Tapping Noise on Fresh 440

[Bigun426]

Being that this is my first post I want to say Hey to everybody. Slowly going back together with my 66 Charger I have installed a fresh 440 that had all the right things done but were they done right? the engine starts and runs perfect but it has tapping sound coming from the lifters( if not lifters sounds just like them). The engine sits for a couple of weeks and when I start it you get that lifter noise until oil pressure builds up except for one or two on the right forward bank. This noise is constant until the engine gets hot and the tapping disappears altogether until I rev the engine to 2000 or higher rpm's the tappings starts again and disappears as the engine slows down. So far I have replaced the whole valve train with mopar performance parts. MP distributor drive and bushing and fuel pump eccentric. Noise is coming from top of engine when I narrow it down with a stethoscope. Noise definitely not coming from lower end of engine. The engine does have forged pistons stainless valves(with a 5 angle valve job that I am not familiar with) the rotating assembly balanced within a gram,double roller timing set.  I'm grasping at straws now. Do I need wait until I can drive it to break it in properly?     Thanks Brad

[b5blue]

Heads cut or surfaced? This lowers the rocker shafts slightly changing the effective length of the pushrods, they "appear" too long pressing down to far into lifter preload. Variances in rebuilt engines stack up so if heads have been cut or/and the block decked rocker shafts need to be raised that amount with shim kits the same amount. Mancini racing sells them. Other fixes are adjustable rockers, adjustable pushrods (Smith Brothers) and "cut to fit pushrods". My 440 clops till fully warmed up then just about goes away. The danger is if they are so far off they push the valve down so far the valve sticks. (rather extreme end of the scale) An assortment pack in 3 thicknesses is by far the cheapest option "if" that is the problem at about 35.00. You would try the thinnest and go thicker if that didn't work. This is assuming that is the oversight in your build and you have not been running the new oil without the zinc additive needed for flat tappet engines, in that case you may have wiped out a new cam and lifters.    Also WELCOME to the forum!! My name is Neal but you can call me b5, I've been addicted to Chargers for 15 years and have no hope of recovering anytime soon!       

[Bigun426]

Heads cut or surfaced? This lowers the rocker shafts slightly changing the effective length of the pushrods, they "appear" too long pressing down to far into lifter preload. Variances in rebuilt engines stack up so if heads have been cut or/and the block decked rocker shafts need to be raised that amount with shim kits the same amount. Mancini racing sells them. Other fixes are adjustable rockers, adjustable pushrods (Smith Brothers) and "cut to fit pushrods". My 440 clops till fully warmed up then just about goes away. The danger is if they are so far off they push the valve down so far the valve sticks. (rather extreme end of the scale) An assortment pack in 3 thicknesses is by far the cheapest option "if" that is the problem at about 35.00. You would try the thinnest and go thicker if that didn't work. This is assuming that is the oversight in your build and you have not been running the new oil without the zinc additive needed for flat tappet engines, in that case you may have wiped out a new cam and lifters.    Also WELCOME to the forum!! My name is Neal but you can call me b5, I've been addicted to Chargers for 15 years and have no hope of recovering anytime soon!       

I think your on to something b5. According to my build sheet the blocked has been square decked and the heads surfaced. I have Amsoil racing oil 20w/50 in the crankcase and the spec sheet on the oil says its heavy on zinc and the other additives needed for older engines. If I understand your post right that Mancini offers shim stock that goes between the rocker shafts and the shaft pedestals?

[RECHRGD]

I have a ticking/knocking noise that comes and goes.  I'm 99.9% sure it's my CompCams ProMagnum lifters bleeding down and then pumping back up.  I'm replacing them with Lunati lifters on Tuesday.  I'll let you know.  Bob

[b5blue]

Correct. I found these on ebay and just ordered a set for 12.00 for my car. They are thinner than Mancini's but include more of them. When they get here I'll let you know what's up with them. They could save a small fortune if they work as opposed to adjustable rockers or cut to fit pushrods on a hydr. lifter engine. There are also shims that slide on the rocker shafts to center the rockers on the tip of the valve. (Something else to check on) A "checking pushrod" that is adjustable is available that you can use to get a proper preload depth. When compared to stock pushrod length it will give the shim thickness needed. This will only work if everything is fairly even across the valve train assembly.