Anyone use Pro Comp Dist and Ign boxes (looks like good deal)

[Charger Aficionado]

I'd rather have this than the Mopar Perf deal for $200.00
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dodge-Mopar-440-pro-billet-distributor-6AL-box-coil-si_W0QQitemZ8025383563QQcategoryZ33690QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Anyone use one?

[defiance]

I don't use that package, but I do use a procomp distributor.  It worked well for me, but my case is unusual, so it maybe be junk for you...
Basically, it is very well constructed.  The aluminum is clean, nice looking, no thin or weak places...  The signal is generated by a hall effect sensor and an 8-flanged steel 'fan'-type thing (imagine if you had an 8-bladed fan with downturned blades?  dunno how to explain better   The thing is, though, the rotor (as I'll refer to it hereafter) is not hard-attached to the shaft - instead, it is slid over it, and locked in place by four allen screws at 90* angles from each other.  This is unusual (I think), but it allows you to tweak the alignment of your signal to the box so that the spark best aligns with the rotor-to-wire connection.  Hopefully you'll never have to do that, but in my case it was a godsend - I'll explain why leter.
Next is the advance... It doesn't have a vacuum advance, so if you depend on that, you're shot.  Mechanical advance is there, but I can't really give any comment on it.  My ECU controls timing, so I actually disabled the advance.  One thing I did note is that not only is it not easily adjustable, I don't think it's really feasible to adjust it at all.  It could theoretically be adjusted by changing the springs, but those springs are *HELL* to get to.  I doubt it would be work the massive amount of trouble it would take to get to.  The advance did look well constructed, but I have to wonder how much time they really spent getting the perfect spring tension, and how tight their spring tension tolerances are.  If those are good, OK, but if they're not, you're stuck with a bad curve you can't do anything about...  If you're locking out the advance, though, no problem
Anyway, the ECU I use can work in either this-cylinder mode (it recieves a signal before max advance, then delays until target advance) or next-cylinder mode (it recieves a signal after the fire, then delays until target advance on the next cylinder), but works much better with this-cylinder mode.  The only trouble is, most distributors send signal at tdc - I was able to adjust that so that it sent a signal at 45* before tdc (the smaller the gap between signal and max advance, the more accurate the timing control) without changing the rotor alignment at all.  W00t

Anyway, point is, it's built well, and the components are fine.  The only thing I have to question is the advance curve - because whatever it is, it is, and there's nothing you can do about it

[71440se]

i looked into those a month or so ago and decided against gettng one for the following reasons: 1 no vac. advance,
2 total advance not adjustable, 3 if the module goes out on you you dont have much choice  but to try and order tthe part unless you get a spare up front. so i went with an accel from summit racing  it came with a billet body, adustable total advance,  it uses a mopar electronic module available at most parts stores , has the vac.  adv. pod . a kit is available to change and limit the advance curve.  the price was very good at 143.00  as far as i know they are made in the us.