! lol

Thanks! I'm more in to the stock'ish old school look myself.Sorry for changing things, but I got this thing built up in my head.

Anyway, a guy with a '70 Charger took his 14 inch road wheel with him and we tried them on - will fit nicely with the SSBC force 10 calipers.   
They look cool but magnums and road wheels are overdone IMO!



 
Bought a set of front bumberetts from moparsal and he also got me a gauge decal kit and 3 gauge kit under the dash. 

 

I know its not perfect but better then before, the cluster I started with has the bezel little bent and the glass is in two pieces and the metal thingy is missing near small gauges.Might get another cluster for a professional restorer someday.





I'm interested in this kind of horn button BTW!


After installing the mechanical gauges I got to test the re-cored 26 radiator, temp will not go over 180 when idling.Cant wait to see what it will show when driving.
Next week I should get 245/60 tires so I can change the cracked 235/70 I have in front. I also want to test the brakes in next week.I have a funny feeling of failing the technical inspection because of the brakes, dunno why.

To-Do list:
install the 1215 valley pan
install a battery cut off switch
fix the 3-speed wiper motor or replace it 
install a washer bottle
fix the horn
make new sway bar mount   
insurgence 
technical inspection



Plan is to make it to the first US car gathering in 30.April. Not sure if I'm gonna make it there but I will try!

[Piston_Freddy]

Took these pictures a few days ago!


 
   


I have a problem with the sway bar.

My '68 with '70 LCA's
 
'68/'69

'70
 

I'd like to strangle the guy how changed the control arms in the past. Was the sway bar on every '68 or was it an option? I was thinking of removing it for the inspection time and figure out what to do after.

And also I have a problem with the SSBC force 10 calipers.Driver side started to leak.All seals seemed to be fine except this one dust cover.Car doesn't even have 10 miles on it with those brakes.


Tried braking and the rear wheels lock up, should I get a stock prop valve or adjustable one?

[BigBlockSam]

looks like your getting there . that car has always reminded me of my 68 r/t before i restored it 

[HITMAN 149]

sorry raido..
they were like that when i bought the car... because i didn't swap out the lca's.... 
i bet your thinking what i ENDED UP WISHING.... "I SHOULD'VE BOUGHT A TURN KEY CAR!!!!!!!!" LOL
keep us posted....

[BigBlockSam]

"I SHOULD'VE BOUGHT A TURN KEY CAR!!!!!!!!

it's more fun to do it yourself. you get a sense of accomplishment . plus you know what you got . cause you know you did the work right . 

[HITMAN 149]

hey sam....
yea i know.. it does feel good when you do your car or bike yourself...  but it just gets sooooo frustrating sometimes, when you have a "project" and it just never seems like it's gonna get finished.. in my case anyways!!! ugggg

[BigBlockSam]

yea , my problem is no cash . that's what slows me down 

[HITMAN 149]

yea... i think thats been the common culprit for most of us!!! lol but it's a lil easier for the guys (like you) who have the means to do alot of work yourself.... god bless you!!! hahaha

[Piston_Freddy]

No problem John! A turn key car would be boring and too simple. And I agree everything that Sam said! I already removed the '70 brackets, just need to make some brakes to mount the end links correctly.When I changed the no name 225/70 tires to a 245/60 BFGoodrich, I found out that the rims are actually Fenton R/T's! 15x7 front and 15x9 rear.I thought they where Centerlines.I also installed the Fel-Pro 1215 valley pan that blocks the heat crossover.Also I got the 1/2 phenolic spacer but haven't installed it yet.That's it for now, gonna insure the car soon and start putting some miles on it.

[tan top]

been thinking about your 70 lower control arm v   68 swaybar  set up  ,  i have seen in aftermarket sway bar kits  , if you state when ordering you car does not have a factory sway bar  , they supply L shaped brackets  ( for the bar links )that are bolted on the control arm via the lower shock absorber bolt      could fabricate some !!   

[Piston_Freddy]

been thinking about your 70 lower control arm v   68 swaybar  set up  ,  i have seen in aftermarket sway bar kits  , if you state when ordering you car does not have a factory sway bar  , they supply L shaped brackets  ( for the bar links )that are bolted on the control arm via the lower shock absorber bolt      could fabricate some !!   

You mean like this? http://www.firmfeel.com/swaybars_b.htm That's the plan!

I might wanna try driving without the sway bars, just for kicks. Looks fun!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a6K-iF7j4UY&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SzuDuWOX6To&feature=related 

[tan top]

been thinking about your 70 lower control arm v   68 swaybar  set up  ,  i have seen in aftermarket sway bar kits  , if you state when ordering you car does not have a factory sway bar  , they supply L shaped brackets  ( for the bar links )that are bolted on the control arm via the lower shock absorber bolt      could fabricate some !!    

