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Quick ampmeter ammeter question.

Started by mauibarber, June 18, 2010, 12:43:07 AM

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mauibarber

I want to make sure I have my ampmeter hooked up correctly.  The way mine is set up now when the car is running it shows + amperage.  For example, my fans take about 30 amps and when they kick on the ampmeter kicks over to +30.  Is this correct or should the meter be reading -30?  My meter rarely if ever goes into the negative range, only when i am starting the car will it very slightly dip into negative range.

I am having a problem where my ampmeters are only lasting about a year and half before dieing.  I have all 8 gauge wires running to the alternator/battery/ampmeter.  Any ideas?

Thanks,
Alex

Charger´69

Quote from: mauibarber on June 18, 2010, 12:43:07 AM
I want to make sure I have my ampmeter hooked up correctly.  The way mine is set up now when the car is running it shows + amperage.  For example, my fans take about 30 amps and when they kick on the ampmeter kicks over to +30.  Is this correct or should the meter be reading -30?  My meter rarely if ever goes into the negative range, only when i am starting the car will it very slightly dip into negative range.

I am having a problem where my ampmeters are only lasting about a year and half before dieing.  I have all 8 gauge wires running to the alternator/battery/ampmeter.  Any ideas?

Thanks,
Alex

My ampmeter works just like your´s now when I have properly working voltage regulator in it, so I think your´s works just fine also  :2thumbs:

To that I don´t know answer why your ampmeter doesn´t last long  :shruggy:
Plymouth Fury "Christine's Sister" 4x4 6-71 1959
Dodge Charger R/T 440cid 1969
Pontiac Trans Am T-top SuperBandit 400cid 1978
Jeep Cherokee Renegade 4x4 3.7 2006

John_Kunkel


One way to increase the life of an ammeter is to limit the amount of current that has to flow through it. For example, high-draw items like the fans should be powered directly from the battery by use of a relay and not run through the ammeter.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

b5blue

Your amp gauge is not made to handle 30 extra amps, the way the studs are attached is a kinda pressed crimp that all that extra heat is working over good. You should run control relays to take the power from inside your dash harness. RTE will beef up that connection inside your gauge for you. Do a search here there are lots of good wiring tips. (and links)  :2thumbs:

mauibarber

Quote from: John_Kunkel on June 18, 2010, 03:51:52 PM

One way to increase the life of an ammeter is to limit the amount of current that has to flow through it. For example, high-draw items like the fans should be powered directly from the battery by use of a relay and not run through the ammeter.

My fans are already run off the battery, but when they kick on the alternator will boost its power to compensate for the draw on the battery and that current from the alternator will go through the ammeter.  The only thing going through the ammeter is current from the alternator.   Not sure how you "reduce" the draw?

By the way, these are aftermarket ammeters I am using and they are rated up to 60 amps (at least they read up to 60 amps).

b5blue

Good about the gauges, you power the fans from alt. output not battery, (bigger stud on back of alternator)  www.madelectrical.com  Check this site out for an overview and tips.  :2thumbs:

1970Moparmann

When mine reads over +35, the wires start smelling (frying)....  Mine only reads over +20 when it's charging the battery.  When it get's the battery "caught up", it reads just over center in the +.   :2thumbs:
My name is Mike and I'm a Moparholic!

b5blue

By running off the battery all the power must run out of alt. and through bulkhead connectors (weak spot) then to main splice and gauge then back out of bulkhead connector to the stud on starter solenoid then to battery to replace power draw.  :eek2: 

NMike

convert the AMP gauge to a Voltage gauge. more important and less distructive

there is a reason that there are NO OEM Amp meters and any cars today.

