Neutral safety switch

[Hemidog]

I have the later 3 prong NSS, and managed to break one of the pins, now the BU lights don't come on.

I bought a new NSS switch and connector (the old did not stay on), but now the car will not crank, but the BU lights work.

I tested the old switch for current(continuency?) and the multimeter beeps when:
-I touch the outer pins and the switch is NOT pressed in (which is the reverse lights)
-I touch the middle pin and the metal part of the switch (pressed in)

The multimeter does NOT beep when I touch the middle pin and metal part of the switch when it is pressed in on the new switch.

What gives? I know the old switch worked, and they are physically identical as far as I can see   Other than that the return spring on the old switch is worn.

There isn't different types for different years, and the look alike?
Faulty new NSS?

[Nacho-RT74]

as far I know the middle pin has continuity with center contact ALLWAYS. No need to keep pressed. Round end desing is just to run over the roostercomb untill meets with metal sections of it, giving the ground signal

Is correct, outer pins have continuity with button out. Then cuts when pressing in... plastic section. center metal has nothing to do with reverse and as I stated, must keep continuity with center pin, plastic prerssed or not.

IN FACT inside the tranny the ground position works normally with plastic pressed in, since plastic only jumps out on reverse

[mikepmcs]

I have to leave mine unconnected because it causes the reverse lights to be on in drive as well as reverse.

[Hemidog]

as far I know the middle pin has continuity with center contact ALLWAYS. No need to keep pressed. Round end desing is just to run over the roostercomb untill meets with metal sections of it, giving the ground signal

Is correct, outer pins have continuity with button out. Then cuts when pressing in... plastic section. center metal has nothing to do with reverse and as I stated, must keep continuity with center pin, plastic prerssed or not.

IN FACT inside the tranny the ground position works normally with plastic pressed in, since plastic only jumps out on reverse

So if the center pin and the metal piece of the button does not have continuity, then the NSS must be faulty?

[Hemidog]

I have to leave mine unconnected because it causes the reverse lights to be on in drive as well as reverse.

So you have no reverse lights?  Sound like it is a problem with the transmission switch between the reverse and the other gears.

[mikepmcs]

No, when i plug my new NSS in and i'm in park, no lights.  when i put it in reverse, i have lights, and when i put it in drive the reverse lights are still on too. So i unplugged the thing. I've have put 2 new switches in it, same thing.


If the old NSS worked I would take a pin off the new one and adhere it to the old one or if you have the old broken pin, cold weld that bad boy back on there.  That could work.

[John_Kunkel]

If the BU lights stay on in gears other than Reverse, either the plastic shoe is broken off of the roostercomb or the wrong roostercomb is installed in the trans.

[Hemidog]

If the BU lights stay on in gears other than Reverse, either the plastic shoe is broken off of the roostercomb or the wrong roostercomb is installed in the trans.

Hey, John, do you think my new NSS is faulty?

[mikepmcs]

Thanks John.  Guess I'll just run it as is. 

[Nacho-RT74]

as far I know the middle pin has continuity with center contact ALLWAYS. No need to keep pressed. Round end desing is just to run over the roostercomb untill meets with metal sections of it, giving the ground signal

Is correct, outer pins have continuity with button out. Then cuts when pressing in... plastic section. center metal has nothing to do with reverse and as I stated, must keep continuity with center pin, plastic prerssed or not.

IN FACT inside the tranny the ground position works normally with plastic pressed in, since plastic only jumps out on reverse

So if the center pin and the metal piece of the button does not have continuity, then the NSS must be faulty?

thats my guess

wait a minute... you have a 68 right ? why the 3 prongs switch ? shouldn't have the one pin switch ?, or did you changed the tranny allong with the engine ( noticing you have a 400 ) ? or maybe roostercomb ?

[Nacho-RT74]

If the old NSS worked I would take a pin off the new one and adhere it to the old one

not that easy! BTDT

[Hemidog]

as far I know the middle pin has continuity with center contact ALLWAYS. No need to keep pressed. Round end desing is just to run over the roostercomb untill meets with metal sections of it, giving the ground signal

Is correct, outer pins have continuity with button out. Then cuts when pressing in... plastic section. center metal has nothing to do with reverse and as I stated, must keep continuity with center pin, plastic prerssed or not.

IN FACT inside the tranny the ground position works normally with plastic pressed in, since plastic only jumps out on reverse

So if the center pin and the metal piece of the button does not have continuity, then the NSS must be faulty?

thats my guess

wait a minute... you have a 68 right ? why the 3 prongs switch ? shouldn't have the one pin switch ?, or did you changed the tranny allong with the engine ( noticing you have a 400 ) ? or maybe roostercomb ?

My drivetrain has been changed, so it has the 69-later NSS.