Drug this thing home (360). Now what should I do with it? - IT'S ALIVE!!!!

[471_Magnum]

Standard bore 360 short block.

Roadrunner has some issues with the 340 in it. Got an ear busted off the block, and a really annoying harmonic vibration. Don't know the internals on it, but it is externally balanced (albeit badly) and is a bit of a slug. Spent quite a bit of time over the summer getting it to the point where it could actually squeak the tires, but the performance can best be described as leisurely.

Been looking for a standard bore 340 block so I could re-balance and re-block what I've got. Maybe do a cam swap and some head work in the process. Unfortunately, standard bore 340s have proven to be rare as hens teeth, and really pricey.

This 360 cam up for sale locally really cheap. Figured it might be a good base for a 408 stroker. With the price of stroker kits, I can pretty much put one together for not much more than the price of a rebuild.

I want to maintain stock appearance (except for the headers), and my budget is modest. Going to stick with my T-quad intake and J-heads for now, possibly upgrading heads at a later date.

Give me your thoughts and suggestions for a stock appearing 408, namely cam selection.

[Troy]

Sorry to hear about the issues with the new ride. I have been able to find reasonably priced later model 340s but nothing in the 69-70 range for my Challenger. I bought a 5.9 Magnum (for the Barracuda before I sold it) that will eventually be going into one of my cars. Some day...

I am not very good with cams. Kamcuda is running a 408 stroker in his 70 vert so you might want to shoot him a PM. I think Ron may have helped in putting it together. The other guys I know personally all have trucks so the cam selection is different with the EFI.

The Magnum head swap is relatively cheap and they'll flow a lot better than any "LA" head. I will have a pair of stock ones that I can sell really cheap since I'm using a set of aluminum R/T heads on mine. No, it won't look exactly stock - but neither will a set of Edelbrocks. The Edelbrock Performer RPM Air Gap is the hot ticket for an intake but, again, not very stock looking.

Troy

[471_Magnum]

Any head swap will come later, but the Air Grabber limits the carburetor and intake combination, which in turn kind of limits my head selection. Not sure I can get a Magnum intake under there.

At this point, budget dictates I reuse as much as possible off the 340, including the entire top end, but I want to keep my options open for future upgrades.

[Troy]

I have a similar problem on the Mach 1 since it has a Shaker. I don't know that most Magnum carb intakes are any taller - but the Air Gap certainly is!

I'm not sure I'd worry about stroking it if you're keeping the top end from the 340 (ie. I don't know that you won't be handicapping yourself). Is it possible to just use the 360 block "as is"? Assuming the pistons aren't way down or there's some other reason you need to rebuild. Yes, stroker kits are cheap but you could be tossing a bunch of money down the drain if the heads/intake don't help move more air. Just thinking out loud here. Since I have to pay people to do this sort of work it's cheaper for me to go with heads and an intake than to tear into the bottom end.

Have you tried contacting Ryan at Shady Dell? Those guys only work on small blocks and they're always helpful on the phone (or email if they ever have time).

Troy

[471_Magnum]

Just about every retrospective that I've read on a small block rebuild these days expresses regret for not going the stroker route. I realize stock heads will be a handicap with a stroked short block but:
1. I'm not looking to build a rocket ship. Just something with more grunt than a 72 spec 340.
2. Heads can easily be upgraded later as finances permit.
3. The 360 internals are junk on this short block. Nothing there worth saving. I only paid $80 for the thing, so not much invested yet. I'd have been more selective had I wanted to stick with the stock stroke.

[Troy]

I see. If you need everything and you have to do the labor either way then it makes much more sense to go the stroker route.

I've been going through all my notes and all I have are cam recommendations for stock 5.9 Magnum with intake, carb and headers OR 408 with aluminum heads, intake, and carb.

Troy

[firefighter3931]

I'd look at the Comp XE275HL grind for a mild 408 street type build. That's the cam Rob runs in his Cuda and it is very streetable and makes excellent power. It'll roast the 275's for 200 feet ! 

Basic combo ;

-4in MP cast crank
-KB slugs 9.5:1 (less than ideal)
-275hl cam
-Box stock RPM heads
-RPM airgap intake
-#4779 Holley 750 dp'er
-TTI step headers with Dynomax Mufflers and 2.5in X-pipe
-TA 2800 stall converter & 3.55 SG


Ron

[471_Magnum]

I'm not going to have the top end breathing that Rob does since the intake, carb and heads will be stock. I already have the headers, 2800 stall and the 3.55s.

That XE275HL is about what I was thinking. It might be a bit more cam than needed, but it will leave some room for future upgrades.

Got the 360 tore down last night. No big surprises. I'll probably drop it off at the machine shop next week for cleaning and inspection.

[firefighter3931]

I'm not going to have the top end breathing that Rob does since the intake, carb and heads will be stock. I already have the headers, 2800 stall and the 3.55s.

That XE275HL is about what I was thinking. It might be a bit more cam than needed, but it will leave some room for future upgrades.

Got the 360 tore down last night. No big surprises. I'll probably drop it off at the machine shop next week for cleaning and inspection.

Jim, the 275hl is pretty mellow in a 408 but it idles nice and makes lots of manifold vaccum for easy tuning. If you have power brakes it will be no problem....this one made 16in hg at idle. Timing is 18* initial/35* total all in at 2600 

An LD340 intake is low enough and looks stock enough to fit under the factory hood. Performance is on par with the newer dual planes allthough it doesn't have the air-gap design. 

Here's a short clip of Rob's car with the 2.5in x-pipe exhaust and dynomax super turbo's :

http://www.youtube.com/user/robkamstra#p/u/4/hkFp6HBjp20



Ron

[471_Magnum]

I'll be keeping my eyes open for a LD340, or maybe a Street Dominator. Really want to maintain a stock appearance though. Both would probably sit on the shelf until the bug bit me to go faster (and budget permits a cylinder head upgrade).

[kamkuda]

I built this engine when the stroker cranks for small blocks where just available.  The pistons available at that time were very very limited.  The KB piston had a quench dome that I had cust to match the chamber of the eddy heads.

There are a lot more piston choices now but you may have to work on the pistons later if you switch to a closed chamber head. 

I would like more compression but truly it is an awesome street cruiser with loads of torque, excellent street manners, and runs on any fuel you put in it.  You could probably run kerosene LOL.

Best of luck 

[kamkuda]

very little notching reqd for the crank

[471_Magnum]

The Mahle dished pistons offered in most kits yield about 9.8:1 with 62 cc heads.

I see you've notched the bottom of the bores. From what I've read, clearancing is only required with H-beam rods.

Right now I'm leaning towards the Scat cast crank, forged piston, I beam rod rotating assembly.

Been thinking about what oil pan to use. Want a stock look, but the stock pan lacks baffles. Looks like Milodon has a stock replacement pan with baffles.

Pretty much tallied up all the Christmas receipts now. Looks like the next major parts purchase (the rotating assemby) will be after I get my tax refund. Meanwhile, I'll get the block to the machine shop.

[kamkuda]

I see you've notched the bottom of the bores. From what I've read, clearancing is only required with H-beam rods.

Notching will be determined when you mock up the engine and see how close the rod is to the block.

Have fun! 

[471_Magnum]

Notching will be determined when you mock up the engine and see how close the rod is to the block.

What rods did you use?

[kamkuda]

Standard rods.
ARP bolts IIRC

[Challenger340]

"Sometimes yer the Bumblebee, sometimes yer the Windshield"
I still dunno "which" we were on this one ?

We recently did a .030 over 340 for a "numbers matching" Car, using the 'Thumpr' cam the Customer supplied !
NOT, our first Cam choice obviously ! but the Guy wanted the "sound" ?
Surprisingly,
the little wee-40 popped out about 415hp & 390 Torque on the Dyno RIGHT AWAY, using the Stock Cast Iron Intake Manifold & Thermobog Carburetor !
Anybody who's played with Thermobogs knows how un-tunable they can be without parts, which we had NONE !
The Dyno Headers were used on the otherwise "Bone-Stock" appearing Engine.
Pretty shocked !
We were standing around in the Dyno room trying to look all "Intelligent", like we "knew" it would do this ?
NOT !

The only "tricks" applied internally, were some 2.02" Intake Valves in the otherwise 1.88 J head castings, and Intake Port porting ONLY, (Intake Port Bowl Volume), leaving the exhaust Port alone & Untouched, which seemed to counteract somewhat the Thumpr cams overembellished Exhaust profile for the "Lumpy Sound" ?
I'm sure we could have made more with a better Cam profile/Carb & Intake ?
Nonetheless,
kinda puts a wet rag over some of the "Stroker" builds I've seen ?