Nacho-RT74

Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Charger´69

Quote from: Nacho-RT74 on July 01, 2010, 09:49:50 AM
read ALL of these:
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,62772.0.html

Thanks for advice  :2thumbs: I was just going to buy biggest battery to my Charger that will fit to original place, but now when I red that I won´t do that  :2thumbs:
Plymouth Fury "Christine's Sister" 4x4 6-71 1959
Dodge Charger R/T 440cid 1969
Pontiac Trans Am T-top SuperBandit 400cid 1978
Jeep Cherokee Renegade 4x4 3.7 2006

Nacho-RT74

you can mount it, as far you makes the correct upgrades ( wires and alt ) proportionally to the batt. Read the links posted there.

anyway my advice is a bigger than stock, but not THE BIGGEST one. Then fit the correct alt to your needs.
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

2Gunz

Quote from: mauibarber on June 18, 2010, 12:43:07 AM
I want to make sure I have my ampmeter hooked up correctly.  The way mine is set up now when the car is running it shows + amperage.  For example, my fans take about 30 amps and when they kick on the ampmeter kicks over to +30.  Is this correct or should the meter be reading -30?  My meter rarely if ever goes into the negative range, only when i am starting the car will it very slightly dip into negative range.

I am having a problem where my ampmeters are only lasting about a year and half before dieing.  I have all 8 gauge wires running to the alternator/battery/ampmeter.  Any ideas?

Thanks,
Alex

I made a crude diagram to hopefully help explain things.

In a nutshell and very simplified an amp gauge measures the direction and amount of electricity.

Your amp gauge is reading correctly. However your car is wired incorrectly to use an amp gauge.

To accurately get a reading EVERY AND ALL electrical items inside the car EXCEPT the starter need to be on the alternator side of the Amp gauge.  (B on my drawing)

The situation you have happens when some electrical items are connected on the battery side. (A on my drawing)


In "normal" operation (AKA stock)  Devices come on they use power and if the Alternator is able to cover the amount of power needed to run them its a Charge situation. ( Positive amperage).
If the devices come on and the alternator cant cover the needed amount of power to run them then it will use the battery as a reserve. This is a discharge situation.  (negative amperage).

In you case.....

Because of where the fans are wired in, it is "tricking"  the amp gauge into thinking its charging the battery.  The reality is power is flowing to the battery so that it can power the fans.

Basically the amp gauge is useless in this setup.  Why?

The amp gauge is telling you that its charging the battery with +30 amps.  However the fans could be using 40 amps, thus slowly draining the battery and you are non the wiser.

At this point the only thing of value that the gauge it telling you is that the Alternator is working.



Solutions.............

You could put the fans and whatever else is connected to the battery onto the proper side of the amp meter. Upgrade all the wiring and install a shunt on the amp meter.
This would make the gauge able to handle whatever amount of amperage you need.


The second is just get rid of the stupid gauge and put in a volt meter.   There is a reason you wont find an amp gauge in a modern car................. Because they display mostly useless
information and are technically limited.

Below is my bad drawing.  I hope this post helped.














Nacho-RT74

2 GUNZ... GREAT DIAGRAM for those who doesn't understand the ones I have made :2thumbs:... some other details on the info to add but mostly thats the deal

but:

QuoteThere is a reason you wont find an amp gauge in a modern car................. Because they display mostly useless
information and are technically limited.

you know I'm not totally agree on this LOL
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

2Gunz


I know Nacho. Just different schools of thought.


Funneling all the cars power through a gauge just to show how much the car is charging seems pointless to me.

I mean its cool to watch and all......

But charging 10 amps...   15 amps ....   0 amps .     What are you going to do with that information?


All you need to know is if the alternator is working or not.   A volt gauge will do that and a volt gauge doesn't need to have ALL the power pushed through it.
It just needs to be connected to any power source.



Anyway I think your a very smart guy and very knowledge about electronics and chargers and I respect that.
However I'm going to agree to disagree.

b5blue

Just to clarify all the power from the alt. goes into the main junction prior to the amp gauge, the gauge reads a differential between output and battery, as in if you are drawing from battery it reads - and if you are charging battery +. How much the draw is and in what direction it is as a differential can tell me plenty, I can turn on my lights, heater/defroster and wipers and other than the reaction bip on the gauge it is centered. I to respect your way/approach for your car, I just want to be clear on the gauges intended function as it seems there is much debate going on that has some flaws in basic assumptions.   :2thumbs: