Radiator

[Piston_Freddy]

Just got a call from the radiator shop and my 26 rad has half the core tubes clogged. New core is little under 330$ + labor it would be like 420$
What would be lowest price aftermarket ones + shipping to Europe?

I took the radiator to the shop because of leak, it idles little over 180F and when driving temp was between 180F and 210F(aftermarket gauges and sending unit).Could be higher in hot days tho?

[bull]

Just got a call from the radiator shop and my 26 rad has half the core tubes clogged. New core is little under 330$ + labor it would be like 420$
What would be lowest price aftermarket ones + shipping to Europe?

I took the radiator to the shop because of leak, it idles little over 180F and when driving temp was between 180F and 210F(aftermarket gauges and sending unit).Could be higher in hot days tho?

Aftermarket aluminum radiators are typically around $300 I think. But then you've got to ask yourself some questions about the stock radiator before buying an aftermarket one. Are you going to toss it? If so and if it's an original one you'd be tossing a fairly valuable part. And if you decide to keep it are you willing to store it and maybe keep tripping over it for the foreseeable future? Would it be worth the extra $150 or so to just have the original rebuilt so you don't have to store it or potentially lose it forever? Thirty years ago people just junked this kind of stuff without thinking and now they're cruising Ebay looking for it ready to spend wads of cash to get it back.

FWIW, I paid about $500 to have my original 22" radiator rebuilt with a new 3-row core here in the states. I also sold a 70 Challenger T/A - AAR Cuda core radiator on Ebay for $500 a few years ago because someone tossed his out and then needed an original. He then had to pay probably another $300 to have it rebuilt.

[ChgrSteve67]

The shipping is going to add more than a few bucks to the cost along with the shipping time and potential damage durring shipping......  I think cost would be about the same or cheaper to just rebuild the one you have not to mention a faster turn around.  and there is the fact that you know its going to fit and no modifications that an aftermarket radiator might require to get ti to fit correctly.

Cheaper is not necessarily better.

[tan top]

think i would just get it rebuilt  , as it sounds like its plenty enough for the motor combo your running  

[Piston_Freddy]

Thanks for the reply's! Its not a original radiator(stock was 22)for that car and I'm not concerned to replace stuff under the hood, very little stock left by last owners.Next week I'll look in to it.

[bull]

If I were you I would run the numbers on the top and see what you've got if you have no desire to keep it. Maybe it's worth enough by itself to pay for a new one.

http://www.rosevillemoparts.com/reference_radiatorguide.php

[Piston_Freddy]

If I were you I would run the numbers on the top and see what you've got if you have no desire to keep it. Maybe it's worth enough by itself to pay for a new one.

http://www.rosevillemoparts.com/reference_radiatorguide.php

     Part #    Year     Body    Size    Engines     Trans    HVAC
2785942    1967       C          26"    383           Both      HI ALT-A/C    

Radiator shop said that the only one close to the stock core is a MAN truck one, not sure how it will fit later so I'm getting some quotes right now and then decide.

[bull]

Well, a C-body radiator isn't worth a whole lot but it can be worth maybe $100 or so to the right person. Have you checked summitracing.com? They might have a decent deal on shipping.

[doctor4766]

Just got a call from the radiator shop and my 26 rad has half the core tubes clogged. New core is little under 330$ + labor it would be like 420$
What would be lowest price aftermarket ones + shipping to Europe?

I took the radiator to the shop because of leak, it idles little over 180F and when driving temp was between 180F and 210F(aftermarket gauges and sending unit).Could be higher in hot days tho?

Just had the same problem this week.
Was giving the car a little stick on the way home from a car show last Sunday and the temperature started to climb from it's regular 190 and even at normal road speed it continued going up slowly over the next few miles so I parked her up.
Pulled the 26" radiator out and took it to the local repairer for his opinion.
He pulled the top tank off and used stainless rod to clear out the tubes. Reckons it was 80% clogged.
I reinstalled it on Friday and have used the Toyota Red coolant (with distilled water 50/50) since it's meant to be one of the best.
Took her for a spin yesterday and I'm please to say that the temp now stays at a very steady 180 degrees.
Best part is  it only cost $90 for the repair work and about $45 for the coolant.

[Piston_Freddy]

Just got a call from the radiator shop and my 26 rad has half the core tubes clogged. New core is little under 330$ + labor it would be like 420$
What would be lowest price aftermarket ones + shipping to Europe?

I took the radiator to the shop because of leak, it idles little over 180F and when driving temp was between 180F and 210F(aftermarket gauges and sending unit).Could be higher in hot days tho?

Just had the same problem this week.
Was giving the car a little stick on the way home from a car show last Sunday and the temperature started to climb from it's regular 190 and even at normal road speed it continued going up slowly over the next few miles so I parked her up.
Pulled the 26" radiator out and took it to the local repairer for his opinion.
He pulled the top tank off and used stainless rod to clear out the tubes. Reckons it was 80% clogged.
I reinstalled it on Friday and have used the Toyota Red coolant (with distilled water 50/50) since it's meant to be one of the best.
Took her for a spin yesterday and I'm please to say that the temp now stays at a very steady 180 degrees.
Best part is  it only cost $90 for the repair work and about $45 for the coolant.

Maybe I will do the same thing!Thanks doc!

[doctor4766]

Worth a shot.
Hey if you are going to use the Toyota coolant I was told that it's crucial to flush the whole system out before you reinstall the radiator as the coolant doesn't like to "play" nicely with other coolants . Make sure you have the heater controls switched to heat too, that way any coolant in the heater core will also be expelled.
In fact, I disconnected one heater hose and fed the clean water hose in through that and held my hand over the bottom radiator hose until I could see the block was full (I also had the thermostat housing off at the time)
After several flushes like this there was no sign of the old coolant coming out of the block.

I took another drive yesterday (about 100km round trip) and the maximum temp I reached was 185, and that included plenty of traffic lights either side of the freeway part of the run.   

[Piston_Freddy]

Worth a shot.
Hey if you are going to use the Toyota coolant I was told that it's crucial to flush the whole system out before you reinstall the radiator as the coolant doesn't like to "play" nicely with other coolants . Make sure you have the heater controls switched to heat too, that way any coolant in the heater core will also be expelled.
In fact, I disconnected one heater hose and fed the clean water hose in through that and held my hand over the bottom radiator hose until I could see the block was full (I also had the thermostat housing off at the time)
After several flushes like this there was no sign of the old coolant coming out of the block.

I took another drive yesterday (about 100km round trip) and the maximum temp I reached was 185, and that included plenty of traffic lights either side of the freeway part of the run.   

I'm way a head of you,I already did the complete system flush.Everything should be bone dry, It was a bitch to get those two plugs off the block,nothing came out until I poked a screwdriver in the hole.I'm not sure which coolant to use tho.

Glad to hear your Charger is running cool again.