I am unsure of the hp/trq with the stock exhaust manifolds because we "stupidly" did not Dyno test with them, DUH !
We were only Dynoíng as a matter of procedure to break-in, and prove a product for delivery ? not expecting to chase any power ?
I don't even know if the Dyno headers helped or hurt ?
however,
I've since been for a ride in the HAPPY Customers Car with the Engine and stock exhaust manifolds, 3.55 gears etc., very FUN ride that gives a great accounting of itself as a "musclecar" with a wide powerband,  albeit, all done below about 6000rpm ?
NOT a Slug at all, that can roast the Balonies at will with a 2800 Stall Convertor !

Just some food for thought ?
I like Strokers, I REALLY do, and obviously if a Guy can afford the rotating assembly, GO FOR IT !
Just saying here,
but if you are considering using the stock Iron J heads on a Stroker, because of the cost factor,
sometimes, it may be important to remember,
even the stock cubic inch stuff can provide adequate smile factor ?
It's not the "Rotating seembly" by itself that pumps the Stroker cost, but the rest of the additions for the Stroker to work "well" throughout the rpm range that typically add to the expense ? Balancing/Heads/Intake/Carb ?

[firefighter3931]

The biggest advantage i see with going the stroker route is the increase in torque. Another 80-100 ftlbs is great when working with a heavy b-body using mild gearing. A stroker would be the only thing i would consider in a big car with a smallblock based engine. 


Ron

[471_Magnum]

Honestly, I could live with the modest power level of the 340 in this car. It's just the vibration that drives me nuts. But the cost of "upgrading" in the cubic inch department is almost too good to pass up.

[471_Magnum]

The motor got tore down last week. Loaded the block into the hatchback today and dropped it off at the machine shop. Going to get it cleaned and checked first.

[firefighter3931]

Hopefully no major issues with the block. 

Looking forward to your progress 


Ron

[471_Magnum]

Just dreaming out loud here:

360 block- 30 over
Scat 408 stroker kit. Cast crank, I-beam rods, Forged dish pistons (9.8:1 @ 62 cc) (just waiting for my tax refund)
J-heads (got 'em)... maybe upgrade to RHS LA-X heads if Indy has a good deal at the March swap meet
Stock rockers (got 'em)
Stock T-quad intake (got it)... or aftermarket upgrade if someone can point me to a spread bore that will work with an air grabber
Factory windage tray (check)
Summit stock replacement pan (w/baffles?), or Milodon stock replacement
Comp XE275HL
TTi step headers (got 'em)
2800 stall converter (got it)
3:55 gears (got 'em)

Other than the nuts and bolts stuff, am I missing anything?

[firefighter3931]

That looks like a great buildup 

Was talking with Dwayne last week and he just happened to have a set of the RHS heads in his shop for some cleanup work. They kick ass compared to the best factory heads and were on par with Eddy RPM's....he really liked them, especially at the price.  The only downfall is the added weight and cast iron casting which is more compression sensative than an aluminum head. He said the chambers were very nice. 

If you wanted to use a lowrise spreadbore manifold the Holley Street Dominator would work and provide a nice upgrade vs the stocker. 

Of course you will need a nice set of FireCore 50 ignition wires to light the fire 



Ron

[471_Magnum]

Those heads to appear to be one heck of a deal. That's where the project would seem to really start to snow ball though.

Just reading where we should expect $4/gallon gas prices this summer. Maybe sticking with a mild stock displacement rebuild is the way to go. Nice thing about the 340, I currently never give much thought to fuel price when I get behind the wheel...

[471_Magnum]

So now I've got a new dilemma. Just came across a "date code correct" standard bore 340 block.

Still in negotiations, but I think I can get it for less than 300 bucks. Haven't spent any more money on the 360 block yet.

Do I:

• 1. Grab it an rebuild the 340 with a few go-fast goodies
• 2. Stroke it. Toss the 360 block.
• 3. Buy it and shove it under the work bench and saveit for a day that will never come and build the 360-based stroker
• 4. Save my money. Don't need another big hunk of cast iron taking up space. Stick to the previous 360-based plan.

Don't just have 300 bucks to burn, so option 3 won't happen.

