383 makeover- Best performance?

[kr2006]

 66 Charger; 383/auto, 28,000 miles. Car's original and been in storage since 1970.
I noticed some coolant leaking from the rt rear between the head and block, so looks like headgaskets are on my to-do list. I figured that I ought to get the valve seats worked on for unleaded fuel use...

I do not want to replace the 383 with a 440 (well, I DO, but I'm thinking a 440 for the next project, this ones too original) So I am thinking that since the heads are off, now's the time to upgrade for performance sake. My only requirement is that the motor still looks stock when all is accomplished- so no aluminum heads, intake manifold, or headers...

Here's my question for most everyone here- How would you modify a 383 for the best performance while retaining the stock look? (you all are so much more knowledgeable than me when it comes to Mopars- I am a lowly recent convert from GM projects)

Also, I still need to be able to run on pump gas-

I'm thinking cylinder head work should top my list, and some sort of cam and valvetrain upgrade, I know I'm limiting myself with the restrictive exhaust and all, but I'm stuck on keeping the stock look. I don't know what kind of headwork, or type  / make of cam, same with valvetrain, so any suggestions are appreciated! thanks all! Also, anything else should I consider doing with the engine since it's top end is off?

[greenpigs]

 I would see if it spins first. Pull all the plugs and rotate it over with a breaker bar before tearing into it. But before you do anything drain that oil! I would try to get it running if it turns over. It could have a blown head gasket but I don't know if it would hurt it any to run a bit that way.
  If it was mine I would try to avoid tearing into it unless 100% necessary & keep it as original as possible.

All the belts,hose,filters & plug wires will be shot so they will need to be replaced. But don't toss them as they may be original and some trailer queen owner may want them. Something sitting that long doesn't happen so much & I would take a bunch of pictures of under the hood before turning a wrench.

[kr2006]

 oops- sorry I wasn't as detailed as I should have been. I've been driving it for 3 years now, I put about 1200 miles on it in that time. Before I drove it, I replaced all those maintenance items. The only thing that looked Mopar original was the oil filter, as I recall, looked like real real old auto parts stuff.
Maybe I shouldn't have said 'all original'... I meant it in the way that the car's still wearing shiny factory paint, and unmolested for the most part. It did have an old chrome air cleaner, valve covers, and aftermarket wheels on it, but the old parts were in a box in the estate's garage where I got it from, so I put it all back...
thank you for the post, though.

[BSB67]

What is your budget?

[kr2006]

 So far, my buddy at a local machine shop will deburr and polish the inside of my intake manifold, exhaust manifolds, and cylinder heads, and install hardened valve seats for $350; I'm figuring a engine gasket set at around $150, cam/lifters at $200...

I figure that 45 year old gaskets ought to be replaced, no sense in doing this kinda thing multiple times, so I'm pulling the motor and resealing it. It'll give me a chance to look at the bottom end too.

I've got $1200-$1500 in the budget for this...

If it helps, the axle tag says 3.55

[greenpigs]

  I guess the hardened valve seats & a 3 angle valve job would be good enough. For the price it sounds like he is just cleaning up the ports and matching them size wise which shouldn't hurt. I  think if you can get away with it use the original pistons and measure how deep they are then deck the block to clean it up & get a accurate 9.7 or so CR. I think it is a 10 CR factory but I doubt it will be that high when you check. Then you need to measure the piston distance it sits top dead center to the deck & get a CC size from the heads before I would have any work done. I hate to use blueprint but the factory combo is pretty good and other than making sure your getting good quench & CR it should be a strong runner afterwards. For cam selection I wouldn't use a repo grind but something similar & I will let someone else tackle that.
  Most times my answers will bring people out to correct the errors or gray area I left out. I also would leave the 3.55 in it as that's what most want who drive more than around the city.

[kr2006]

 Thanks for the advice. Anyone out there recommend any cam / valvetrain components?

Spoke with a friend who has a dyno - we're gonna dyno tune and record the before and after, I'll post the numbers when all is said and done.

[kr2006]

 Spoke with the Summit tech people yesterday, here's what they recommended:

Mopar performance purple camshaft:
Cam Style:  Hydraulic flat tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range:  Idle-5,800
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift:  228
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift:  241
Duration at 050 inch Lift:  228 int./241 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration:  268
Advertised Exhaust Duration:  284
Advertised Duration:  268 int./284 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:  0.450 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:  0.458 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:  0.450 int./0.458 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees):  115


Are there any valvetrain components(rocker arms, shafts, etc) that I should consider besides stock? I've heard that there are aftermarket items out there that will outperform stock components, even with such a mild approach to an engine build.
I know that between between cam and valvetrain I can gain some performance over stock, even with a stock iron head and stock compression- I just dont know what combination if any, would give me those results. looks like I've got $500-$700 left in the budget. Any suggestions? As always, thank you for your thoughtful responses, ya'll are a great community.

[greenpigs]

  I would call Mancini and ask what they recommend. The cam Summit spec-ed out is the factory replacement for the 383\440 HP for the late 60's. It may be a good cam still but it is an old grind & they may have something better out now. However I think whatever is suggested will be similar to what Summit said. Keep the clutch fan setup also as it is the way to go.
  You might want to grab a Quick Fuel 650 carb with some of the money left over. Some of the guys like double pumpers but not sure your Charger needs that. Also don't forget to use the valley pan with the blocked off heat riser. 

[BOSSHEMI]

only performance camshaft that belongs in a Mopar engine is one from Racer Brown. (410) 866-7660

[kr2006]

 Once again, thank you for the suggestions! I'll call Mancini tomorrow. I'll ask them their opinions on Racer Brown cams too.
I will post what they recommend.

In Liberty,
Kevin
III

[BOSSHEMI]

Once again, thank you for the suggestions! I'll call Mancini tomorrow. I'll ask them their opinions on Racer Brown cams too.
I will post what they recommend.

In Liberty,
Kevin
III

you cant get a Racer Brown cam from Mancini, you can only get it from Jim at Racer Brown

my 66 runs a Racer Brown solid Roller

http://www.myspace.com/video/stephen-wehner/warming-up-the-hemi/34639607

[c00nhunterjoe]

I've got a racer brown cam in my 383 and it screams! His cam and lifter kits are not expensive and run great.