i need help finding a carb

[BigBlockSam]

hi guys

i have a 383 motor with a lumpy cam and crapy idle. i use to have a 600 edelbrock carb on it . it ran ok  still carpy idle . i traded my friend that carb for a 750 holley and had nothing but problems with it . i think a 650 would be perfect for it but i'd like to go back to an edelbrock . i found this one but it is a square bore . would this fit on a stock intake manifold 1969 383 manifold . or do you guys have a better idea . i wish i could change the cam out in this engine to a better street cam but i can't swing that rite now . any help would be appreciated . Rene

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-Edelbrock-Thunder-AVS-650-cfm-Carb-PN-1806-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem518237f624QQitemZ350077056548QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

[68coronetGLwannabe]

If you are interested in going back to a eddy 600 cfm I have this one.

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,74537.0.html

[super_dave]

hi guys

i have a 383 motor with a lumpy cam and crapy idle. i use to have a 600 edelbrock carb on it . it ran ok  still carpy idle . i traded my friend that carb for a 750 holley and had nothing but problems with it . i think a 650 would be perfect for it but i'd like to go back to an edelbrock . i found this one but it is a square bore . would this fit on a stock intake manifold 1969 383 manifold . or do you guys have a better idea . i wish i could change the cam out in this engine to a better street cam but i can't swing that rite now . any help would be appreciated . Rene

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-Edelbrock-Thunder-AVS-650-cfm-Carb-PN-1806-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem518237f624QQitemZ350077056548QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

What model # on that Holley carb, how old is it, and how much..... 

[greenpigs]

hi guys

i have a 383 motor with a lumpy cam and crapy idle. i use to have a 600 edelbrock carb on it . it ran ok  still carpy idle . i traded my friend that carb for a 750 holley and had nothing but problems with it . i think a 650 would be perfect for it but i'd like to go back to an edelbrock . i found this one but it is a square bore . would this fit on a stock intake manifold 1969 383 manifold . or do you guys have a better idea . i wish i could change the cam out in this engine to a better street cam but i can't swing that rite now . any help would be appreciated . Rene

I have a Pro Form main body and Quick Fuel dual metering blocks and that cost about $200 & I reused the old bowls & baseplate, NICE carb now & what I would do in your case.

[firefighter3931]

In most cases a lumpy cam with lots of duration & overlap will make carb tuning a pain. It's important to tune the ignition curve before attempting to deal with carburation. The carb you have now might work with some ignition work. 


Ron

[ACUDANUT]

 You need a 750 or bigger carb for that big block!!

[Bobs69]

I have a 750 Edelbrock.  Looks just like the other one mentioned here thats 600cfm.  I think its model #1407.  Has an electric chock.  I'm not quite ready to take it off yet but maybe soon.................

[mhinders]

In most cases a lumpy cam with lots of duration & overlap will make carb tuning a pain. It's important to tune the ignition curve before attempting to deal with carburation. The carb you have now might work with some ignition work. 
Ron

Yes, and a bigger carb will make it even more difficult...
Martin

[Manifold]

In most cases a lumpy cam with lots of duration & overlap will make carb tuning a pain. It's important to tune the ignition curve before attempting to deal with carburation. The carb you have now might work with some ignition work. 


Ron

X2! So many people blame the carb when much or most of the problem lies in the ignition curve. Then, the next problem is that many folks don't know how to properly tune/adjust a carb to deal with low vacuum/lumpy cams. Carbs are not a bolt on and go.

[BigBlockSam]

In most cases a lumpy cam with lots of duration & overlap will make carb tuning a pain

Ron you hit the nail rite on the head . what a pain this motor is to tune. the problem is when you put it in gear the rpm's go down a lot . at neutral  it sounds great . so when you stop at a light she wants to stall.

me and Holley carbs just don't get a long . i had two old 600 edelbrock carb's laying around . so i made one decent carb out of them .  it's running good , idle still sucks but it's not stalling when  in gear . any help is appreciated.

my main question was weather i could bolt on the 650 thunder series carb that i posted  on top . onto a stock 69 manifold . or will i need a spacer . it's a square bore 

[Bobs69]

In most cases a lumpy cam with lots of duration & overlap will make carb tuning a pain. It's important to tune the ignition curve before attempting to deal with carburation. The carb you have now might work with some ignition work. 


