converting to 4speed

[Mrs.Caveman]

hi!

don't wanna sound stupid but what do i need exactly to convert from auto to 4speed!how difficult is it and how much would it set me back!
looks like i cant find a 4speed car for a right price so just wanna convert a auto!

I'm sure you guys know exactly what i need and where can i get them!if anyone can write them down for me that would be great!

thank you

BR,Veronika

[Piston_Freddy]

Pointless IMO, automatic is always quicker. I have always driven manual and my Charger is my first auto car! I f*cking hate manual transmission, never again!

http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=5006.0

[Mrs.Caveman]

oh,clearly you dont like manual!i thought you could have more fun with a manual!beside i have never driven automatic and i wouldnt drive my car a lot in traffic just cruising and burning some rubber!dont want something else change gar for me!but thats just me!

thanks a lot for the info

Br,Veronika

[Piston_Freddy]

Yeah I'm one of those europeans who hates manual trans.
Here's a great thread: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,9234.0.html

[Cooter]

I wouldn't be too sure bout that "Auto is quicker" stuff....One name comes to mind here....Ronnie Sox...Another "Dandy", Dick Landy....

Another Herb McCandless "Mr. 4-speed"...

A manual trans car will be the quicker if all else is equal...(More power to the rear wheels)...

Veronica, it isn't all that "hard" to convert, but you will need some pretty expensive parts depending on how you view Expensive. Of course, you can get the complete "kit" using everything used from a donor car From places Like Tony's Parts, including a REBUILT A833 4-speed for like $3500.00..........Alot more parts to 4-speed than auto..

Now that being said, I have successfully converted a B-Body to 4-speed for WAY under that..You will need basically,
1. 4-speed trans most likely a 23 spline unit.
2. Clutch Pedals and linkages  all the way out to the bellhousing..
3. Small Block/Big Block, Bell housing, depending on which you are running
4. Floor "Hump" (Shifter and linkage cover for the floor pan)
5. Shifter boot and trim ring
6. Shifter handle
7. Shifter
8. 4-speed Driveshaft
9. Manual Flywheel either 10.5" or 11" MUST USE SAME DIA. Bell Housing (10.5" with 10.5" Clutch Vise versa)

[Charger-Bodie]

Pointless IMO, automatic is always quicker. I have always driven manual and my Charger is my first auto car! I f*cking hate manual transmission, never again!

http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=5006.0

Quicker yes. More fun .....Not to me. 

[squeakfinder]

 So many automatic cars came with higher gears. Some work to the rear end might be necessary to get a lower more suitable gear ratio.

[BIGBLCK11]

You will also need a 66-69 4 speed crossmember or a converted automatic crossmember. Checkout http://www.brewersperformance.com/, lots of info, kits and parts.  Not the cheapest, but nice quality, very helpful, friendly and all in one place!

If you get a 70 , the crossmember is the same for auto/manual, but the 833 trans has to be 70 and up too.

[RallyeMike]

.. and a few other things to consider:

If column shift do you need to convert the steering column?

Is your engine crank drilled for a pilot bushing? If not are you willing to run a conversion bearing and chop the input shaft on your nice A833.

8. 4-speed Driveshaft

er... What's a "4-speed Driveshaft" ?

[Mrs.Caveman]

thanks guys for the info!

if its under$3,5k i could live with it!i always pictures my charger manual but a lot of you say auto is better!I'm sure in town where there are a lot of traffic is better!but just think about that i drive bikes!use to race motocross as a hobby before my daughter was born and my first big bike was a ducat monster only a 600 then Kawasaki GP500,BR600f3,Suzuki sex 750k5 and ducat 996!now they are all gone in favour to the charger except the Kaia!i wouldn't drive them with auto trans like a scooter!you can pull a wheel with a scooter but not the same when you pull it with a sex so starting from that i thought i would love to drive a manual charger!unfortunately never seen let alone drive a charger so cant tell!drove a mustang '67 fastback a few times with auto tr any!loved the sound and the v8 but the transmission would have been better with manual!

my dad is a mechanic and he converted some ricer from auto to manual so i thought if i wanna change the tr any all i need is the parts he would do it for me!

BR,Veronika

[doctor4766]

I could be wrong here, but I'm guessing that the clutch on one of these cars will be quite heavy on your legs, but I haven't driven a manual Charger. (Plenty of other V8 manual cars though.)
Think you're up to it Veronika?