If I'm doing a stroker, I see no reason to "waste" a 340 block. The 8 additional cubes aren't worth it. But having the 340 block can make that a "game time decision" to be made once I open the old motor and see what I've got to work with.

[Ghoste]

Option 4.  Externally the two engines will look the same so there is no reason there for the 340.  The date code part is nice but it isn't numbers matching-if your goal was building the car with a strong eye to resale value the date code would be a factor.  You and I both know you want something to drive, resale is important to you but it's not the final goal (it's likely about 3rd or 4th even on the list).  Lastly, you are typically analytical and weighing options like this is not unexpected but I also notice you to be someone who becomes quite focused on end result.  In my mind you are passed the block analysis point and are ready to stay focused on the 360 stroker.

[471_Magnum]

Actually, the initial goal (even before I started this thread) was just to find a 340 block for a rebuild/reblock base on the current internals assuming they passed inspection. The stroker was just a dream.

Then as I priced things out depending on what internals might need to be replaced, it became apparent that stroking wouldn't be a huge cost up. If I'm buying forged pistons and reconditioning rods, the cost difference is about 500 bucks.

Meanwhile, my quest for a 340 block (that was reasonably priced) was coming up dry. Every 340 I found was already 30-over, or priced in the stratosphere. The 360 came up locally, and really really cheap, so that set me on a more definite course to build the stroker. That couple hundred bucks saved could go towards the stroker kit.

But... the stroker will snowball. I'm already trying to budget for better heads, etc.

And not that fuel economy has ever been much of a consideration, but the prospect of $4/gallon gas is on the horizon. Not sure I want another 70 cubic inches to feed. This is a car I like to drive regularly, and it gets double digit mpg around town currently. Doesn't need to run a 12 second quarter.

While the numbers / date code thing isn't important to me, it could be to a future buyer. Without getting into a value debate, a couple hundred bucks spent now will improve the marketability and possibly the value later.

Popping the oil pan off the 340 and seeing exactly what I've got to work with in there might make the picture clearer. Finding a forged crank and forged pistons could certainly sway me towards a budget friendly 340 rebuild. Perhaps that needs to be a project for the coming week.

[Ghoste]

Your car toy goals have changed somewhat but I very much get it.

[471_Magnum]

Yeah... there is this reality of a household budget that consistently crushes my automotive dreams.

[firefighter3931]

Stroke the 360 

In the grand scheme of things the cost of fuel is a non issue. It's not like this is going to be a daily driver. KamKuda's 408 gets pretty descent milage from what i remember. The stroker is just humming along at 2500 and right in the sweet spot. 



Ron

[471_Magnum]

No, gas mileage is not so much of an economic factor as it is a psychological one. I live eight miles from town. In the typical big block car, a trip to the hardware store can burn almost two gallons of fuel.

Haven't checked the mileage on the Roadrunner, but a tank of fuel last a whole lot longer than it ever did in any of my big block cars. Runs on 89 octane to boot. Makes it a little easier to enjoy the hobby.

Assuming I stroke the 360, I am a little concerned with the CR. 9.8:1 and iron heads is definitely pushing it in a heavy car. 3.55 gears will help, but I've got a poor man's overdrive (2.76 gears) sitting in the corner of the garage should the Power Tour bug strike again. That would just exacerbate the problem.

I'm eyeballing a set of secondhand E'brock heads, but there's that snowball factor again.

[Ghoste]

I'll vouch for the number of miles he will put on in a year.  It may not be a daily driver but it sure won't gather much dust either.

[471_Magnum]

Machine shop called the other day. Block has been cleaned and magnafluxed. It's cleared the first hurdle. Now it's decision time.

At this point I'm heavily leaning towards the Scat cast crank stroker build re-using my J-heads. Might upgrade to some RHS heads or E'brocks sometime down the road if a stumble across a smoking deal.

[471_Magnum]

Sold the 360 block. Figured I test the market to see if I could make my money back on it, and WHAM, I get a buyer within a couple hours of posting the ad.

So now I've got the choice of 340 or 416.

[firefighter3931]

So now I've got the choice of 340 or 416.

416 is the only choice 


Ron

[471_Magnum]

I'm back to square one. Closer inspection on the 340 block I was going to purchase revealed an issue similar to my current block. The driver side dowel pin is busted out. The block is repairable, and maybe even usable as-is, but it's just not worth the trouble, nor a good investment. Easier to find another block.

