Oil Leak Help - Found it - YIKES!

[Long Island RT]

After about 150 miles - I have to tear down the front of my engine because it's pissin oil everywhere .  I'm hoping I could get some advice before I tear it down further.

Oil was all over the lower hose so I started pulling off everything down to the vibration dampener.  Here's some reference shots:


Here you can see the splatter all over the front of the timing chain cover.  So I'm thinking that it must be the front seal.





Not sure if you tell if maybe I installed my oil slinger backwards.  If I poke a screwdriver in there it definitely jingles around pretty freely.

Here's a shot of the dampener with a nice wear ring on it looking like it was making a good seal?


So I'm not sure

Any suggestion would be appreciated.

Thanks
LIRT

[RD]

did you lubricate the front main seal prior to installation of your harmonic balancer?

[Long Island RT]

If you mean just spreading a little oil on the outside of the hub where it contact the seal.......  I think so, but now I don't remember.  I put the engine together over 2 years ago.

Could that have ruined the seal and caused this leak?

[RD]

sure could have.  its best not to use oil, but rather a thicker lubricant that stays in one place prior to start up.  oil will, in a short amount of time mind you, be pulled away due to its fluidity.

i use a lubricant, similar to vaseline, that is made specifically for transmission rebuilding to put on my front and rear main seal prior to startup.

[Cooter]

Looks like you painted the sealing area of the balancer....Big No,No...That will make one leak like hell as well...

[Long Island RT]

Crappo - That's the way it came.

Can I sand it off and polish?
I suppose I need a new seal.....

[elacruze]

Looks like you painted the sealing area of the balancer....Big No,No...That will make one leak like hell as well...

Install a new seal and remove the paint from the sealing surface. I'd use stripper or a little DOT3 brake fluid applied by finger to keep it close to the problem area. Be sure the sealing surface is perfect, if not use crocus paper on it like you would a crank journal. Use a little 3M 1104 gasket sealer between the seal and the front cover, they can leak between. Vaseline works good for a seal lube.
It's hard to see in the photo, you do have the slinger on the crank behind the seal, yes?

[Long Island RT]

Yes - I do have the slinger.  I just hope I put it in right.  I guess now I'll find out.
Is theer any recommended brands I should buy (or not buy)?

Thanks

[elacruze]

Can't go wrong with Chicago Rawhide.

[Cooter]

Yes - I do have the slinger.  I just hope I put it in right.  I guess now I'll find out.
Is theer any recommended brands I should buy (or not buy)?

Thanks

I would think you'd know it if it was in incorrectly, as it is "Bowl" shaped and if installed backwards would be all in the T-chain...

[Long Island RT]

Well, I pulled off the water pump and found this:





My ARP timing bolts were too long and cut through the cover.

Can't believe I didn't here this - I guess that's because I broke in the cam with open headers.....

Here's the bolts:




I guess that's why I lost 1/2 quart of oil in 150 miles.....

[tan top]

  damn 
  least you found it !! 
!!  wonder if any metal found its way into the oil pan 

[Long Island RT]

I figure I'd at least do an oil and filter change. 

[The70RT]

I know you can get a sleeve for the balancer for a SBC, maybe they make one for a BB mopar as well.

[RD]

that is just crazy!  never saw that before.

[Long Island RT]

Turns out my "motor home" style water pump housing had a raised button on the back that was cast into it.   It lined up right were the cam sprockets bolts rubbed on the timing chain cover.  I ground off the "button" along with a little shaving of the ARP bolt heads and I can now "oil can" the timing chain cover (with no gasket).  The water pump housing now clears the timing cover by 1 millionth of an inch.

My concern is that I don't know how much pressure was being forced on the cam and jamming it back into the engine and what kind of damage that could have done.  The engine was running great.  My oil is a little dark for only 150 miles - not black - but not new looking as it should be.

I'd really like to hear your comments but I'm hoping an oil and filter change would be sufficient.  I really don't want to tear this engine down.  It would kill me slowly......

[FLG]

How about buying one of those big oil filter magnets and run that for awhile? 

[Long Island RT]

I never believed those things work.  Anything piece of metal that is big enough to be attracted by the magnet would be picked up by the filter - No?

[Charger-Bodie]

Id probably drop the pan and see whats in there. If there isnt much filings or whatever in there Id just change the oil about 4 times and hope for the best.

[FLG]

True 

Im sure a drain plug magnet would be of assistance though 

[tan top]

Id probably drop the pan and see whats in there. If there isnt much filings or whatever in there Id just change the oil about 4 times and hope for the best.

    yep would do the same 
  i would prolly put a couple speaker magnets inside also

[RD]

Id probably drop the pan and see whats in there. If there isnt much filings or whatever in there Id just change the oil about 4 times and hope for the best.

    yep would do the same 
  i would prolly put a couple speaker magnets inside also

http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=2&Product_Code=A44839B&Category_Code=A727mis

use these magnets.  i have them in all my transmissions.  very strong and cheap.

[Long Island RT]

Silly question - What do I do with the magnet - just stick it in the bottom of the pan?  How many do you use?

[nvrbdn]

a small magnet or two in the pan bottom will collect all the minute metal shavings floating around in the oil or trans fluid usually flat style stuck to the bottom of the pan.

[Cooter]

Yep, Factory has been using 'em for years in Tranny pans...