Ron

Is the dwell adjustable on our upgraded distributors with electonic ignition?  I've been googleing this a bit.

[Bobs69]

hmmmm

http://books.google.ca/books?id=5OEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA102&lpg=PA102&dq=how+do+you+adjust+dwell+on+electronic+ignition&source=bl&ots=wl-a9VdyKf&sig=QRuT76zeuDrDRPy88yDgZ6ttUvA&hl=en&ei=lzbTTKWlHIOTnQeWl4H4Dw&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CAgQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q=how%20do%20you%20adjust%20dwell%20on%20electronic%20ignition&f=false

[firefighter3931]

Rene, the 650 Eddy carb will physically bolt up to your intake manifold....no problem. 

Where is your base timing set....how many degrees of advance at idle ? How much vacuum is it producing ?

A big part of your problem is the converter which is pulling the motor down when you put it in gear. 



Ron

[BigBlockSam]

A big part of your problem is the converter which is pulling the motor down

me and my friend Tommy where just discussing that. who ever rebuilt this motor and trans , did not do there homework first . this is the motor in my superbee . if you stomp her she screams . .
i think in the spring my little bee is gonna get a new cam and lifters and a 650 thunder carb 
i'll put that on the list 


this is after i freshened up the motor and before the holley started messing up

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rRHE37xxQPI

[BigBlockSam]

just playing  , burnout!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fm25vWESMko

[mhinders]

If you are using the vacuum advance that might contribute to your problem.
At unloaded idle you still have some vacuum, advancing the ignition. When putting in gear, the rpms drop, the vacuum drops further, the ignition is retarded...the engine is powerless and about  to die...
Without the vacuum advance, try 24 degrees initial timing, maximize mechanical advance to 12 degrees in the distributor...giving a total of 36 degrees...this works well with my 383. The idle is still lumpy of course, but the engine doesn't die in gear.
It's interesting to note that I passed the Swedish exhaust control with good values in spite of  the lumpy, seemingly inefficient combustion at idle.

Martin

In most cases a lumpy cam with lots of duration & overlap will make carb tuning a pain

Ron you hit the nail rite on the head . what a pain this motor is to tune. the problem is when you put it in gear the rpm's go down a lot . at neutral  it sounds great . so when you stop at a light she wants to stall.

[BigBlockSam]

If you are using the vacuum advance that might contribute to your problem.
At unloaded idle you still have some vacuum, advancing the ignition. When putting in gear, the rpms drop, the vacuum drops further, the ignition is retarded...the engine is powerless and about  to die...
Without the vacuum advance, try 24 degrees initial timing, maximize mechanical advance to 12 degrees in the distributor...giving a total of 36 degrees...this works well with my 383. The idle is still lumpy of course, but the engine doesn't die in gear.
It's interesting to note that I passed the Swedish exhaust control with good values in spite of  the lumpy, seemingly inefficient combustion at idle.

my timing is at about 25 and with the advance it's at about  35 . i have no vacuum advance only mechanical but we're in the ball park.

i'm thinking of changing the torque converter to a TCI SATURDAY NIGHT SPECIAL it's got a flash stall of 2000-2200.
i think that's what this  set up needs and the easiest way to fix this problem.

what do you guys think?   thank you for your help 

[firefighter3931]

my timing is at about 25 and with the advance it's at about  35 . i have no vacuum advance only mechanical but we're in the ball park.

i'm thinking of changing the torque converter to a TCI SATURDAY NIGHT SPECIAL it's got a flash stall of 2000-2200.
i think that's what this  set up needs and the easiest way to fix this problem.

what do you guys think?   thank you for your help 

The ignition timing seems to be dialed in. The tq converter or cam should be changed for better manners. 

I suppose you need to ask your self if you're happy with the engine's powerband and make a decision from there. Basicly, your options are a cam swap to work with the current converter or a converter swap to work with the current camshaft.