I've got the option of repurchasing the 360 block, but I'm going to poke around a bit for another while I'm still in the fund raising stage of the project.

[firefighter3931]

I've got the option of repurchasing the 360 block, but I'm going to poke around a bit for another while I'm still in the fund raising stage of the project.

I'd get that 360 block ASAP....then order up the 4in stroker kit ! 


Ron

[Rolling_Thunder]

agreed - 360 block -  sell the 340 block and you'll almost make the same money as you did selling the 360 ---   externally they look the same...      stroke it (getting rid of the external balance BS) and have fun with it...     

[Daytona R/T SE]

Jim, Our leader Troy has a steel crank 340 for sale in the "Parts and accessories for sale" section...

[471_Magnum]

Jim, Our leader Troy has a steel crank 340 for sale in the "Parts and accessories for sale" section...

I know. Don't need a complete motor though.

[Daytona R/T SE]

Buy it anyway and sell off what you don't need...

[471_Magnum]

Drug home another 360 block this morning. Found it locally. STD bore 72 casting. 75 bucks.

I'll take it to the machine shop next week.

[471_Magnum]

Game on.

Tax refund hit the bank account yesterday. Brought the 360 block to the machine shop today.

Next decision I need to make is which piston to use. Have to decide between the dished offerings from Icon, Mahle and SRP. The offerings from Diamond, Ross, JE, and Wiseco all are significantly more expensive.

Icons (KB745) are relatively heavy compared to the Mahle (SBM460030I28) and SRP (SRP220157) pistons. They come in at 635 grams w/pin (advertised) versus 600 on the other two. Consequently, I've pretty much eliminated them from the running.

The Mahles have a HUGE 28 cc dish, which would really drop the CR. They also run 5 thou shorter on the CH. With 70 cc heads, it would be around 8.8:1 if I decked the block to 9.585". The SRPs have a 17 cc dish, which will put me at 9.6:1 with the block decked to 9.590".

I'll be running the open chambered J-heads for now, but I'm building the short block for good quench for if I ever change to closed chambered heads.

[firefighter3931]

The SRP's with a 17cc dish is the clear winner 


Ron

[471_Magnum]

Picked up a couple of odds and ends for the project yesterday in Indy. No really big purchases. Just block hardware, cam bearings and a second-hand lifter valley windage tray.

Just missed out on a Milodon oil pan.

I also lustfully groped and fondled some RHS cylinder heads, but those are going to have to wait. Man they look nice though. Maybe next March.

No smoking deals to be found in Indy on rotating assemblies, so I'll start ordering those parts. Just clicked off on a set of the SRP pistons listed on ebay. I'll order the crank, rods, bearings and rings tomorrow.

[471_Magnum]

The pretty parts have begun to arrive. Today the rods and bearings showed-up. These Scat rods are nicer than expected. Not quite as pretty as a set of H-beams, but lighter, and a whole lot less expensive.

Had hoped to get the crank and pistons today, but I guess they will get here tomorrow. The plan had been to drop the pistons off at the machine shop so they could do the finish bore. If the UPS man stops by early enough tomorrow, I might still get that done.

This weekend I'll chamfer the bearings. Once the finish bore is complete, I'll bring the block home and mock it up to check rod clearance and deck.

Things should start moving along.

[471_Magnum]

Crank showed up Friday, but the pistons did not.

Discovered the piston were actually shipping from CA, not FL as advertised, hence the delay. They will be here tomorrow (Monday).

Looks as if chamfering the bearings may not be required, at least on the mains. Narrow bearings look as if they will have ample side clearance. I'll check them closer at dry assembly.

[firefighter3931]

I like Scat stuff...quality parts that won't break the bank ! 

There's a Scat 4.15 stroker crank & 6.76 H-beams as well as Diamond reverse dome pistons sitting on my shelf for a future 493 stroker project. 


Ron

[471_Magnum]

I've heard one too many horror stories about Eagle failures, particularly on their cast cranks and SIR rods, I went with Scat. Scat is just a bit more expensive but worth it for the piece of mind. I ordered most everything from CNC-Motorsports.

Hopefully I'll see some good progress on the block tomorrow.

[firefighter3931]

I can't comment on the Eagle cast parts but their forged cranks/rods are descent for the money. My 572 has an Eagle 4.5 crank and 7.1 h-beam rods with the bolt upgrade. That stuff is fine to the 900-1000hp range, inmo.

