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So what the hell happen to the superbird rear window moldings??????

Started by DoubleDlover, June 29, 2010, 05:05:03 AM

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DoubleDlover

ok. Mike over at B/E & A told me back in april they were going to finish up the moldings and they would be ready soon... I havent heard anything. what hapend>????? :brickwall:

Aero426

Did you call Mike back and ask him?

No I don't think they are shipping yet.   

hotrod98

I talked to him about three weeks ago and he said that they were almost ready. He mentioned that there are two versions of the moldings out there and that he was making these so that they could be altered to fit correctly. I think he said that one version was longer than the other and that his would be the longer version and if needed could be altered when the shorter version was needed. At least that's the way that I understood it. Did any of that make sense?  ;D


Normal is an illusion. What is normal for the spider is chaos for the fly.
Charles Addams

62 Max

How could there be two versions of a molding that fits one glass opening?Either you make it right or don't make it at all. :scratchchin:

hotrod98

He said that they found two versions on Superbirds from the factory. The glass has little to do with the size of the moldings. It's the plug that makes the difference. Mike Ross is a smart guy and is/was a Superbird owner. Call him. He'll be more than willing to talk to you.

You don't think Chrysler would have built anything that wasn't absolutely perfect do you?  ;D

I remember when Mike Goyette with Dayclona told me the story about how when they built the wing car parts absolutely identical to the originals that didn't fit well...the wing car people complained. Then, when they built them to fit and they didn't look exactly like the originals...the wing car people complained. I bet Mike Ross gets a lot of that too.




Normal is an illusion. What is normal for the spider is chaos for the fly.
Charles Addams

62 Max

Quote from: hotrod98 on June 29, 2010, 11:28:19 PM
He said that they found two versions on Superbirds from the factory. The glass has little to do with the size of the moldings. It's the plug that makes the difference. Mike Ross is a smart guy and is/was a Superbird owner. Call him. He'll be more than willing to talk to you.

You don't think Chrysler would have built anything that wasn't absolutely perfect do you?  ;D

I remember when Mike Goyette with Dayclona told me the story about how when they built the wing car parts absolutely identical to the originals that didn't fit well...the wing car people complained. Then, when they built them to fit and they didn't look exactly like the originals...the wing car people complained. I bet Mike Ross gets a lot of that too.




I have had my bird since 1982,looked at a lot since then.Have had at least three sets of moldings since then,two were N.O.S..Only ever saw one type of molding on an original car.Someone would have to show me something different and document it as being original. :Twocents:

tyly

Plymouth Superbird 440 six-pack, 4-speed, 15000 miles
Dodge Charger -70 RT/SE Hemi
Dodge Challenger convertible -70 6.4 SRT HEMI

http://tyly.kuvat.fi/

62 Max

Now,is it correct or does it have a separate piece to attach the two top sections in the middle? For that kind of $$ I would hope so.

superbirdtom

so now there will be two places making s bird rear window trim??   I can see the advantage of making one that is longer in a couple places so you can cut it to fit if the plug is smaller opening than some other birds. but you sure can't add to the rear window trim if you happen to have a bird with a bigger plug hole. I  would like to see both products side by side for sure.

moparstuart

GO SELL CRAZY SOMEWHERE ELSE WE ARE ALL STOCKED UP HERE

mauve66

Quote from: moparstuart on July 01, 2010, 11:29:31 AM
Quote from: tyly on July 01, 2010, 05:04:28 AM
New Reproduction 1970 Superbird Rear Window Trim

  http://moparplus.com/product_info.php?cPath=64&products_id=1165
P G and BE&A are the same products


yes but only to a point, everyone i talk to says BE&A comes to market later but fits better than P G
Robert-Las Vegas, NV

NEEDS:
body work
paint - mauve and black
powder coat wheels - mauve and black
total wiring
PW
PDLKS
Tint
trim
engine - 520/540, eddy heads, 6pak
alignment

62 Max

Quote from: superbirdtom on July 01, 2010, 11:20:12 AM
so now there will be two places making s bird rear window trim??   I can see the advantage of making one that is longer in a couple places so you can cut it to fit if the plug is smaller opening than some other birds. but you sure can't add to the rear window trim if you happen to have a bird with a bigger plug hole. I  would like to see both products side by side for sure.

