What does engine & tranny builder have to do to get 727 tranny shift at 6000rpm

[1Bad70Charger]

I am having my 440 and torque flight 727 tranny in my 69 Road runner both built up in high performance mode to turn my 69 Road runner into a street driven ground pounder.

It will NOT be a manual valve body as I won't be doing much racing and I just want to put it in a drive and hit the go fast pedal. When I am going WOT on the street or on a great occassion at the drag strip, I want the 1/2 and 2/3  shift to shift at 6000 rpm. What does my engine and tranny builder need to do to insure that this happens?

I of course will talk to him about this but want to educate myself and hear from the experts here also.  

Thanks in advance!  

[Ghoste]

Install the correct governor that enables that.

http://www.aandatrans.com/Departments/Chrysler-727-Trans/Governor-Kits.aspx?page=2

[1Bad70Charger]

Install the correct governor that enables that.

http://www.aandatrans.com/Departments/Chrysler-727-Trans/Governor-Kits.aspx?page=2

You da man Ghoste  (good name for Halloween by the way)! 

Anything else have to be done since he is rebulding both engine and tranny and both will of course be completely out of the car, how about thottle cable linkage, etc.?

[John_Kunkel]

Good luck getting it to shift at the same rpm on both the 1-2 and 2-3 shift, in many cases it will shift at the desired rpm on only one shift, not the other.

In such cases the return spring under one of the shift valves needs to be changed to match the shift points, Rick at A&A can supply the spring if needed.

[1Bad70Charger]

Good luck getting it to shift at the same rpm on both the 1-2 and 2-3 shift, in many cases it will shift at the desired rpm on only one shift, not the other.

In such cases the return spring under one of the shift valves needs to be changed to match the shift points, Rick at A&A can supply the spring if needed.

Can the return spring under the shift valve be installed to match the shift points after the 6000 rpm governor is put b/f the car is road tested.  Or is there no way to get this close on both the 1/2 and 2/3 shift while building the tranny and the only way to nail it down would be by road testing the car and then making the adjustments with the return spring from that point?

Want to get it as close as possible when its all apart and don't have to go back in the tranny if i can avoid it once she is all buttoned up.

[John_Kunkel]

Nope, only a road test will determine the actual shift points and they might change with time.

That's why I don't mess with governor weights, watch the needle and move the lever...that way you control the shift points.

[1Bad70Charger]

Nope, only a road test will determine the actual shift points and they might change with time.

That's why I don't mess with governor weights, watch the needle and move the lever...that way you control the shift points.

I hear ya, manual shifting is the way to nail it down but with my keeping my column shifter its a bit of pain to do.

Looks like my tuner will be doing a little more road testing as I want to nail this down as close as possible.

Thanks for your input!  

[BSB67]

Road test and trial and error.  First, you don't know that 6000 rpm is the right rpm, and second, the best shift point for 1-2 might be different for 2-3.  You might be able to get to 6000 rpm with adjusting (lightening) the inner governor weight alone. If not you'll need to mess with the spring too. Adjust the governor weight to get the desired 2-3 shift.  Then change the 1-2 shift valve spring to get it where you want it.  You'll be doing good if you can get where you want it to be with 3 trips under the car.