I luv my Dynamic converter ; felt great at low engine speeds and stalled at 4200 when i dropped the hammer. From neutral > drive it only dropped 150 rpm. 

For a car like yours and from what you're describing the Dymanic 10in street/strip converter would be my choice.

How much gear are you running in this car ? Tire diameter ?



Ron

[mhinders]

Yes, changing the stall speed seems like the most attractive path. It's nice to have an efficient engine at speeds, in spite of the (minor) trouble at idle speeds. I think in my case a 2000-2500 stall would be about right...my thinking is that this will limit the slip at highway speeds and maybe save some fuel, still allowing the engine to breath properly when "dropping the hammer" (I like that expression...) from a standstill.
Happy weekend all,
Martin

[BSB67]

If you are using the vacuum advance that might contribute to your problem.
At unloaded idle you still have some vacuum, advancing the ignition. When putting in gear, the rpms drop, the vacuum drops further, the ignition is retarded...the engine is powerless and about  to die...
Without the vacuum advance, try 24 degrees initial timing, maximize mechanical advance to 12 degrees in the distributor...giving a total of 36 degrees...this works well with my 383. The idle is still lumpy of course, but the engine doesn't die in gear.
It's interesting to note that I passed the Swedish exhaust control with good values in spite of  the lumpy, seemingly inefficient combustion at idle.

my timing is at about 25 and with the advance it's at about  35 . i have no vacuum advance only mechanical but we're in the ball park.

i'm thinking of changing the torque converter to a TCI SATURDAY NIGHT SPECIAL it's got a flash stall of 2000-2200.
i think that's what this  set up needs and the easiest way to fix this problem.

what do you guys think?   thank you for your help  

Now check the timing with the car in gear and report back.

[BigBlockSam]

from what you're describing the Dymanic 10in street/strip converter would be my choice.

i've searched and can't find this converter . can you point me in the correct direction? what are the advantages of a 10 inch converter over a 12 inch?

you don't know how happy this thread has made me . i really dig this car and to think that i can get a better idle with just changing the converter makes me happy, happy , happy   

[greenpigs]

Try here:http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/dynamicracing.html

[Ghoste]

The 10 inch converter is going to allow your engine to run up to a higher rpm before it starts moving the car forward so the net effect is that it moves the engine into the camshafts powerband quicker.  The result of this of course is a more efficient use of available torque.
A slightly simplified way of looking at it but that will be the end result that you feel.  A higher stall speed is what you will have.

[BigBlockSam]

The 10 inch converter is going to allow your engine to run up to a higher rpm before it starts moving the car forward so the net effect is that it moves the engine into the camshafts powerband quicker.  The result of this of course is a more efficient use of available torque.
A slightly simplified way of looking at it but that will be the end result that you feel.  A higher stall speed is what you will have.

very good explanation. i understand the concept . i was just wondering if there was an advantage going with a 10 inch converter over a 12 inch.

thanks for the link greenpigs . it is on top of my christmas list

[BigBlockSam]

hey

i'm gonna order the 10 inch dynamic converter . is there anything else that i need for installation ? will it bolt up to my stock flex plate? any problem with starter?

while i'm there i will change out the front seal . thanks Rene

[firefighter3931]

hey

i'm gonna order the 10 inch dynamic converter . is there anything else that i need for installation ? will it bolt up to my stock flex plate? any problem with starter?

while i'm there i will change out the front seal . thanks Rene

Good choice on the converter 

You will need a new flexplate with the 10" bolt spacing as well as larger 7/16" converter bolts. Mopar performance has this stuff and it's relatively inexpensive.

http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/mopsixbolsfi.html

http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/moptorconbol1.html


Ron

[greenpigs]

hey

i'm gonna order the 10 inch dynamic converter . is there anything else that i need for installation ? will it bolt up to my stock flex plate? any problem with starter?

while i'm there i will change out the front seal . thanks Rene

Wondered what I needed also, got a B&M flexplate off Ebay...was for a cast crank.

[lighting74]

take your cubic inch and double it that will get u your carb size or real close

[ACUDANUT]

 Edelbrock #1411 750cfm Carb with electric choke in parts section.