converting to 4speed

[Mrs.Caveman]

hi!

don't wanna sound stupid but what do i need exactly to convert from auto to 4speed!how difficult is it and how much would it set me back!
looks like i cant find a 4speed car for a right price so just wanna convert a auto!

I'm sure you guys know exactly what i need and where can i get them!if anyone can write them down for me that would be great!

thank you

BR,Veronika

[Piston_Freddy]

Pointless IMO, automatic is always quicker. I have always driven manual and my Charger is my first auto car! I f*cking hate manual transmission, never again!

http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=5006.0

[Mrs.Caveman]

oh,clearly you dont like manual!i thought you could have more fun with a manual!beside i have never driven automatic and i wouldnt drive my car a lot in traffic just cruising and burning some rubber!dont want something else change gar for me!but thats just me!

thanks a lot for the info

Br,Veronika

[Piston_Freddy]

Yeah I'm one of those europeans who hates manual trans.
Here's a great thread: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,9234.0.html

[Cooter]

I wouldn't be too sure bout that "Auto is quicker" stuff....One name comes to mind here....Ronnie Sox...Another "Dandy", Dick Landy....

Another Herb McCandless "Mr. 4-speed"...

A manual trans car will be the quicker if all else is equal...(More power to the rear wheels)...

Veronica, it isn't all that "hard" to convert, but you will need some pretty expensive parts depending on how you view Expensive. Of course, you can get the complete "kit" using everything used from a donor car From places Like Tony's Parts, including a REBUILT A833 4-speed for like $3500.00..........Alot more parts to 4-speed than auto..

Now that being said, I have successfully converted a B-Body to 4-speed for WAY under that..You will need basically,
1. 4-speed trans most likely a 23 spline unit.
2. Clutch Pedals and linkages  all the way out to the bellhousing..
3. Small Block/Big Block, Bell housing, depending on which you are running
4. Floor "Hump" (Shifter and linkage cover for the floor pan)
5. Shifter boot and trim ring
6. Shifter handle
7. Shifter
8. 4-speed Driveshaft
9. Manual Flywheel either 10.5" or 11" MUST USE SAME DIA. Bell Housing (10.5" with 10.5" Clutch Vise versa)

[Charger-Bodie]

Pointless IMO, automatic is always quicker. I have always driven manual and my Charger is my first auto car! I f*cking hate manual transmission, never again!

http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=5006.0

Quicker yes. More fun .....Not to me. 

[squeakfinder]

 So many automatic cars came with higher gears. Some work to the rear end might be necessary to get a lower more suitable gear ratio.

[BIGBLCK11]

You will also need a 66-69 4 speed crossmember or a converted automatic crossmember. Checkout http://www.brewersperformance.com/, lots of info, kits and parts.  Not the cheapest, but nice quality, very helpful, friendly and all in one place!

If you get a 70 , the crossmember is the same for auto/manual, but the 833 trans has to be 70 and up too.

[RallyeMike]

.. and a few other things to consider:

If column shift do you need to convert the steering column?

Is your engine crank drilled for a pilot bushing? If not are you willing to run a conversion bearing and chop the input shaft on your nice A833.

8. 4-speed Driveshaft

er... What's a "4-speed Driveshaft" ?

[Mrs.Caveman]

thanks guys for the info!

if its under$3,5k i could live with it!i always pictures my charger manual but a lot of you say auto is better!I'm sure in town where there are a lot of traffic is better!but just think about that i drive bikes!use to race motocross as a hobby before my daughter was born and my first big bike was a ducat monster only a 600 then Kawasaki GP500,BR600f3,Suzuki sex 750k5 and ducat 996!now they are all gone in favour to the charger except the Kaia!i wouldn't drive them with auto trans like a scooter!you can pull a wheel with a scooter but not the same when you pull it with a sex so starting from that i thought i would love to drive a manual charger!unfortunately never seen let alone drive a charger so cant tell!drove a mustang '67 fastback a few times with auto tr any!loved the sound and the v8 but the transmission would have been better with manual!

my dad is a mechanic and he converted some ricer from auto to manual so i thought if i wanna change the tr any all i need is the parts he would do it for me!