[Mrs.Caveman]

huups,i wanted to write suzuki gsxr not sex,the spell check done something!sorry

[Mrs.Caveman]

i heard the clutch is heavy on them but im up for it!will get used to it!don't wanna sound cocky but that cant be that hard,can it?as i said i have never driven one before but drove really old Russian military cars and if you can describe them with one word i would use simple!a lot of you are against them and a lot of you are in favour in them!i guess it's up to each preference!it's like on my 996 clutch is really heavy compare to the gsxr!i guess wont need to work on my left leg in the gym then

BR,Veronika

[Charger-Bodie]

There are plenty of ways to defiet heavy clutch effort. Hyd. clutch. Diaphram pressure plate.

[elacruze]

oh,clearly you dont like manual!i thought you could have more fun with a manual!beside i have never driven automatic and i wouldnt drive my car a lot in traffic just cruising and burning some rubber!dont want something else change gar for me!but thats just me!

thanks a lot for the info

Br,Veronika

"Torque Converters are for Construction Equipment"

[Piston_Freddy]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M8yiuvuqJw0   
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t4rgxrR4bj4&feature=related

[elacruze]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M8yiuvuqJw0   
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t4rgxrR4bj4&feature=related

LOL those are some seriously ignorant replies below the vid.

Anyway, since street racing is illegal, I figger the target is more fun and enjoyment than the fastest car. 

[Piston_Freddy]

i heard the clutch is heavy on them but im up for it!will get used to it!don't wanna sound cocky but that cant be that hard,can it?as i said i have never driven one before but drove really old Russian military cars and if you can describe them with one word i would use simple!a lot of you are against them and a lot of you are in favour in them!i guess it's up to each preference!it's like on my 996 clutch is really heavy compare to the gsxr!i guess wont need to work on my left leg in the gym then

BR,Veronika

Clutch will be harder than most Russian(Lada,Volga...) cars, I drove a Gaz 21(Russian version of a 52-54 Ford) daily last year and it drove lot nicer then my Charger! Only problem was that it didn't go when I pressed the gas pedal.Charger drives like a dump truck with the hard suspension,sloppy steering and no braking what so ever.I'm not disappointed or anything but that's how it is, just a heads up.

[Troy]

Ok, here's an updated copy of my long-standing list:

You can buy the complete conversion setup from Brewer's or Passon Performance. When I checked (a long time ago so I know prices are $00+ higher now) Brewer's was $3100 (no shipping since I live close) and Passon was over $3500. It's much cheaper to find your own but more time consuming. Many of these parts are still available from Mopar, Summit, Jegs, Keisler, Mcleod, Lakewood, Hays, Ram, and Mancini or you can find them used at places like Tony's parts, swap meets, or online.

Items that can be bought NEW:
pedal assembly (Keisler and maybe AMD now)
pushrod boot
z-bar
frame pivot bracket (cheap and needs welded so a donor can be a pain)
pivot balls (all z-bar hardware including clips comes in a kit)
adjuster link (kit contains rod and hardware)
bellhousing - race (not stock looking), iron repro, or aluminum repro
release bearing (obvious I hope)
clutch assembly (pressure plate, clutch, and bearing)
flywheel - varying weights for race applications too
flywheel bolts (package of 6 or 8 depending on application)
floor hump
shifter mechanism
shifter handle
inspection cover - you can find them in steel (correct but $$$ or plastic)
firewall bracket
reverse indicator light (in the dash)
wiring harness (Bill Evans)
clutch rod boot
release fork
fork boot
transmission mount
shifter mount
shifter boot and chrome bezel
carpet

Items that can be found rebuilt/reconditioned:
pedal assembly
pushrod
transmission - 18 or 23 spline (double the price for an 18)
bellhousing - 11" iron 262 or 626 casting or you can use the smaller aluminum bell on 70 models I believe
shifter assemblies (much more expensive than new it seems)

Console:
console shell - repros now available!!! Stinger (fiberglass) or L&P/Tony's Parts (plastic)
top plate (Yikes! $$$)
wiring
chrome trim (repro $200 - real $$$)
carpet
cardboard(?) hump
brackets (used or AMD)

Troy

[Mrs.Caveman]

thanks guys!

as 1hotdaytona said there are ways to make it lighter the clutch!so there is no need to worry about it then,is there!
dont care which one is the quickest i just want to feeling of it!

