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street 440 dd build

Started by red79, October 25, 2010, 08:56:06 PM

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red79

so, starting the process of getting together the parts for my daily driver 440 build. man, it's hard to get out of the mentality of 'well, what makes the most hp?' when deciding what to use  :yesnod: my goal is to build a motor for as much fun on the street as I can, while keeping in mind that this will be a dd and need to be able to handle road trips, etc. To this end, I'm going to keep the stock converter, and the tall 2.71 8 1/4 rear end until I break it with all the low-end torque I hope to be making  ;D any help and suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

i'm starting with a 73 smogger, steel crank, 902 heads.

Keep:
intake
heads (new springs if necessary, minor valve cleanup/porting if i can afford)
steel crank
rods
stock converter

New:
HP manifolds
KB 237 flat top pistons, 0.005 in the hole for 9.8+ CR
hydraulic cam/lifters

my main hangup at this point is the cam. with stock converter and tall rear end (2.71 until it breaks, 3.23 after that), I need to keep the power band as low as possible. Lunati's Voodoo Hydraulic line (60301, 60302) seems like it will fit the bill, with advertised rpm ranges of 1000+ and 1400+, or CompCam 21-222-4 (1300+). My worry is that with these low duration, low lift grinds, I'm not taking full advantage of the motor's potential. But for a generally low-revving engine, is this the best choice for maximum low end torque?

FLG

Used these in my 446 Build

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/UEM-IC9953-030/

Nice set, got em from mancini for a bit cheaper than summit. A lot of people arent fond of the hypereutectic pistons.

1Bad70Charger

Quote from: FLG on October 25, 2010, 11:29:58 PM
Used these in my 446 Build

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/UEM-IC9953-030/

Nice set, got em from mancini for a bit cheaper than summit. A lot of people arent fond of the hypereutectic pistons.

That is the best pricing I have seen on a forged piston, looks good, will strongly consider using for my new high perf. 440 street/strip build to be done over this winter.

FLG,

These are the exact ICON full forged piston that Ron recommended for your build, right?

With Eddy 84 cc Heads, what is the most compression I can make with these pistons using a thinner Fel-Pro Gasket?

Thanks for posting up!  :cheers:
48 year old Self Employed Trial Lawyer (I fight the ambulance chasers); 1969 Plymouth Roadrunner A12 Tribute Car, Built 505ci; Silver 2008 Hemi Dodge Challenger SRT8, Black 2006 Corvette Z06 427ci LS7-Keep God First, Family Second and Horsepower Third.  Interests:  God, Fast American Cars (old and new), Classic Muscle Cars, German Sheperds, Guns, Animals and the Great Outdoors (sick of Chicago).

FLG

Ron recommended the 6 pak replacement slugs, turns out there now impossible to find and these are the replacement of the replacement  :nana:

Im not sure about your compression, id say shy over 10:1 but id wait for the experts.

With my heads and blocked decked these sat 10 in the hole btw, so a Felpro 1009 gasket is about the thinnest id use.

greenpigs

  With 9.8 CR that I am assuming you calculated from measurements, I think the 301 & 302 may give you to much cranking "pressure". Something with more duration &  lobe seperation with .500 lift max would be what I would pick for stock heads like this. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-21-224-4/ This should be a decent cam and someone that knows can chime in if I'm off(very possible).
1969 Charger RT


Living Chevy free

red79

i've always heard that the hypers are fine, as long as you're not building a dyno-crushing stroker and keeping the CR under 11 or so. Since i'm not looking for top-end power in this motor, i figured the hypers would be a good way to save a c-note. am I wrong?

as for the cams, the 60302 is a 220/226@.050 0.475/0.494, the 21-222-4 is 218/224@.050 0.462/0.470. In fact all the lunati profiles seem to have more lift for similar durations than the comp cams grinds, which seems like a bonus to me, you have to jump on every opportunity to take advantage of our big mopar lifters imo  :2thumbs:

elacruze


I'd toss the rear axle before I did anything else. I have 3.55's in my pickup and I'm perfectly content going down the hiway at 65mph and 20mpg. (318 2bbl)
1968 505" EFI 4-speed
1968 D200 Camper Special, 318/2bbl/4spd/4.10
---
Torque converters are for construction equipment.

HPP

For daily driver duty, I'd go with as much cylinder pressure as possible for your altitude with the shortest duration cam while keeping it out of detonation. Try to match your torque peak with your most common cruise rpm and you will get huge mileage gains and massive power under foot.

madmike

There is nothing wrong with Hypereutectic pistons, especially for the street.  I have Keith Black hypers in my daily driven, Chevy (gasp!) four wheeling truck with a bored and stroked 454 (out to a 489 - gasp!).  I've been running this for about five years.  It has seen some high rpm mud runs, and a lot of heavy duty low rpm pulling situations in rock crawling, towing and such.  This motor pulls like a tractor.  I have had no failures with this engine.

I wouldn't hesitate to run hypers in a future Chrysler stroker motor build, especially in the northeast part of the country while waiting for the engine to warm up.  The motors with forged pistons are a bit noisier until fully warmed up.

Mike

red79

just got of the phone with Chris at Engle, turns out they have some nice new grinds that take advantage of mopar lifters. settled on a K56 grind, 224@0.050 0.504" 112˚ center. should have a clean idle with plenty of vacuum, and that high lift will give a nice hard pull from 1800-5500 or so  :coolgleamA:

yeah, looking forward to dumping the rear end for something beefier, ideally a 3.23 or 3.55 8-3/4. I'll take the opportunity to get a rear sway bar in, which will require modifying the perches, so i'm trying to save all the rear end work for another day (budgets being what they are)

1Bad70Charger

Quote from: red79 on October 26, 2010, 12:15:18 PM
just got of the phone with Chris at Engle, turns out they have some nice new grinds that take advantage of mopar lifters. settled on a K56 grind, 224@0.050 0.504" 112˚ center. should have a clean idle with plenty of vacuum, and that high lift will give a nice hard pull from 1800-5500 or so  :coolgleamA:

yeah, looking forward to dumping the rear end for something beefier, ideally a 3.23 or 3.55 8-3/4. I'll take the opportunity to get a rear sway bar in, which will require modifying the perches, so i'm trying to save all the rear end work for another day (budgets being what they are)

Congrats on the Engle Cam and Chris is great to work (at Engle).  I now have in my possession their K58/60 fast ramp K series cam going into my 440 engine this winter that I just bought through Chris at Engle several weeks ago.

Great selection on your cam the K56 is the same one from Engle that FLT went with and should be perfect for you guys!  :cheers:
48 year old Self Employed Trial Lawyer (I fight the ambulance chasers); 1969 Plymouth Roadrunner A12 Tribute Car, Built 505ci; Silver 2008 Hemi Dodge Challenger SRT8, Black 2006 Corvette Z06 427ci LS7-Keep God First, Family Second and Horsepower Third.  Interests:  God, Fast American Cars (old and new), Classic Muscle Cars, German Sheperds, Guns, Animals and the Great Outdoors (sick of Chicago).