For sure the Scat parts are better quality because they are finish machined here in North America 


Ron

[471_Magnum]

My 471 had Eagle H-beams, running nowhere near their HP limit. No problems there. Lots of issues reported on the SIR rods though. Of course, much of that is just the internet rumor mill doing it's thing.

Missed my pistons today. Nobody answered the door for the UPS man. The wife now knows not to let that happen again.

[471_Magnum]

Is there anything purdier than a new set of forged pistons?

[firefighter3931]

Is there anything purdier than a new set of forged pistons?

Those are purty ! 

Should rev like a banshee with those slugs ! 


Ron

[471_Magnum]

Dropped off the pistons at the machine shop yesterday. They'll bore it next week and then I'll bring everything home for mock-up, before for taking it all back for decking and balancing.

Maybe... just maybe... I'll be doing final assembly by next month.

[471_Magnum]

Machine shop called today. The block is ready to come home for the initial mock-up. Going to have to put in a couple of late nights, but I might be able to get it back there by the end of the week (for decking, and installations of cam bearings, freeze plugs etc, as well as balancing). Might be doing final assembly on the short block by next weekend.

Woo hoo!

Financial realities might dictate I slow the pace a bit though. Need to bank another paycheck or two before I buy the last of the parts to finish the build-up.

[471_Magnum]

Brought the block home a few days ago. Did a mock-up to check rod bolt clearance, and to check the deck height.

No issues with rod bolt clearance, but it's going to need to go back for 10-15 thou off the deck.

Spent a few hours today giving it the poor man's shot blasting. Went to work on it with the wire wheel to remove all the remaining rust. Also chased out all the bolt holes and knocked off some flash.

Tonight I'll file-fit the rings and then it will be ready to go back to the shop for the remaining machine work and balancing. I might just sit on it this week though.

My cam kit also arrived the other day. I've since had second thoughts for that cam. I really think it's going to be overkill with my stock heads. In addition, it's not going to work with my stock springs. Double springs are recommended and that would require work to the spring seats.

So.... I think that cam kit is going to sit on the shelf until I make the investment in a set of RHS heads. Barring an unforeseen financial windfall, that will NOT happen this year.

Once I get the 340 apart, I'll take a look at the cam in there. I might just take the cheap way out and poke it into the 410.

[471_Magnum]

Everything has been to the machine shop and back again. It's already for assembly.

1750 on the bobweight. ZING!

Installed the pistons on the rods tonight. Block and crank both need a bath before I can start the serious assembly. Maybe Saturday.

[471_Magnum]

Running into an issue. Installed the crank the other night and it's not spinning as freely as I would expect:
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=QuestionAnswer&Number=6584197&fpart=1&PHPSESSID=

[471_Magnum]

After consulting with a few other engine builders, I went ahead and assembled the bottom end a little tighter than I would have liked. It's well within factory specs, but I'm use to putting cranks in on the loose side. My clearance is about .0017. On my big blocks I've always run around .0025.

Got the pistons and rods installed as well now. Deck came out perfect.

As you can see from the photos, the 4" stroker crank uses-up every bit of realestate inside that block. No clearancing required though.

Waiting on the cam now. I had initially ordered the Comp XE275HL, but after looking closer at my valve lift limitations, I sent it back and exchanged it for a XE274H. Almost identical cam timing with less lift (.491/.480 vs .525/.525). I don't think I'll notice the difference on the butt dyno. Anyway, should have the cam in the next couple of days.

Also need to make a decision on the oil pan. I had planned to run a factory pan and try to fit in a windage tray. No-go on the factory windage tray though. Just can't clear the rods. So now I'm debating whether or not to spring for the Kevko pan and pick-up, or make due with just a factory pan. As long as I stick with the standard oil pump, the factory pan will be fine, but the extra insurance would be nice.

[firefighter3931]

Nice progress 


Ron

[471_Magnum]

Still waiting for my replacement cam. I'm at a standstill right now. Not much available time to work on it anyway.

Had some interested in purchasing the 340 as a long block. That would be just the cash injection this project would need to finance a set of RHS heads. I doubt that deal is going to materialize though.

[471_Magnum]

Due to the accident, the project was put on hold for about a week. I did get my replacement cam though, and I have ordered a Kevko oil pan and pick-up.