You mean like this? http://www.firmfeel.com/swaybars_b.htm That's the plan!

I might wanna try driving without the sway bars, just for kicks. Looks fun!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a6K-iF7j4UY&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SzuDuWOX6To&feature=related  

yeah thats them looks like you already have a plan  

never thought on looking at FF site  , to sent you a link

[Piston_Freddy]

Got my wiper pivots from user adauto today! Electrician also fixed the wiper motor.Only thing stopping getting inspection are the leaking brakes.Here's what I think:

#1. buy new SSBC calipers, if they just sell calipers only? I don't have money for that.

#2. buy drum brakes and rebuild them. I might have money for that.

#3. buy some other aftermarket brake kit. I definitely don't have money for that.

If I'll stay with disc brakes then I'm gonna have to install a prop valve too.Which means more $$$

[HITMAN 149]

sorry raido!!!
meanwhile i have the orig front drums i took off to upgrade to the disks!!! 

[Piston_Freddy]

sorry raido!!!
meanwhile i have the orig front drums i took off to upgrade to the disks!!! 

Best to stay away on those SSBC brakes from now on! Weird, the leaking stopped suddenly... I'm gonna check them on time to time, just in case.

I insured the Charger today and got gas and drove around the block a couple of times, got 3 miles on the odometer! Drove past a kindergarten and one kid yelled: "A race car!" 
Bad thing is that the engine has a huge hesitation.Need to set the timing and then buy a Eddy carb calibration kit.

[Wicked72]

For your green seats you can get a vinyl die spray and make them black! I used it in my 3rd gen and it turned out perfect and does not rub off. I had the baby shit green bucket seats. I got the spray at an auto parts store. 

[Piston_Freddy]

For your green seats you can get a vinyl die spray and make them black! I used it in my 3rd gen and it turned out perfect and does not rub off. I had the baby shit green bucket seats. I got the spray at an auto parts store. 

Thanks! those green interiors are horrible. And this car was green from the outside too when new.

I passed the inspection yesterday!  I have like driven about 60 miles so far! Front end needs an alignment bad and engine needs a tune up.Put other than that it feels great driving this old boat. 

[HITMAN 149]

  congrats!!!!
yea green on green!! ewwwww (no offense to our green brothers out there!! lol) but it was true R/T console car i couldn't pass up bro!!! lol i figured it was just paint... lol

[Piston_Freddy]

Thanks John!  

Harmonic balancer is loosing metal pieces and I need a new one.What kind a balancer I need? Its a 70' 440 off a C-body. Axle seals needs to be replace also.Fun eh?

[tan top]

Thanks John!  

Harmonic balancer is loosing metal pieces and I need a new one.What kind a balancer I need? Its a 70' 440 off a C-body. Axle seals needs to be replace also.Fun eh?

can you take a picture of the Balancer 

[Piston_Freddy]

Thanks John!  

Harmonic balancer is loosing metal pieces and I need a new one.What kind a balancer I need? Its a 70' 440 off a C-body. Axle seals needs to be replace also.Fun eh?

can you take a picture of the Balancer 

Sure!




On a positive side, I finally got the early 68' horn cap!

[tan top]

 don't think you have a cast crank in there looking at that balancer ,  not 100% but think all 70 motors got the heavier sixpack rods as standard  , there should be a part number on the back side of the balancer think the later starts with 36 .....  best get the part number  from the one thats on there  , think the bolt holes are different for the bottom pulley  & there is a a couple of different balancer hole patterns  ,  i would look for a OEM one as opposed to getting an aftermarket one  , as  i'm sure you would be needing to rebalance the motor to do the job propperly , although these motors are internaly balanced  ,  when your rebuilding a motor you really need the balance  the crank with harmonic balancer  , that your going to use !!       i'm no expert  though on this  

[aone415]

Congrats! what kind of licence plate is that?..

Brock, that's the greatest Gif ever!

[Piston_Freddy]

Thanks tan top! Anybody else want to chime in on the balancer issue? OEM or new aftermarket one? What kind a aftermarket one to get?

