Push Rod Help

[TXcharger70]

496 (383) stroker w/stealth heads xs282 and 1.6 rockers
Ok here is my dilemma my buddy order semifinished push rods from comp cams 9 to 10in for me. my question is won't they be still to long since i think my length will be shorter than 9in that is i am not supposed to go passed the 9 in mark cause then i get into the harden treated metal and will be hard to put together. Is this correct? and if so does some anyone have an idea of approximately how long they should be on this build just to have an idea so that i can get the right push rod checker and rods. I think stock is around 8.5 or so any help will be appreciated

[Challenger340]

I typically stock and use the 9-10" tubes for both the Low-Deck(400) or High440 Engines.

Just makes my Inventory easier, than stocking different lengths.

I do NOT know of any Hardening differences down the lengths of the tubes ? seem all the same to me when I cut them ?
I have cut & fit 9-10" tubes well down under 9" with No Difference in hardeness ? Just me I guess ?

NO Guessing.
You will have to mock up your particular valvetrain, and obtain correct Rocker Geometry with an Adjustable Pushrod,
then,
Cut your tubes to length, and insert the ends.

Special tooling is required, and "should be used" for pressing the ends in,
as well,
don't forget to "size" the internal end of the Tube end, after cutting to length, with a special reamer, so the Pushrod tip goes in with the correct interference fit.
Without sizing the Internal end of the cut pushrod tube, the tips are next to impossible to insert, even with the correct Press assembly tooling.

[TXcharger70]

they only reason i ask was cause comp cams told me it was harden/heat treated after the 9-10in mark which would make it harder to cut and put the ends on which is why i started to get worried.

[frederick]

Haven't you got it the wrong way around.
If you've got a low block/B with stamper rockers, the standard push rods are 8.555"
RB stock length is 9.31"
So you would need 8" to 9"long.

The way I did it was get a push rod length checker, make a solid lifter out of a hydraulic lifter, and custom ordered the push rods from Smith Brothers.

Maybe this doesn't apply to you, but if you don't have a adjustable rockers, make sure you measure all 16 push rod lengths, cause the stem height is not the same on every valve.
At least they weren't on my 440 source heads.
This was cause by slightly different install heights of the valve seats.




Frederick

[Challenger340]

they only reason i ask was cause comp cams told me it was harden/heat treated after the 9-10in mark which would make it harder to cut and put the ends on which is why i started to get worried.

I Dunno ?
The Comp Tech Guys on the phone must be way smarter than me, or, I'm just too dumb to realize the Pushrods are "Harder" below the 9" mark ?

Come to think of it ?
That would be a neat trick to "see in person" ?
"How",
They Heat Treat and Harden one portion of a pushrod, but not the part right beside it ?

IMO
I think the Comp Tech Gonads are full of S**T !

[jet]

The pushrod will be case hardened [carbon nitrated] from the formed end ie lifter end  to within one inch of the top. You are required to cut to length  and bore the tube  to suit the ''push in'' ball or cup you need for the rocker arm. Thus it needs to be NOT  case hardened at the top for maching reasons .  These type of pushrods can be used on
engines with guide plates if the guide plate is running on the hardened section of the p/rod.. hope that makes sense
Smith bros called this a ''2 piece pushrod''

[RallyeMike]

Special tooling is required, and "should be used" for pressing the ends in,
as well, don't forget to "size" the internal end of the Tube end, after cutting to length, with a special reamer, so the Pushrod tip goes in with the correct interference fit.
Without sizing the Internal end of the cut pushrod tube, the tips are next to impossible to insert, even with the correct Press assembly tooling.

I didnt realize this had to be that complicated. I cut mine off with a chop saw, filed the end with round and flat files, and tapped the tips in with a hammer. While it sounds like a caveman did it, I was very cautious and precise and it took an entire day.