I did get the appraisal out of the way today which allowed me to get going on pulling the old motor. I drained the coolant and removed the radiator tonight. Got some friends coming over tomorrow or the next day to help get the hood off. I should be ready to pull the motor by the weekend.

After that I'll probably spend a week transferring parts and detailing everything. The collision repair work will probably be going on simultaneously.

[471_Magnum]

Got the old motor out today and started to tear it down. Here's what I found.

Forged crank, and cast pistons. Block is 30 over. Cross-hatching looks fresh. Pistons about 40 thou in the hole (just eyeballing it). Got some carbon build-up, but otherwise the motor looks fresh. Not sure what it's really worth with the broken corner on the block.

Best news is that the J-heads look good. They've got 2.02 valves and hardened exhaust seats. Now I don't feel near so bad about compromising and not springing for a set of RHS/Indy X-heads. Not ruling it out completely though. Definitely an option down the road a bit if not sooner.

I'll disassemble the heads tomorrow and bring them to the machine shop Monday. Just going to have them cleaned and checked for flatness. Once I get them back I'll do a little light porting on them, just blend the bowels and match the openings.

My Kevko pan arrived yesterday, so other than some fresh fasteners here and there, and new hoses, that pretty much completes all the purchases for the new motor.

[471_Magnum]

I disassembled the J-heads tonight. They are a bit crustier than I originally thought. Lots of carbon on the intake valves. Couple of the valve tips some very small chips on them. Springs look kind of tired. They've obviously got a bunch of miles on them.

How much money do I want to sink into these things before I just say screw-it and spring for new ones?... 

[471_Magnum]

I brought the old heads in for a valve job. No sooner had I done that and I get a reply back regarding another set of heads I've been negotiating to purchase.

These heads are fresh J-heads with 100% new components including stainless valves and the correct springs for my cam. Not RHS heads, but they are a nice compromise. Anyway, I was able to put the brakes on the valve job and should get the new ones today.

Meanwhile I installed the cam last night and am trying to get it degreed. I build just enough motors to remember how to do this and screw it up the first time. I ran out of energy last night but will get the cam finished tonight or tomorrow. From there is should come together pretty quickly. I do still have to clean and detail the engine bay though, as well as paint and detail the engine, so I'm still a little ways off from installing the motor.

[471_Magnum]

The motor is now pretty much finished, to the point I've got it primed and installed anyway. Painted it this weekend and primed it the other night. Had a couple of minor glitches. The main issue was I couldn't get the motor to prime. Turns out the oil pump wasn't installed squarely and I couldn't get my priming shaft in the pump drive. Had to pull the pan to figure that out. Now the pan is leaking slightly. That repair can wait until after break in through.

So last night I dropped the motor in. Still have a long way to go before break-in, especially considering I need to complete the collision repairs first. Need to take a couple of days off since the wife is taking over the garage the next few days for a rummage sale.

[Ghoste]

That's good news on the engine then at least.  Our mutual friend dropped his new 428 into his 69 Ford this week so we are hoping to fire that thing up this weekend.

[471_Magnum]

It's all back together, including the collision repair.

Had a delay due to exhaust issues. Lesson learned: Pypes kits are crap.

I finished installing the TTi exhaust tonight. Tomorrow evening we'll break-in the cam. Then I'll need to install the inner valve springs, so if all goes well, I'll be flogging on it Thursday night or Friday.

[471_Magnum]

Got the new motor fired up tonight, but not without incident.

Started up right away. Probably the easiest new motor start up I've ever done.

Then it quickly went to SH!T.

Fired up with the oil pressure rising and ran it up to 2500 rpm, and then the oil pressure dropped to zero. I got it shut down within a couple of seconds.

Got out of the car to investigate and found oil running out from below the right side of the motor. Further investigation revealed the gasket on the 90 degree filter adapter blew out, dumping about 4 quarts on the ground via the header.

I just removed the adapter and went back to a short filter with the factory set-up. I'll sort out that adapter later.

Got the motor re-fired with no apparent damage from the brief oil starvation. No temperature or pressure issues. No leaks either.  The rest of the break-in was uneventful.

Draining the break-in oil now. Tomorrow I'll install the inner valve springs and hopefully get to drive it. Probably be Friday before I get it on the road. Big cruise-in on Saturday, so I definitely want to get it debugged and tuned up in the next day or so.