[Piston_Freddy]

Just got back from the parts store.They can't order from Summit and Rockauto hasent' listed any balancers. I think the only way is if someone orders a balancer and then sends it to me? I was planing on buying this one: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-163383/

[firefighter3931]

don't think you have a cast crank in there looking at that balancer ,  not 100% but think all 70 motors got the heavier sixpack rods as standard  , there should be a part number on the back side of the balancer think the later starts with 36 .....  best get the part number  from the one thats on there  , think the bolt holes are different for the bottom pulley  & there is a a couple of different balancer hole patterns  ,  i would look for a OEM one as opposed to getting an aftermarket one  , as  i'm sure you would be needing to rebalance the motor to do the job propperly , although these motors are internaly balanced  ,  when your rebuilding a motor you really need the balance  the crank with harmonic balancer  , that your going to use !!       i'm no expert  though on this  

Looking at Freddy's pics it appears that he does not have a 6-pack rod engine. I believe only the "HP" 375 horsepower motors got the heavier 6-pack rods. This motor coming from a chrysler most likely has the 350 horsepower 440 internals with a steel crank and LY rods.

Below is a pic of an externally balanced 440 with steel crank/6-pack rods harmonic balancer. Notice the additional weight attached to the face of the balancer   In freddy's pics this weight is not there so it's not a 6-pack rotating assembly, inmo.  

That being said, any balancer for a forged crank/internal balance will work fine.  


Ron


Pic of 6-pack balancer...which is different from Freddy's on the previous page 

[firefighter3931]

Just got back from the parts store.They can't order from Summit and Rockauto hasent' listed any balancers. I think the only way is if someone orders a balancer and then sends it to me? I was planing on buying this one: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-163383/

That balancer will work fine 


Ron

[terrible one]

Just got back from the parts store.They can't order from Summit and Rockauto hasent' listed any balancers. I think the only way is if someone orders a balancer and then sends it to me? I was planing on buying this one: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-163383/

That balancer will work fine 


Ron

For what it's worth, that's the balancer I'm using.

[tan top]

don't think you have a cast crank in there looking at that balancer ,  not 100% but think all 70 motors got the heavier sixpack rods as standard  , there should be a part number on the back side of the balancer think the later starts with 36 .....  best get the part number  from the one thats on there  , think the bolt holes are different for the bottom pulley  & there is a a couple of different balancer hole patterns  ,  i would look for a OEM one as opposed to getting an aftermarket one  , as  i'm sure you would be needing to rebalance the motor to do the job propperly , although these motors are internaly balanced  ,  when your rebuilding a motor you really need the balance  the crank with harmonic balancer  , that your going to use !!       i'm no expert  though on this  

Looking at Freddy's pics it appears that he does not have a 6-pack rod engine. I believe only the "HP" 375 horsepower motors got the heavier 6-pack rods. This motor coming from a chrysler most likely has the 350 horsepower 440 internals with a steel crank and LY rods.

Below is a pic of an externally balanced 440 with steel crank/6-pack rods harmonic balancer. Notice the additional weight attached to the face of the balancer  In freddy's pics this weight is not there so it's not a 6-pack rotating assembly, inmo. 

That being said, any balancer for a forged crank/internal balance will work fine. 


Ron


Pic of 6-pack balancer

thanks Ron    for sorting out my confusion
sorry if i confused anyone 

[firefighter3931]

thanks Ron    for sorting out my confusion
sorry if i confused anyone 

No worries Tan....your advise was partially correct. All the 375hp motors in 1970 got the 6-pack rods, but the std performance 440's with 350hp still had the lighter LY rods and were therefore internally balanced. It does get confusing at times. 

The balancer's design/appearance will usually tell the story 



Ron

[Piston_Freddy]

Thanks Ron! Looks like SUM-163383 balancer it is then. Yeah its just a 350hp 440.

Doesn't look like stock chain and sprockets? Engine was built in 2006, so I think I'll leave it like this? Chain has 0.3937 inch play.

[firefighter3931]

Thanks Ron! Looks like SUM-163383 balancer it is then. Yeah its just a 350hp 440.

Doesn't look like stock chain and sprockets? Engine was build in 2006, so I think I'll leave it like this? Chain has 0.3937 inch play.

Freddy, don't worry about the chain...it's fine. That is definately not a stock timing set. The chain is nice and snug on the left side which is the direction of engine rotation. If there was a lot of slack on both sides it would need replacing. 

I doubt that there is much milage on this engine if the rebuild is that recent. 

I see you have some nice Firecore ignition wires on your motor with the MSD pro-billet distributor. That is an excellent setup ! 



Ron

[Piston_Freddy]

Thanks Ron! Yeah ignition system works fine!  


Big thanks to moparsal again, i have all the parts i needed thanks to him.

Summit balancer,Percy's header gaskets and carb calibration kit.


Got new valve covers and air cleaner, looks better with black engine compartment and now the 1/2 carb spacer fits.With the old air cleaner the hood was against it(torker intake).Old cleaner and covers are gonna go on a '70 Charger.



Taped a camera on the dashboard and went for a drive: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eYap_Vtq9Kk

There is a hesitation off idle and when the secondaries come in.