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Need help with unique style of adjustable strut rods

Started by bull, November 19, 2010, 04:20:08 PM

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bull

The kind I got are American Muscle and they don't seem to have much in common with the Hotchkis, Firm Feel or Mopar Performance style strut rods. And they didn't come with much in the way of instructions, so I'm trying to piece this together. The adjustment goes toward the front, that much I know, but the part I'm a little confused about how the adjustment part of it works. I can hopefully get some pictures of my actual K-frame later (if the camera decides to work) but for now all I have is a web pic of the rod itself below.

Starting at the front k-frame end I think this is how it goes: torque nut, bushing cap/washer, bushing on the front side of the frame and then the spacer tube inside, followed by the back half of the bushing, another bushing cap/washer and then here's where I'm having trouble. Does the first jam nut at the far right in the pic below go against the washer followed by the big adjustment nut and then the second jam nut?

The pic here shows the type of rod I have. The left end goes into the LCA and on the right end you see the two jam nuts and the big adjustor nut. Since the threads are fixed (the rod diameter was cut down and threaded) the only way I can see to make any front/back adjustments is by loosening the torque nut on the front to set the distance. Or maybe you loosen the back nut at the LCA and turn the whole rod? Or maybe I should just buy a set from Firm Feel. :P


bull

Ok, I went and had another look at my strut rods and now I'm about 50% less retarded than when I first posted. I just figured out that the rod is NOT one solid piece; the larger end that goes toward the back is drilled out and the smaller end threads into it. The way it first appeared made no sense at all. However, it still seems one end has to be loosened before any front/back adjustments can be made since it is not a true turnbuckle design like the Firm Feel style.

A383Wing

Quote from: bull on November 19, 2010, 10:27:11 PM
Ok, I went and had another look at my strut rods and now I'm about 50% less retarded than when I first posted.

would that be the left side of the brain...or the right side??  :D

FLG


bull

You seemed to know when I was correcting your spelling. :D

FLG

Well you didn't have the shiney strut rod keeping your attention  :nana:

b5blue

Puzzle all this out Bull, I wanted to add adjustable SR's on mine when I do the disk conversion and I'm lost on it now.  :eek2: Pics please! (My camera is the same as yours, works fine when you don't NEED it!)

bull

There's one other thing on my strut rods that isn't in the pic above. They included a pair of prevailing torque nuts for the front end so I believe the large nut and one of the small jam nuts go against the rear bushing cup toward the front and the second small jam nut goes against the back end against the tube.

Maybe? :shruggy:

Charger-Bodie

Not much help for you,but Ive never used any adjustable one and Ive never had the need.
68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

b5blue

What is used for the bushing hole up front?   :shruggy:  (The other kind I know of has a kinda "cup" that takes the place of the rubber bushing)

bull

Quote from: b5blue on November 20, 2010, 02:12:10 PM
What is used for the bushing hole up front?   :shruggy:  (The other kind I know of has a kinda "cup" that takes the place of the rubber bushing)

Everything is the same as OE up front except that the OE rods had holes drilled through the ends of them for a roll pin. Starting from front to back: Torque nut, cup washer, front bushing, spacer (inside bushings), k-frame, rear bushing and second cup washer. The difference at the back, which is what I think you're alluding to, is that the OE rods have a built-in shoulder to retain the rear cup washer. I believe that now becomes the function of the first small jam nut seen in at the right in the pic above.

b5blue

OK, so adjusting the jam nut "in front of" the LCA moves it back or forward and the rear "locks it" in position. (You got these where?)

bull

I got them from a member of this site. Not sure if he's still selling aftermarket stuff for our cars or not but at the time he was getting rid of his inventory or clearing out some of the stuff that wasn't moving. Not even sure what I paid for them now but it was a good deal compared to the more popular outfits. The only instructions they came with was a drawing of how they work with the bushings, which I already knew. Nothing on how to adjust them or lock them in place.