Br,Veronika

[Chatt69chgr]

My thoughts on this:  10.5 inch clutch is what was used on 70 and up and is the way to go since it's cheaper.  Stay away from 11 inch--costs a lot more.  Aluminum bell housing is way to go.   Get from Brewers.  Centerforce for clutch (diaphram type) and flywheel.  23 spline plenty good for up to 600 hp and is 1/2 of 18 spline.  You can convert the transmission crossmember from an auto to manual yourself.  I decided to not install the center console.  Am just using the rubber accordian piece with trim ring.  Got Hurst shifter assembly from Summit new.  Drive shaft is same length for auto bb with 727 and A833.  For just regular driving, 7260 yokes OK.  7290's are stronger.  With 3.23 gear in rear end you can probably cruise on interstate OK.  3.55 will end up with engine rpm around 3000 at 70mph.  Not sure if you have the floor type auto shift mechanism or the column type.  If column shift, the steering column can be converted to the manual appearance type with some work.  I bought some stuff from Brewers and can recommend them.  They are good folks and have a good website.  Are willing to help you on the phone.  You have to weld the ball tab for the Z-bar to the left frame rail.  Position is not exact so you have to determine it after the engine/bell/trans is installed.  Pedal assemblies are available from Brewers and price seems good.  Brewers has the rebuild kit for the A833.  Zubrota Bearing and Gear has all of the gears available.  Check your crankshaft to see if it was drilled for a manual trans.  some are not drilled.  you either have to take it to a machine shop for this after removing the crank from the engine or use the bearing that brewer (and MOPAR) has that fits into the register at the end of the crank for the torque converter.  Yours may be drilled but not reamed.  If thats the case, you can use the bearing mentioned and let the input shaft stick into the drilled hole.  O/W, you will have to cut the end of your input shaft off.  Both ball or needle bearing or bronze bushing type bearings are available for both installations.  Some say that if the ball bearing ever seizes that it will gall and destroy the input shaft so prefer the bronze bushing.  I'm not sure about this but I think you can just add the clutch pedal and bracket to your existing brake pedal assembly.  Will have to change the brake pedal itself to narrower type.  Finally, there is a stiffener plate that goes on the engine side of the firewall that the bolts form the clutch pedal assembly utilize.  I've seen it for sale so it's available aftermarket. 

[six-tee-nine]

Depends on what you want........ I like to keep things a little date code correct.... so on a 69 that means a gear box tailshaft with a single shifter mounting position, a 68-69 trans crossmember and a 11" bellhousing/clutch setup.
And just to have it all like it should I'll be adding a Dana 60 to the list too since my car was an original R/T

But hey maybe I'm a bit of a masochist on the subject (everyone willing to drive a 4-speed is one, I guess)

[Mrs.Caveman]

to each his owen,isnt it?i personaly love the shape,sound and power of the car!not interested about number matching or date correct stuff!if i were collecting them then yeah of course it has to be correct but im just here to enjoy and drive the hell out of her! unfortunately here in Hungary the rules are a bit strick and my car has to be number matching!

Veronika

[stripedelete]

to each his owen,isnt it?i personaly love the shape,sound and power of the car!not interested about number matching or date correct stuff!if i were collecting them then yeah of course it has to be correct but im just here to enjoy and drive the hell out of her! unfortunately here in Hungary the rules are a bit strick and my car has to be number matching!

Veronika

Confused.   "Number matching" in order to import the car?  Or it has to remain numbers matching in Hungary.   And, does "numbers matching" include the transmission?

[Piston_Freddy]

So Hungary is only country with that stupid law? Other European country's don't have this law I'm pretty sure! So if your car engine block throws a rod or something, then what?

[Troy]

You have to weld the ball tab for the Z-bar to the left frame rail.  Position is not exact so you have to determine it after the engine/bell/trans is installed.

Actually, the factory marked the frame rail where the bracket needs to go.

Brewer's is close to me and they do have a really good reputation. Calling from Hungary may get expensive though.

