how do you reverse the lower trim for a daytona

[panhead]

Happy Holidays all, I'm needing to know how you reverse the lower rear window trim from a standard charger to fit a daytona clone.

[xs29j8Bullitt]

Happy Holidays all, I'm needing to know how you reverse the lower rear window trim from a standard charger to fit a daytona clone.

Not sure what you mean about "reversing" the trim, but maybe this thread will help:

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,21596.0.html

[panhead]

In that thread Daytona RT/SE talks about "the lower straight section and taking the bow out of it" Thats what I'm needing help on. How do you take out the bow. Thanks.

[Daytona R/T SE]

I'll try to find the pictures I took while I was doing mine and post them later today. It's actually pretty easy.

[moparstuart]

I'll try to find the pictures I took while I was doing mine and post them later today. It's actually pretty easy.

[Daytona R/T SE]

OK, Here it is:

Clamp the trim to the edge of a flexible pine 1x2.

Try to find one without any knots in the wood.

Use several clamps.

You need something to protect the finish of the stainless molding from scratches and dents that would

be caused by the clamps being clamped directly to the stainless. You need something flexible, and a

softer material than the stainless molding.

I used a one inch wide strip of 1/16th inch thick copper sheet, a little longer than the molding.

I would think you could use a brass or aluminum strip too. Maybe even a thin strip of wood

The copper strip protects the finish of the stainless, and along with the clamps, it prevents the molding

from bulging out, away from the board as you bend it.

Bulging=Kinks.

Kinks=junk molding.

Place the board with the molding and the copper clamped to it across two saw horses, tables, barrels,

whatever.

Leave at least a foot or so of space between the ends of the molding and the saw horses on each side,

to allow the board room to flex.

Be sure to have the board and molding/copper/clamp assembly situated in such a way that when it

bends it will bend the correct direction (Don't ask me how I figured this one out)

Now, push down on the board with both hands, gently bowing the board/molding/copper evenly across

it's length.

While still holding the board/molding/copper down in a bowed position, carefully remove the clamps,

starting with the outside clamps and working towards the center. ( A helper is a BIG plus here )

Check the new curvature of your molding by placing it against your window plug.

Don't try to do this all in one shot.

You'll need to go through this process several times, bending it a little more each time until it

fits properly.

Cheap and easy.

Just the way I like it.  


pictures:

[panhead]

Thanks for the insight, I'll get the martails togother and give it a shot. I'll let you know how it turns out. Thanks again. You guys are AWESOME!!  

[Daytona R/T SE]

 

[randr]

Im needing to do this aswell. but my gosh im confused! you got a video? 

[Daytona R/T SE]

Im needing to do this aswell. but my gosh im confused! you got a video? 

No video,

Hell, I'm lucky to have color TV. 

It's not hard...

Just clamp it to a board and lean on it!