Anyone know where I can get a fuel return style fuel filter?

[mauve66]

or if you are already using a regulator and it has an extra un-used port you could use it as the return to the tank and keep the regular plain filter as a straight through job

[472 R/T SE]

Different view, little closer shot of my Allphin canister.

[472 R/T SE]

It is the Disco-Mill. 

Your PM box is full Mr. Popular. 

[Bobs69]

I think my car is vapor locking, but how do I know for sure.  What are the symptoms.

[Brock Samson]

it means the fuel is evaporating out of the lines prior to getting to the Carb. to be burned, it happens when hot obviously,
and is different then when the starter heat sinks and wont crank intill cool.

  when my old 318 in the charger would Vapor Lock an old mechanic told me to put an old fashioned clothes pin on the fuel line just before the carb. which actually seemed to help amazingly enough, i figgured it was the spring on the pin helped to dissipate the heat... 

[hotrod98]

The first trip out in the Superbird, the car vapor locked about a block from the house. We poured cool water over the steel fuel filter and the car started right up. Since changing fans and adding a thermo switch to the aux electric fan, we've had no new problems. Still, Il would like to add a return style filter to the bird and both runners just for extra insurance.

[maxwellwedge]

It is the Disco-Mill. 

Your PM box is full Mr. Popular. 

I just want to be left alone!   

[hotrod98]

I put the bird up on the lift today and discovered that it already has a correct vapor seperator on it. I could have sworn that I saw a standard fuel filter on it when I first got the car. Maybe I was thinking about my 69 runner. Anyway, since installing the 224 seven blade fan and hooking up a 185 thermostat on the electric fan, I haven't had any problems so maybe it will be okay. We've driven it several times to cruises, etc.
I'll find out this weekend in Branson at the Super Summer Cruise whether or not it's going to give me any more problems.  Stop and go traffic at near 100 degrees temps all weekend.
I'm still trying to find a 223 fan. I think that would pretty much assure me of not having any overheating problems.

[b5blue]

I think my car is vapor locking, but how do I know for sure.  What are the symptoms.

Heat soak and vapor lock have similar symptoms, more cranking over to get started when hot and parked briefly, if it's real bad idle quality goes down hill the hotter it gets. I thought I might have vapor lock but putting this part on made no difference, it still took extra cranking to get started after any any shut down under about a half hour or so. (It fired right up when cold) I found a reference in an article on six packs recommending using valley pans with the "heat" blocked off for any aluminum intake, it suggested drilling a 1/8th hole in both or at least the block off under the choke stove to allow some heat in there if using an automatic choke. I tried it and it worked like a charm. I live in Fl. where heat is relentless and unforgiving, with the heat blocked off (with 1/8th holes drilled in the center of both sides heat block offs) and the canister everything is working fine. The heat crossover allows too much heat to build up under the floor of the intake and fuel is vaporized before hitting the cylinders. I don't run headers though and that could throw a lot more heat in the mix. 

[hotrod98]

I took the bird to the Super Summer Cruise in Branson this past weekend and as soon as I started idling the car, it tried to die. I managed to keep it running but was too paranoid to drive it much all weekend. The temps were over 100 all weekend.
I ran into an older mopar guy that said that he always blocks off the crossovers and places an insulator pad under the intake. He doesn't have any overheating problems. I'm going to do the same thing and see how that goes. I had forgotten that many big blocks had the foil back insulator pad there from the factory. 
I'm still looking for a 223 fan.
Maybe it'll cool off and I can worry about this next year.

[maxwellwedge]

That foil insulator is for noise and would probably heat the intake more with it installed.

[hotrod98]

Where would the heat come from if the heat crossover has been blocked? I can't see the insulator pad causing more heat under the carbs. Any heat that can be blocked from heating up the bottom of the carbs would be a good thing.
I may be wrong but the engine seemed to run a little cooler with the air grabber opened. I had forgotten to open it when I first had the overheating problems this weekend. The car never vapor locked but it acted like the fuel was boiling in the carbs and smelled like the exhaust does when an engine they diesels. If I have to, I'll buy an aluminum radiator and whatever else is need so that I can drive this thing without problems. As long as it's under 90 degrees, I can idle around all day long.
The temp gauge quit working altogether as well this weekend. With all of these problems you would think that I would hate working on the car by now but for some reason I don't. I guess I just want to drive the car so much that these things just don't bother me.