Troy

[Mrs.Caveman]

i know other countries dont have that law!ok i make it clear this!i CAN import it over here and register as any car from anywhere with any engines!so if it doesnt have a number matching number then i still can register it as any cars!BUT and it's a big BUT i would have to pass the normal european emission rules then would have to pay a lot of taxes,like road tax and the insurance would be a huge amount!because its a v8 and got5700cc they dont like it over here for some reason !and a bunch of other stuff i would have to pay for her!trust me if it was that easy i wouldnt worry about number matching stuff!would have bought one ages months ago!

i can register her as an oldtimer which is 30+year old cars can be!that gives me the privilage to free roadtax and tax after the weight of the car,the insurance would be10%of the normal price if i just registred her as any other car!they say the car has to be 80%original and the engine and the trany has to be original!

there is one more way to register her without the original engine and its called an international registration!but they are way more strick then the oldtimer registration rules!the car has to be like when it came off the assembly line!now,i cant affored to have a car like that or restaural that!

so it comes down to money!i know its an expensive hobby we have but why would i pay more then i need to!oh and a liter/not gallon/ of petrol is$2dollars almost!

i wish it was easier to get my dream car!

hope it clears everything out!oh,one more thing!if the block throws a rod or something then i dont know to be honest!i guess after register her that really doesnt matter!they say the car at least has to have a date correct engine or parts!

i heard they refused one guy for changing the electric system from 6v to 12v!or someone have a different windshild wiper on his car!

[Chatt69chgr]

six-tee-nine-------what I recommended was kind of a compromise considering hard to find parts, costs, etc.  In my particular case, I'm like you.  I am using a 11 inch clutch setup with correct cast iron bell housing and about a month ago got in on a pallet my new Strange S60 set up for 3.54 and Detroit tru-trac with tapered roller bearings and mopar hats on end of tubes.  I'm going with 10 inch Mopar drums on the rear with 13/16 inch bore wheel cyl instead of the 15/16 std.  And I secured the correct 69 manual crossmember but thought I would indicate that one could modify their auto version.  And my tailshaft is the correct one----but this may end up being a moot point if I buy the Gearvendors OD that I have been looking at.

Troy------you said that the frame rail was marked.  do you have a picture of what to look for, that is, what does the mark look like.  I think the weld-on tab is located about center with the access hole in the rear of the inner drivers fender.  It would make sense that it would be marked since I would assume that the factory welded on this tab before they installed the engine/transmission.  but should one trust the mark?  if it were off, your z-bar would't be oriented correctly.

[BIGBLCK11]

I was told that 71 and up has a little notch on the frame, which corresponds to the little tab on the bracket. But for 70 and back you have to grind that tab off, the part just works for multiple years that way.  I believe Brewer's told me that.  If I am recalling wrong, please do not quote me, I do not want to misrepresent them in any way.


update - called Brewer's just to make sure.  He said he has never seen a marked frame rail on the 70 and older and you have to grind the tab off of the reproduction ballstud frame bracket.

[Troy]

Um, well, not to disagree with Wayne but every one of my cars (68) has the same mark on the frame. It is a 'V' shaped notch. Believe me, the assembly line workers needed some way to locate it (look at all the dimples in the firewall and other places around the car) since it would have been attached early on in the unibody construction. Speed (and partially accuracy) was the key. Technically, you don't have to use it - just center the bracket up with the adjustment hole in the inner fender. The Z-bar has a "ball" on the end you you don't need to be exact. You are correct on the bracket itself - there's a tab on bottom that has to be ground off.

I use the stock 11" bell housings although many people have recommended a scatter shield instead for safety. A 10.5" clutch has the same (or nearly the same) surface area so the lighter weight is a bonus if you go that way. You'll need the correct linkages if you do.

Yes, auto cross members can be converted to work with a 4-speed. More cutting/grinding.

Troy

[Chatt69chgr]

Thanks to all for the info.  I didn't know that you had to grind the tab off the bottom of the ballstud mount.  Makes sense to center on the access hole.  Would be interesting to hear from owners of original 4-speed cars as to where their ballstud mount is positioned relative to the fender access hole. 