BR,Veronika

[doctor4766]

I could be wrong here, but I'm guessing that the clutch on one of these cars will be quite heavy on your legs, but I haven't driven a manual Charger. (Plenty of other V8 manual cars though.)
Think you're up to it Veronika?

[Mrs.Caveman]

huups,i wanted to write suzuki gsxr not sex,the spell check done something!sorry

[Mrs.Caveman]

i heard the clutch is heavy on them but im up for it!will get used to it!don't wanna sound cocky but that cant be that hard,can it?as i said i have never driven one before but drove really old Russian military cars and if you can describe them with one word i would use simple!a lot of you are against them and a lot of you are in favour in them!i guess it's up to each preference!it's like on my 996 clutch is really heavy compare to the gsxr!i guess wont need to work on my left leg in the gym then

BR,Veronika

[Charger-Bodie]

There are plenty of ways to defiet heavy clutch effort. Hyd. clutch. Diaphram pressure plate.

[elacruze]

oh,clearly you dont like manual!i thought you could have more fun with a manual!beside i have never driven automatic and i wouldnt drive my car a lot in traffic just cruising and burning some rubber!dont want something else change gar for me!but thats just me!

thanks a lot for the info

Br,Veronika

"Torque Converters are for Construction Equipment"

[Piston_Freddy]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M8yiuvuqJw0   
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t4rgxrR4bj4&feature=related

[elacruze]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M8yiuvuqJw0   
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t4rgxrR4bj4&feature=related

LOL those are some seriously ignorant replies below the vid.

Anyway, since street racing is illegal, I figger the target is more fun and enjoyment than the fastest car. 

[Piston_Freddy]

i heard the clutch is heavy on them but im up for it!will get used to it!don't wanna sound cocky but that cant be that hard,can it?as i said i have never driven one before but drove really old Russian military cars and if you can describe them with one word i would use simple!a lot of you are against them and a lot of you are in favour in them!i guess it's up to each preference!it's like on my 996 clutch is really heavy compare to the gsxr!i guess wont need to work on my left leg in the gym then

BR,Veronika

Clutch will be harder than most Russian(Lada,Volga...) cars, I drove a Gaz 21(Russian version of a 52-54 Ford) daily last year and it drove lot nicer then my Charger! Only problem was that it didn't go when I pressed the gas pedal.Charger drives like a dump truck with the hard suspension,sloppy steering and no braking what so ever.I'm not disappointed or anything but that's how it is, just a heads up.

[Troy]

Ok, here's an updated copy of my long-standing list:

You can buy the complete conversion setup from Brewer's or Passon Performance. When I checked (a long time ago so I know prices are $00+ higher now) Brewer's was $3100 (no shipping since I live close) and Passon was over $3500. It's much cheaper to find your own but more time consuming. Many of these parts are still available from Mopar, Summit, Jegs, Keisler, Mcleod, Lakewood, Hays, Ram, and Mancini or you can find them used at places like Tony's parts, swap meets, or online.

Items that can be bought NEW:
pedal assembly (Keisler and maybe AMD now)
pushrod boot
z-bar
frame pivot bracket (cheap and needs welded so a donor can be a pain)
pivot balls (all z-bar hardware including clips comes in a kit)
adjuster link (kit contains rod and hardware)
bellhousing - race (not stock looking), iron repro, or aluminum repro
release bearing (obvious I hope)
clutch assembly (pressure plate, clutch, and bearing)
flywheel - varying weights for race applications too
flywheel bolts (package of 6 or 8 depending on application)
floor hump
shifter mechanism
shifter handle
inspection cover - you can find them in steel (correct but $$$ or plastic)
firewall bracket
reverse indicator light (in the dash)
wiring harness (Bill Evans)
clutch rod boot
release fork
fork boot
transmission mount
shifter mount
shifter boot and chrome bezel
carpet

Items that can be found rebuilt/reconditioned:
pedal assembly
pushrod
transmission - 18 or 23 spline (double the price for an 18)
bellhousing - 11" iron 262 or 626 casting or you can use the smaller aluminum bell on 70 models I believe
shifter assemblies (much more expensive than new it seems)

Console:
console shell - repros now available!!! Stinger (fiberglass) or L&P/Tony's Parts (plastic)
top plate (Yikes! $$$)
wiring
chrome trim (repro $200 - real $$$)
carpet
cardboard(?) hump
brackets (used or AMD)

Troy

[Mrs.Caveman]

thanks guys!

as 1hotdaytona said there are ways to make it lighter the clutch!so there is no need to worry about it then,is there!
dont care which one is the quickest i just want to feeling of it!

