Torsion bar Un-Stuck!

[grdprx]

I have been adjusting the ride height, and the drivers side keeps hanging low.  So, I jacked it up quite a bit, and it leveled out.  But, the adjuster bolt is WAY screwed in.  I drive the car, get back in my driveway; and the drivers side is as low as it was before.  So, I'm assuming it's a broken torsion bar.  I'd seen a tread about it before, and it seems to be my issue.

The real question I have is, would this affect the way it drives?  Besides the tire rubbing the inner fender?  I figure it might...  The reason I ask, I test drove the car after the initial adjustment and when I turned; it seemed kinda wobbly?  Or may I have a different issue?

68 Charger, 383 car; what would have been the stock bars?  I assume changing both is the correct way to go, so as not to make an ASS out of myself...  

[FLG]

Torsion bars are the same as springs, so yes a worn or broken bar will cause major issues.

[grdprx]

Is there anything gained. By rotating the T bar?

[FLG]

As in?

Adjusting the nut? It just raises the ride height. Thats about all you can do.

Firm feel sells new ones 

[grdprx]

A friend of mine suggested rotating the bar itself, but wasn't sure if it was applicable to Mopars.

[grdprx]

Ok, looks like a stock car had .92 bars.  I have a 440 in it now...  But there are performance .96 bars that will make the ride "better"   

Is a better ride stiffer, what is better?  Less roll and more stiffness...  Just curious.   

[FLG]

Look on the forum, some people prefer using stiffer bars and thus getting much better ride in terms of stability, but things can get a bit harsher.

Some people are happy with a 1.06 bar, while others go with just under an 1" size bar.

What size front sway bar are you using?

You could also give a call to firm feel and they can steer you in the right direction

[HPP]

Stock bars were .88. The .92 bars were in Hemi cars. A broken torsion bar is very obvious by the fact that is will be flapping around under the car and no amount of adjusting will bring it back up to height. That is the same as having no spring on that corner, so yes, it will impact the way it drives/rides. If you can't see that the bar is physically broken, then it could also be the welds on either the rear socket or the K frame mount have broken and are allowing the bar to rotate while your cranking the adjusting nut in.

I think it was PST that had 1" bars on sale this past summer, so a lot of people have moved up to those. Stepping up in the t-bar rate is not a bad thing as most muscle cars are undersprung by modern standards, but doing so will also require a step up in shocks to control the motion. If you look at the XV Level 1 kit, they are supplying bars that are around 1.12 in diameter, but they also have a pretty high end shock to go with it. You basic parts store oil shock won't play well with a bar size in the 1" range.

[RallyeMike]

Check the install to make sure the end of the the adjuster nut is seated where it should be.

[ChargerST]

Could it be that you installed the bars wrong? That you're one cog off?

[grdprx]

I guess I was quick to assume it was broke, I guess worn out is the propper diagnosis.

I have never taken the bars out, it looks like the adjusters are propperly aligned on both sides.  Just worn out on one side.  I'll have to take a look at the budget post-Christmas.  Thinking of getting the .96 bars.  Seems a good way to go.

[grdprx]

Question on removal.  I went to take a gander at these things, I don't see the retainer clips.  Are mine MIA??

[b5blue]

I think so, you should see two little tangs sticking out you use to compress the clip for removal. I'm running the 440 HD bars from Mopar and the car rides and handles fine.  Be sure to check or replace the LCA bushings while you have it apart.

[grdprx]

That's what I thought, I'd found a picture here; and it didn't look like what I had.  I'll start trying to bang them out.  Ordered a set of .96 bars, should have them soon.

[y3chargerrt]

Don't forget to back out the adjusting bolts all the way before you start "banging them out'.

[green69rt]

I'm really confused by your discription of the symptoms.  Adjuster doesn't make a difference in the car height?  Feels wobbly when driving?  I think I would do some more trouble shooting before I jumped on the TBs.  Maybe take the front tires off and look at the LCA, TB sockets, steering linkage, ETc.  See what effect backing the TB adjuster has.  Hard to say remotely but I little more time spent trouble shooting may save you some heartache later. 

You may have actually bent a TB so it is at the end of the adustment range.  Never seen one but that doen't mean it can't happen.

Good luck.

[grdprx]

My description of the symptoms is probably terrible.  Torsion bar adjustment is the only way to set ride height....  There are many threads about it.  I haven't had a good look at the suspension, I wouldn't be surprised if there are more issues.  I'm going to try and get someone with better eyes for this stuff under there.

BTW, yes,  I have the adjusters all the way loose.

[b5blue]

I just backed them all the way out and removed them completely to clean them up and lube them for reinstall. Check your FSM and follow recommended procedures, now is a good time to check strut rods and bushings. UCA and LCA bushings, ball joints-tie rod and idler arm for wear.  With no weight on the suspension you can pry and wiggle everything to check movement, did you order new clips and dust boots, you'll need them. 

[BigBlackDodge]

It looks to me that the bars are not all the way in......which is why there are no retainer clips on it. I'm not sure if that would affect your suspension though.


BBD

[Highbanked Hauler]

  You might have the same problem I did. The adjuster bolt and block threads  were cut to deep to begin with  and the rust from setting 20 years   made the bolt strip out of the block when it let go. I thought I broke a T bar as the car dropped down low and it turned out to be the bolt stripped out of the block. Somebody repros  them if you need them but I don't remember who.

[grdprx]

So, I got my new set of .96 bars.  Been working off an on trying to remove the old ones.  They are getting replaced, so I am not being careful removing the bars.

I unbolted the shock.  The adjuster screw is loose.  I got the passenger side off, it was a battle.  I got some U bolts and fabricated a "tool".  I have a strong wood 2x4 that I drilled holes in.  It did the job.  I had to spray the bar down twice with penatrating oil, on the second time, I sprayed a ton in the rear support area.  Pounding on it the next day, for 30-40 minutes "popped" it out.

Drivers side isn't working so well.  Had a minor accident, but I surrvived..  I've sprayed P oil on it 5 or 6 times, pounded on it without success..  I have a heavier hammer too!  Today I took loose the nut on the front of the K frame, tried prying on the LCA and pounding some more on the bar.  Won't budge.  Even with the nut off the front of the LCA!

I'm stuck, literally. 

[green69rt]

Had the same problem on mine.  I ssupect it had so much corrosion or foriegn material in the LCA end that it wouldn't come out no matter what I did.  I ended up unbolting the LCA so I could jiggle the LCA, that broke the front end of the TB lose.  Then it came right out.

[HPP]

 Also try taking off the upper control arm bumper so the assembly can drop farther down.  If that isn't enough, unbolt teh lower ball joint so the lower arm can hang. If the passenger side popped out, then there was still some load on it. Driver's side may be worse.

[FLG]

Heat is your friend 

[grdprx]

Heat is your friend 

Everywhere I've read, including the FSM specifically saying, "Don't use Heat" ....   

Is there anything on the LCA that could get hurt by heat?  Also, I've sprayed it with quite a bit of oil, so the potential for flame is there....