73 charger wont shut off

[casey j]

i have a 73 charger w 318 ,msd ignition setup 6a series, and im in the process of installing a painless wiring harness. i cant get the car to run unless i supply 12v to small red wire from the msd box all the time, when i do that the car wont shut off from the key. what should be done with the small red wire from the msd box and do you think i mite have a bad ignition switch

[Dodgecharger74]

as i remember the small red wire needs to be switched

[casey j]

thanx thats excatly what i did i ran a switch to 12v then to the red wire. Car runs good and i can shut it off now. Just waiting on air filter and box and shifter and cable. Then i have 4 freeze plugs to do andit has to be dun in 3 day no sweat though thanks for the help

[pistolgrip]

did u say u ran a switch? i have an msd box on my 74 charger. when the guy said a switched circuit. i think he ment to put the red wire on a circuit that is hot only when u turn ur key on. there should be a slot on your fuse block with such a circuit. that way u can do away with the switch u added, and the car should stop when u turn your ignition switch off


pistolgrip

[John_Kunkel]

Here we go again, the Mopar ignition switch has two ignition circuits IGN1 and IGN2. IGN1 is powered only in the RUN position and shuts off in START, IGN2 is powered only in START and shuts off in RUN. The Painless Wiring system doesn't take this into account.

In order to make the factory ignition switch work with the MSD the two IGN circuits must be spliced together and then run to the small red wire on the MSD.

[ACUDANUT]

 Here we go again. IMO the factory electronic ignition is great left alone. Why bother with a MSD.

[Nacho-RT74]

In order to make the factory ignition switch work with the MSD the two IGN circuits must be spliced together and then run to the small red wire on the MSD.

actually, no need for that... take the coil wire  keeping the ballast to feed the small red wire is enough. This brown wire being output from ballast to coil gets both ign ( 1 and 2 ) signals. This signal is just a switch on to the MSD, so the voltage decay won't affect the performing of the MSD. I mean just in case you want get back to factory electronic system later.

Here we go again. IMO they factory electronic ignition is great left alone. Why bother with a MSD.

totally agreed. Just need to get the right one.

Cost againts effectiveness... The PROPPER "stock" ignition is more valuable

[John_Kunkel]

actually, no need for that... take the coil wire  keeping the ballast to feed the small red wire is enough.

You're right, in my reply I assumed the ballast was eliminated or the Painless Wiring didn't take into account the two ignition circuits.

[Nacho-RT74]

well I don't really know what he made on its car, he in fact still haven't told us in detail, I'm just talking about the work from the stock.

the car keeping running looks like another problem diff than the deal we were talking about. Somehow, it looks the small red wire is being constantly feeded

If he made the painless installation, would need to know what harness he got and what exactly he made

[TylerCharger69]

Why not just connect the small red wire to the IGN 1 circuit???

[John_Kunkel]

Because the IGN1 circuit shuts off when the key is turned to the Start position.

[TylerCharger69]

Yes...that's what you posted earlier...which is why i asked  I understood it as per factory....IGN 1 shuts off during start and turns on during run....So what is the difference?   Am i missing something?  Or were you referencing to the ignition upgrade already?

[Nacho-RT74]

if he made the PAINLESSS wiring we need to know how he wired the start and run circuit, since as far I know, Painless is Chevy bassed where just one wire/circuit feeding everything unlike Mopars with 2 circuits ( linked both throught the ballast )

[mopar0166]

I dont mean to steal a thread here but i have been trying to figure out why I am encountering a simualr issue with my 69 charger.  I have read all the msd threads on here and looked at the msd web site and it all shows that "it SHould be right"  but the fact is that its not if when i tur the key the engine is still running. 

correct me if im wropng but the small read wire it s tiggered 12+ wire that gets juice in the run and start position.  the thick red gets power all the time. 

After testing the curcuits and trying differnt combos last night , i wana say that the im still getting 12v on the ign 1 which i think is brown and then 12v in the blue when key is run.   starts and runs great, just wont shut off.   

i hope its not a ign switch issue but my ignition seems to be a little different then wha ti see in the manual i have a terminal for BAT which has constant 12v, an ign 1 brown wire , ign 2 blue , i beleive a SY terminal and a ACC Terminal.  Id have to geues thier shoudl be some 12v output even withe the ign off ,  any input would be awesome

[Nacho-RT74]

how do you turn off the engine at this moment?

[mopar0166]

Hey Nacho ,

well it just started for the first time last week,  and we encoutered that issue.  after Hours and Hours of yet again chasing wires and diagrams. (this winter i cleaned up my under dash electric from the fist time i did and made it "more stream line")   well I had an extra 12v+ lead that was directly feeding the IGN2 (run) terminal.  once i removed it and then hooked the msd and ignition back the way its suppose to be, it started right up and shut off fine.   

Im glad i solved it cause it was really bugging me.   If anyone has 440 msd questions let me casue i feel like an expert right now. 


Thanks again for responding.