Found their website: http://www.americanmuscle.biz/ but no sign of the #34547 strut rods. Looks like they only have aluminum now.

b5blue

They make good stuff, I have some of their tools.  :yesnod: Perhaps these didn't sell well.

HPP

He got them from me. I used to be an American Muscle reseller in the earlier part of the decade. I got tired of the retail thing, so I cleared out most my stuff for cheap the last couple of years.

If I recall, the threaded rod is set in to the strut body in such a way that it does not rotate, so you shouldn't need a jam nut there, although you could put one there for piece of mind. You could also put the extra jam nut at the very front since these don't have an accomodation for a roll pin to prevent that nut from falling off.  Or pick p an extra nut at the hardware store and do both.

bull

Quote from: HPP on November 22, 2010, 01:45:13 PM
He got them from me. I used to be an American Muscle reseller in the earlier part of the decade. I got tired of the retail thing, so I cleared out most my stuff for cheap the last couple of years.

If I recall, the threaded rod is set in to the strut body in such a way that it does not rotate, so you shouldn't need a jam nut there, although you could put one there for piece of mind. You could also put the extra jam nut at the very front since these don't have an accomodation for a roll pin to prevent that nut from falling off.  Or pick p an extra nut at the hardware store and do both.

Thanks for your help. I contacted a guy named Jim at American Muscle (which is now Car Shop Inc. maybe?) and he sent me this:

"Just talked to Jerry (the guy he says made them),   amm ...  He claims they made those for customers
who wanted to adjust the wheelbase stagger for  racing..
No instructions really included...     talk to your alignment guy or
chassis builder"

::)

General 68

Hello! Old topic but as I have the same type strut rods as you I wanted to hear how you ended up installing them. Also, are they supposed to go with the oem cups over the bushings?

BBKNARF

68 Charger, slowly in the works, 451 c.i. approx. 535 hp @ the flywheel, so far best time in the 1/4
11.21 @ 119 mph, full exhaust, stock suspension, 4:10s @ 3640 pounds.

General 68

Thanks. The strut rods shown in the attachment has heim joints so it don't tell very much about those rods asked about in this topic.

bull

I don't know how much of the strut rods you'll be able to see here but I took some pics of the whole setup a while back. Nothing has been torqued yet so it won't look exactly like it's supposed to look. And I can take some more detailed pics later at home if you need them.



General 68

That thing looks sweet :drool5: A pic that shows the strut rod where it gois into the k-member would be great!

bull

I've been doing other things and haven't buttoned it up yet, or thought about how exactly I'm going to configure the jam nuts yet, so I'm going to post pics of the two ways I have it dummied up right now.

The first two pics are the left side, which I believe is correct. The third is of the right side which looks right but probably isn't since there's no jam nut against the tube.

General 68

Thank you very much! I agree that your first picture seems correct. I believ if you dont bottom out the threaded rod you can loosen the nut behind the lca and the jam nut in front of the main piece and turn this piece to adjust the lenght a little. Do you agree?

bull

That's my understanding. I never got any instructions either but that seems to make the most sense.

General 68

I'll mock them up see how it works. Just have to finish some reinforcements on the k-member while it's out. Thanks for helping Bull!

HPP

bull, I'd recommend going with the layout in your first picture.

That is a nice set up!

bull

Quote from: HPP on February 19, 2011, 10:00:02 AM
bull, I'd recommend going with the layout in your first picture.

That is a nice set up!

Will do. :2thumbs: It should work fine.

General 68

Hello Bull! I just finished installing these strut rods and found that the long nut has to go right behind the rear retainer. This is the only way that will make you able to adjust the rod. One jam nut goes behind the long adjusing nut and the other goes towards the main body. XV Motorsport sells a similar strut rod and you can go to their web site and check out a picture of it installed. You will find it under "suspension"-"XV level 1 suspension kit"-"B-Body". Just wanted to let you know before you bolt the K-member to the car.

bull

That actually makes more sense due to the recess in that spot. That way it moves the jam nuts out to where you can work on them. I did consider that once but got busy with other things and forgot about strut rods. :2thumbs: Thanks for the idea.