[stripedelete]

i know other countries dont have that law!ok i make it clear this!i CAN import it over here and register as any car from anywhere with any engines!so if it doesnt have a number matching number then i still can register it as any cars!BUT and it's a big BUT i would have to pass the normal european emission rules then would have to pay a lot of taxes,like road tax and the insurance would be a huge amount!because its a v8 and got5700cc they dont like it over here for some reason !and a bunch of other stuff i would have to pay for her!trust me if it was that easy i wouldnt worry about number matching stuff!would have bought one ages months ago!

i can register her as an oldtimer which is 30+year old cars can be!that gives me the privilage to free roadtax and tax after the weight of the car,the insurance would be10%of the normal price if i just registred her as any other car!they say the car has to be 80%original and the engine and the trany has to be original!

there is one more way to register her without the original engine and its called an international registration!but they are way more strick then the oldtimer registration rules!the car has to be like when it came off the assembly line!now,i cant affored to have a car like that or restaural that!

so it comes down to money!i know its an expensive hobby we have but why would i pay more then i need to!oh and a liter/not gallon/ of petrol is$2dollars almost!

i wish it was easier to get my dream car!

hope it clears everything out!oh,one more thing!if the block throws a rod or something then i dont know to be honest!i guess after register her that really doesnt matter!they say the car at least has to have a date correct engine or parts!

i heard they refused one guy for changing the electric system from 6v to 12v!or someone have a different windshild wiper on his car!

Interesting.  It sounds easier to just relocate.

Sorry this is off topic but I gotta' ask, "how does a 2nd Gen Charger become the dream car for a young lady in Hungary?" (If the question is repetitious just send me to the thread)

[Mrs.Caveman]

like most of us,Dukes of Hazzard
i always loved cars helped my dad who is a mechanic working on cars!love their shape the sound of the v8 and the feeling of a musclecar!drove a 67 mustang fastback a few times and i just loved it!the whole feeling of it since you sit in it!you shut the door and it doesnt sound like these new plastic cars,no computer,abs and all those gizmos just an engine that made to be threshed around!it was an automatic but will never forget it!they played the doh here when i was a kid and i always watched it now they actually started to play them again on the TV museum Chanel and i watch every episode!the '69 has the sexiest ass and i just love them!never seen one in live or sit in it but i have been dreaming about it for ages!

my dream was when i get married i can drive to the church in my charger!that dream didn't work out when i got married9years ago and didn't even get married in the church but now i have met my true love and he makes my dream come true with some of my friends from this site!didnt wanna sound tearjerking too much!you asked heheehh....

my dream cars list:1.1969 dodge charger 2nd1969 charger 3rd 1967 Pontiac gto 4.1970-1973 Pontiac trans am/firebird 5.Eleanor gt500

[stripedelete]

like most of us,Dukes of Hazzard
i always loved cars helped my dad who is a mechanic working on cars!love their shape the sound of the v8 and the feeling of a musclecar!drove a 67 mustang fastback a few times and i just loved it!the whole feeling of it since you sit in it!you shut the door and it doesnt sound like these new plastic cars,no computer,abs and all those gizmos just an engine that made to be threshed around!it was an automatic but will never forget it!they played the doh here when i was a kid and i always watched it :drool5:now they actually started to play them again on the TV museum Chanel and i watch every episode!the '69 has the sexiest ass and i just love them!never seen one in live or sit in it but i have been dreaming about it for ages!

my dream was when i get married i can drive to the church in my charger!that dream didn't work out when i got married9years ago and didn't even get married in the church but now i have met my true love and he makes my dream come true with some of my friends from this site!didnt wanna sound tearjerking too much!you asked :nana:heheehh....

my dream cars list:1.1969 dodge charger 2nd1969 charger 3rd 1967 Pontiac gto 4.1970-1973 Pontiac trans am/firebird 5.Eleanor gt500

Very cool! Thanks for sharing.
I hope you find it.

[BIGBLCK11]

Um, well, not to disagree with Wayne but every one of my cars (68) has the same mark on the frame. It is a 'V' shaped notch. Believe me, the assembly line workers needed some way to locate it (look at all the dimples in the firewall and other places around the car) since it would have been attached early on in the unibody construction. Speed (and partially accuracy) was the key. Technically, you don't have to use it - just center the bracket up with the adjustment hole in the inner fender. The Z-bar has a "ball" on the end you you don't need to be exact. You are correct on the bracket itself - there's a tab on bottom that has to be ground off.

I use the stock 11" bell housings although many people have recommended a scatter shield instead for safety. A 10.5" clutch has the same (or nearly the same) surface area so the lighter weight is a bonus if you go that way. You'll need the correct linkages if you do.

Yes, auto cross members can be converted to work with a 4-speed. More cutting/grinding.

