Advise on lose yoke nut on 8 3/4

[1969chargerrtse]

I was removing my yoke on my rear to replace a leaky seal and found the nut to be loose.  After I replace the seal can I just tighten it down.  Or is there and exact torque?
Any info appreciated.

[68coronetGLwannabe]

Looks like my books says 240 (min) foot pounds.

[1969chargerrtse]

Looks like my books says 240 (min) foot pounds.

Cool, but I hear this stuff about load bearing pressure etc?  Just torque it down to 240 and that's it?

[68coronetGLwannabe]

Looks like my books says 240 (min) foot pounds.

Cool, but I hear this stuff about load bearing pressure etc?  Just torque it down to 240 and that's it?

I think so. The yoke should only go on so far no matter how tight you get it.  If just replacing the seal I believe torquing it down will be just fine. If you were replacing bearings there would be preloading involved. Maybe someone else will chime in and know for sure.

[1969chargerrtse]

Looks like my books says 240 (min) foot pounds.

Cool, but I hear this stuff about load bearing pressure etc?  Just torque it down to 240 and that's it?

I think so. The yoke should only go on so far no matter how tight you get it.  If just replacing the seal I believe torquing it down will be just fine. If you were replacing bearings there would be preloading involved. Maybe someone else will chime in and know for sure.

Dug out the ole service book and agree with you on that. Thanks a lot. 

[John_Kunkel]

The nut torque depends on the type of pinion, if the casting number on the side of the housing ends in 489 (a '69 should) there is no specified torque, it has a crush sleeve and the running torque of the pinion needs to be known.

If the casting number ends in any other number just tighten the nut to 240 ft.lbs.

[1969chargerrtse]

The nut torque depends on the type of pinion, if the casting number on the side of the housing ends in 489 (a '69 should) there is no specified torque, it has a crush sleeve and the running torque of the pinion needs to be known.

If the casting number ends in any other number just tighten the nut to 240 ft.lbs.

What the heck did you just say?  What's the running torque?  I eneded up just cranking it down.  So did I over tighten it and what damage would it do?

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

Rob, if you have a "489" (which you should have for your 1969) case rear there is a crush collar on the tapered style pinion that sets the proper pre-load on the bearings.  There is no specific torque value for the pinion nut on this style of case.   When setting up the rear with a fresh crush collar, the nut gets tightened till the proper pre-load is reached & the collar is "crushed" to its final length effectively retaining this pre-load.

On the other style cases (741 & 742) there is a solid spacer & shims on the stepped type pinion that determine the proper pre-load....therefor the nut will have a specific torque value (240 ftlbs)

Now in your case, where you just changed the seal & just used the German or Military style torque spec, you "should" be fine.   Is it likely that you crushed the collar more and changed the pre-load value?  Maybe but not likely since you used a 140lb wrench on jack stands.

Pic borrowed from the Moparts Tech Archive...look for the "Collapsible Spacer" or "crush collar"

[1969chargerrtse]

Thanks for taking the time to explain that and with a picture. Yeah I cranked on it past the 140 mark but as you said I had car on jack stands and I couldn't lean into it to hard because I was afraid It would be pushed off the stands. I should be ok. I drove it on the highway and for about an half hour and it seemed normal and quiet. Thanks again. 

[1969chargerrtse]

O.K I have to ask, what does this mean?

"used the German or Military style torque spec "

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

O.K I have to ask, what does this mean?

"used the German or Military style torque spec "

German spec----- Gutentighten

Military Spec----PFT (pretty frickin tight)

  Took you long enough to ask!