[maxwellwedge]

The air gap betwwen the valley cover and the bottom of the intake will keep the intake cooler than the foil which will just help transfer heat. It was really just meant as an engine noise reduction device on the luxury cars.

[hemigeno]

The air gap betwwen the valley cover and the bottom of the intake will keep the intake cooler than the foil which will just help transfer heat. It was really just meant as an engine noise reduction device on the luxury cars.

[nascarxx29]

Silencer pad . That mice made there nest in as well

[hotrod98]

If the pad won't help with the overheating problem I'll leave it off of the to-do list. 

[moparstuart]

I think my car is vapor locking, but how do I know for sure.  What are the symptoms.

Heat soak and vapor lock have similar symptoms, more cranking over to get started when hot and parked briefly, if it's real bad idle quality goes down hill the hotter it gets. I thought I might have vapor lock but putting this part on made no difference, it still took extra cranking to get started after any any shut down under about a half hour or so. (It fired right up when cold) I found a reference in an article on six packs recommending using valley pans with the "heat" blocked off for any aluminum intake, it suggested drilling a 1/8th hole in both or at least the block off under the choke stove to allow some heat in there if using an automatic choke. I tried it and it worked like a charm. I live in Fl. where heat is relentless and unforgiving, with the heat blocked off (with 1/8th holes drilled in the center of both sides heat block offs) and the canister everything is working fine. The heat crossover allows too much heat to build up under the floor of the intake and fuel is vaporized before hitting the cylinders. I don't run headers though and that could throw a lot more heat in the mix. 

can you post some pictures or explain where the 1/8 holes go     a buddy of mine need to do this and wants to understand it better

[hemigeno]

can you post some pictures or explain where the 1/8 holes go     a buddy of mine need to do this and wants to understand it better

I'm pretty sure FelPro makes intake manifold valley pans that do not have any hole or other provisions for the heat crossover.  If you still want the choke to be functional, you can drill a small hole -- 1/8" should work -- in the metal valley pan directly over the heat crossover hole.  That allows a small amount of heat to still transfer to the chokewell without transferring too much heat to the bottom of the carburetor or air/fuel mixture inside the manifold.  Not sure if the holes need to be drilled on both sides, or just the side nearest the chokewell.

[moparstuart]

can you post some pictures or explain where the 1/8 holes go     a buddy of mine need to do this and wants to understand it better

I'm pretty sure FelPro makes intake manifold valley pans that do not have any hole or other provisions for the heat crossover.  If you still want the choke to be functional, you can drill a small hole -- 1/8" should work -- in the metal valley pan directly over the heat crossover hole.  That allows a small amount of heat to still transfer to the chokewell without transferring too much heat to the bottom of the carburetor or air/fuel mixture inside the manifold.  Not sure if the holes need to be drilled on both sides, or just the side nearest the chokewell.

ok i understand now , i have the blocked off valley pan in mine because i got tires of repainting the six pac intake where it would burn the paint off .  Never had any choke problems .   
    I will pass that info on to my buddy rick

[hotrod98]

This is Fel Pro kit number Z1214.
Does this look like it would block off the heat crossovers?

[moparstuart]

This is Fel Pro kit number Z1214.
Does this look like it would block off the heat crossovers?

as long as those center holes in the valley pan are not cut out yes .

[hemigeno]

This is Fel Pro kit number Z1214.
Does this look like it would block off the heat crossovers?

Yep, that would be the one.  That tin pan doesn't have any holes or other provision to let air/heat through.  If you wanted to make it function more like the originals, you'd have to open that area up at least some.

Here is a picture of an NOS Chrysler valley pan - note the difference in the crossover opening from the one you just posted...

[b5blue]

I drilled holes in both sides (1/8th) works like a charm. By doing both sides you allow a tiny bit of flow from the differential in pressure side to side. More effect in really cold weather and no noticeable draw back in hotter. (I live in FL. and it's friggin HOT!) A word of caution, the sets come with gaskets that may be too thick, I was pissed to realize for my build I should have ordered a set of thinner gaskets to go with this adaptation to adjust the thickness of the gasket, pan, gasket sandwich. In a rush to get my car back on the road I had to slightly ream the bolt holes on my intake. I'll never replace the pan again without an assortment of thicknesses again! There was a web page I found researching what was wrong that covered how to determine just what gaskets are needed involving shimming with feeler gauges and such but dry fitting with an assortment on hand seemed easier after all was said and done.       

[moparstuart]

the birdible motor as of tonight ready to go back togeth

[moparstuart]

 the intake paint looks and stays much better with them blocked off