4 speed hump pics please help

[towscum]

Im converting to a 4 speed on my 69 charger, i bought the floor hump from A&D, do i weld on first and then cut out hole, and where, and what size hole do i cut, square or round, please help!!

[Cooter]

First, you lay the new hump down and trace around it, then you mark on the INSIDE of the pattern you just made about 1" all the way around. This leaves a little "lip" for you to weld the hump down to.....
Cut the hole FIRST, then, I only weld the hump down AFTER I make sure I have all the bugs worked out of the shift linkage adjustments and what not..(Drive car around a few days without any hump in)

[elacruze]

Cooter's got it right.

In my car, I measured and made a cardboard template of the hole in the original 4-speed car. In this pic you can see the red outline of my pattern.
As it turns out, I've looked at lots of cars and it looks like the holes were made by hand as necessary, sometimes when drunk or blind or both. I even saw one that was cut with a torch!

[BIGBLCK11]

Here's a pic, I have saved a few.  I am doing the same conversion this winter.

[towscum]

Thank you very much ill post some pics

[Mrs.Caveman]

hi guys!

i was just wondering why did you choos to convert your trany?what was wrong with your auto tran?myself would preffer the 4speed as well just thought i ask your reason!

thank you,good luck,i wish i colud be able to tink around with my car now!i would ratter go down to the garage then run around in the kitchen and get ready for the xmas cooking madness!

hope you guys will help your better half in the kitchen this Xmas! :slap:hehehe

br,veronika

[Troy]

There's pictures of mine in this thread:
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,64477.msg721597.html#msg721597

Plop the hump down on the floor (it really only settles in one location), trace around it, remove hump, make another new line about 1/2" inside the traced line. Be very careful at the rear as there's a crossmember running under the car. You should be able to see the spotwelds to avoid it. Cut along the line, file/deburr all the edges, reset the hump and tack weld. The factory did not weld it solid all the way around. Seam seal the heck out of it and you're ready to go. Don't forget the Z-bar bracket on the frame and the firewall reinforcement plate (unless you're using a hydraulic throwout bearing).

Troy

[BIGBLCK11]

Hi, Mrs. Caveman.  Mine's a 70, so I really wanted to add the pistol grip shifter and I think it is just more fun to drive a 4 speed.


Troy - Thanks, I didn't realize I needed the firewall reinforcement plate, but that makes sense.  I have the frame bracket for the z-bar, which will be a pain in my opinion, just because it is really tucked down in there.

[Cooter]

Veronika, You see alot of Auto cars at car shows ,ect. Very few take the time and effort to convert to manual...To me, a true musclecar has to have a big 'ol white ball shifter with that famous "H" pattern in it...The REAL fun begins when you can shift good enough to make everybody THINK you have an auto in it!

[Mrs.Caveman]

Thanks guys for the infos I agree with Cooter that a true musclecar has to have a manual trany Im sure the auto trany is very good as well or even better but it comes to that what you preffer 
I dont know much about musclecars but learning a lot from you guys 

[69chargerrt440]

If the auto. is the original one for the car keep it in there, but if not....go ahead and convert it to 4-speed. As said above it is funner to drive a 4-speed, thats why I will be going to convert my 69 Charger to a 4-speed.

[Pentastarpackrat]

Converting my '68 383/ auto to a 4 speed. Started out wanting to build a correct 'Bullitt' clone which required the 4 speed and an engine transplant. Now I'm going a different route.....the original gold paint has grown on me. Keeping the original engine but still going with the 4 speed. I bought most of what I needed from Brewer's, what a great bunch of guys.

Brewer's told me the original humps were not spot welded in as I had assumed....and was planning on replicating. The holes were crudely cut out and the humps were just tack welded along the outside of the flange and seam sealed. Can anyone varify if this all took place before or after paint? Who has an original 4 speed car that can confirm if the hump should be painted body color?

[694spdRT]

Converting my '68 383/ auto to a 4 speed. Started out wanting to build a correct 'Bullitt' clone which required the 4 speed and an engine transplant. Now I'm going a different route.....the original gold paint has grown on me. Keeping the original engine but still going with the 4 speed. I bought most of what I needed from Brewer's, what a great bunch of guys.

Brewer's told me the original humps were not spot welded in as I had assumed....and was planning on replicating. The holes were crudely cut out and the humps were just tack welded along the outside of the flange and seam sealed. Can anyone varify if this all took place before or after paint? Who has an original 4 speed car that can confirm if the hump should be painted body color?

When restoring my '69 4 speed car I used an original hump out of a rotted out plum crazy GTX and it was painted body color. It matched all the original paint on the floorboards around it.

[Troy]

Yes, the hump was added prior to paint. So were the linkage brackets.

Troy