Troy

No problem, I'll take your word for it.  I didn't talk to Wayne, it was his son I believe.  I agree, a mark for the assembly line makes sense.  I hope it has a mark, then I can line it up w/o the motor and trans in place, if I pull it for some other work.  I do have the reinforcement bracket.  I was thinking more of a large plate or something when I read that, it is a pretty small bracket really.  I went with an 11" stock cast bellhousing, flywheel and z-bar all from the same car.

[Charger-Bodie]

A. Ive never had to grind anything off of the z bar bracket on any of the many Ive converted to manual transmission.

B. The locating marks are there,but if you grind it clean to weld it you will never see them. Clean it up carefully with a roloc disc or a fine wire wheel. OR simply use some manual labor and a piece of sand paper.

[six-tee-nine]

There has to be a marker point since auto or manual cars used the same frame rails. And you aint gonna make me believe that the factory welded that specific braket after engine and trans were mounted.

[Troy]

Thanks to all for the info.  I didn't know that you had to grind the tab off the bottom of the ballstud mount.  Makes sense to center on the access hole.  Would be interesting to hear from owners of original 4-speed cars as to where their ballstud mount is positioned relative to the fender access hole. 

I took pictures of mine yesterday but forgot to upload them so now I have to wait until I get home.

I also took pictures of the mark on the frame on both Chargers and one of the Challengers.

A. Ive never had to grind anything off of the z bar bracket on any of the many Ive converted to manual transmission.

Umm, I distinctly remember removing that tab on the bronze car. I'm positive I did it at your shop since I didn't make any modifications like that on my own.

Troy

[madmike]

Troy,

I am in the process of converting my 383 auto car to a 440 four speed.  It was interesting to hear your take on welding the frame mounted Z-bar bracket.  I have not purchased that part yet, but probably will from Brewer's.  I was wondering how to best locate that part before welding it.  Currently, the engine and transmission is sitting in the car, and I was going to 'mock it up' with the Z bar and frame bracket to best locate the bracket.

My only real concern is welding the bracket to the frame.  I'm not a welder, so I'll have to call a mobile welder guy in.  I'm worried that he might not have enough room to make the weld.  I have removed the drivers side header, valve cover, spark plugs, master cylinder (non-power) and steering column.  I'm guessing that part would be mig welded, and I think there's barely enough room to weld it in now.  Do you have any thoughts on this?  I'd sure hate to pull the engine and tranny, just to make this weld...

Others:

I always enjoy reading the comments concerning auto/manual trannys, which is faster, pedal effort, blah blah blah...  As one guy pointed out, if you get the right guy behind a four speed, he can give the autos a run for their money, no problem.  It takes way more talent to drag race a stick car, vs auto.  I have way more admiration for the guy who competes with a stick.  When I bought this rolling basket case, I almost didn't buy it because it was a factory auto.  I have converted several cars from auto to manual, and I figured I could change this one too.  I've never owned a Charger before, but I couldn't imagine having fun driving one with an automatic.  Boring!

Concerning pedal effort:  Get real, be a man, step up and jam!  If it's tough, be tougher!

Mike

[Charger-Bodie]

Thanks to all for the info.  I didn't know that you had to grind the tab off the bottom of the ballstud mount.  Makes sense to center on the access hole.  Would be interesting to hear from owners of original 4-speed cars as to where their ballstud mount is positioned relative to the fender access hole. 

I took pictures of mine yesterday but forgot to upload them so now I have to wait until I get home.

I also took pictures of the mark on the frame on both Chargers and one of the Challengers.

A. Ive never had to grind anything off of the z bar bracket on any of the many Ive converted to manual transmission.

Umm, I distinctly remember removing that tab on the bronze car. I'm positive I did it at your shop since I didn't make any modifications like that on my own.

Troy

Maybe Im in the middle of a brain fart then,but what tab are we talkingabout then?

[Troy]

Brian (1HotDaytona) welded mine but the car is pretty much stripped down to the shell. There's no room behind the bracket even when the engine bay is empty so all the welds are along the front edge (I believe). When I post the pictures later it may be clearer. I have no idea if you can reach that area with the engine in place.

Another option is to use a hydraulic clutch/TO bearing. No brackets or linkages to mess with!

Troy

[BIGBLCK11]

Here's the tab.



Can you get in behind it at all to weld the backside via the access panel behind the driver's front wheel, which is for getting to the back of the ballstud?

[Charger-Bodie]

Oh yes that tab. Yes that needs to be ground off. Sorry. Some of them dont have that tab by the way.