Br,Veronika

[Chatt69chgr]

My thoughts on this:  10.5 inch clutch is what was used on 70 and up and is the way to go since it's cheaper.  Stay away from 11 inch--costs a lot more.  Aluminum bell housing is way to go.   Get from Brewers.  Centerforce for clutch (diaphram type) and flywheel.  23 spline plenty good for up to 600 hp and is 1/2 of 18 spline.  You can convert the transmission crossmember from an auto to manual yourself.  I decided to not install the center console.  Am just using the rubber accordian piece with trim ring.  Got Hurst shifter assembly from Summit new.  Drive shaft is same length for auto bb with 727 and A833.  For just regular driving, 7260 yokes OK.  7290's are stronger.  With 3.23 gear in rear end you can probably cruise on interstate OK.  3.55 will end up with engine rpm around 3000 at 70mph.  Not sure if you have the floor type auto shift mechanism or the column type.  If column shift, the steering column can be converted to the manual appearance type with some work.  I bought some stuff from Brewers and can recommend them.  They are good folks and have a good website.  Are willing to help you on the phone.  You have to weld the ball tab for the Z-bar to the left frame rail.  Position is not exact so you have to determine it after the engine/bell/trans is installed.  Pedal assemblies are available from Brewers and price seems good.  Brewers has the rebuild kit for the A833.  Zubrota Bearing and Gear has all of the gears available.  Check your crankshaft to see if it was drilled for a manual trans.  some are not drilled.  you either have to take it to a machine shop for this after removing the crank from the engine or use the bearing that brewer (and MOPAR) has that fits into the register at the end of the crank for the torque converter.  Yours may be drilled but not reamed.  If thats the case, you can use the bearing mentioned and let the input shaft stick into the drilled hole.  O/W, you will have to cut the end of your input shaft off.  Both ball or needle bearing or bronze bushing type bearings are available for both installations.  Some say that if the ball bearing ever seizes that it will gall and destroy the input shaft so prefer the bronze bushing.  I'm not sure about this but I think you can just add the clutch pedal and bracket to your existing brake pedal assembly.  Will have to change the brake pedal itself to narrower type.  Finally, there is a stiffener plate that goes on the engine side of the firewall that the bolts form the clutch pedal assembly utilize.  I've seen it for sale so it's available aftermarket. 

[six-tee-nine]

Depends on what you want........ I like to keep things a little date code correct.... so on a 69 that means a gear box tailshaft with a single shifter mounting position, a 68-69 trans crossmember and a 11" bellhousing/clutch setup.
And just to have it all like it should I'll be adding a Dana 60 to the list too since my car was an original R/T

But hey maybe I'm a bit of a masochist on the subject (everyone willing to drive a 4-speed is one, I guess)

[Mrs.Caveman]

to each his owen,isnt it?i personaly love the shape,sound and power of the car!not interested about number matching or date correct stuff!if i were collecting them then yeah of course it has to be correct but im just here to enjoy and drive the hell out of her! unfortunately here in Hungary the rules are a bit strick and my car has to be number matching!

Veronika

[stripedelete]

to each his owen,isnt it?i personaly love the shape,sound and power of the car!not interested about number matching or date correct stuff!if i were collecting them then yeah of course it has to be correct but im just here to enjoy and drive the hell out of her! unfortunately here in Hungary the rules are a bit strick and my car has to be number matching!

Veronika

Confused.   "Number matching" in order to import the car?  Or it has to remain numbers matching in Hungary.   And, does "numbers matching" include the transmission?

[Piston_Freddy]

So Hungary is only country with that stupid law? Other European country's don't have this law I'm pretty sure! So if your car engine block throws a rod or something, then what?