There are no two different size window plugs nor are there two different size rear glass.look at product engineering,one glass one plug.If some makes an aftermarket plug then that's a different story.Still only one glass that I know of.With only 1900 + birds built why would there be two different size plugs? Makes no sense what so ever..

hotrod98

You're saying that all 2000+ plugs were assembled and welded in the exact same way with no variances. The glass I can understand and no one ever said that the glasses were different.
Call Mike Ross at BEA. Then let us know what he said and how he came to the conclusion that to make everyone happy, he was going to make the moldings in such a manner that he could please everyone.
I've talked to him already and obviously I failed miserably at getting the point across in this thread so I would like for someone else to talk to him and then explain it to me.  I may have totally misunderstood his explanation. If I'm wrong, I'll apologize immediately for misleading anyone.
I'm a little dense sometimes.  ;D


Normal is an illusion. What is normal for the spider is chaos for the fly.
Charles Addams

DoubleDlover

Yes. I can see how the plug could be slightly different now and then. since it was welded together. I beleave thats why they have those slip joints in the molding. You know. About an inch of one molding slips into the other molding.  Hes making them so they are all extra long. So all you have to do is cut and file them till they just slip into place on your plug. That i understand. And that fine if thats what he can do. Its better then what i have. Which is noth a F***ing thing. but. They wont have the factory appearance missing those slip joints. So does anyone have any ideas on how we might be able to put those in the moldings after buying them?

hotrod98

My understanding was that the new moldings would have the slip joints just like the originals. The difference between the short and long versions was minimal so the slip joint won't be affected.


Normal is an illusion. What is normal for the spider is chaos for the fly.
Charles Addams

DoubleDlover

you might want to ask mike again. But he told me no slip joints... :(

superbirdtom

looks to me like the p.g. classics s-bird rear window trim has slip joints like original.

hotrod98

Quote from: DoubleDlover on July 02, 2010, 12:38:21 AM
you might want to ask mike again. But he told me no slip joints... :(

If he said no slip joints then I'm sure there will be no slip joints. That's not good.

Tom, the PG parts are the same parts that Mike's making. They aren't the same company but they share many of the same parts.


Normal is an illusion. What is normal for the spider is chaos for the fly.
Charles Addams

superbirdtom

so p.g. classics is in Canada and B/E a is in america. I can see both working with same tooling company's on some but not all parts, as on B/E and A website they say they make their own tooling and have total control over the whole manufactuering process.             

                                       Of course all I am interested at this time is the s-bird rear window trim. why would anyone go to the trouble at B/E a to make superbird rear window trim without the sleeves when P.G. classics makes it already with the sleeves??

Aero426

The part has to be made correct as original.  Mike Ross wouldn't do it any other way.    Nobody is going to spend that kind of money if it is not correct.     Whatever rear window trim PG will sell and BE/A will sell is going to be the same.   


Troy

As we've discussed before PG Classic is the manufacturer but Mike Ross at BE&A pretty much designs and specs out all the parts. He's also responsible for decisions on how "correct" something needs to be and also, ultimately, for quality. BE&A is based in the US while PG is in Canada. PG sells parts without part numbers/logs that aren't licensed by Mopar and BE&A only sells the ones with the part numbers and Mopar licensing (usually this accounts for the price discrepancy between the 2 companies). However, all parts for both companies are made on the same tooling at the same plant (probably at the same time). I seriously doubt that one company will have a part that's different than the other - unless something has changed that I'm not aware of.

Troy
Sarcasm detector, that's a real good invention.

hotrod98

Quote from: superbirdtom on July 02, 2010, 08:47:57 AM
so p.g. classics is in Canada and B/E a is in america. I can see both working with same tooling company's on some but not all parts, as on B/E and A website they say they make their own tooling and have total control over the whole manufactuering process.             

                                       Of course all I am interested at this time is the s-bird rear window trim. why would anyone go to the trouble at B/E a to make superbird rear window trim without the sleeves when P.G. classics makes it already with the sleeves??

Tom, did they tell you that their parts would have the slip joints or are you going by a pic of the part? I'll bet the pic that they're using is of an original set of moldings since they've had a pic of the moldings on their website long before the new parts ever came out of the new tooling.


Normal is an illusion. What is normal for the spider is chaos for the fly.
Charles Addams

62 Max

Quote from: DoubleDlover on July 01, 2010, 10:46:20 PM
Yes. I can see how the plug could be slightly different now and then. since it was welded together. I beleave thats why they have those slip joints in the molding. You know. About an inch of one molding slips into the other molding.  Hes making them so they are all extra long. So all you have to do is cut and file them till they just slip into place on your plug. That i understand. And that fine if thats what he can do. Its better then what i have. Which is noth a F***ing thing. but. They wont have the factory appearance missing those slip joints. So does anyone have any ideas on how we might be able to put those in the moldings after buying them?

If I read this correctly,the plug is not welded together but one stamping if that is what you wre refering to.Farther on in the engineering data there are three more pieces that came with the plug,two side supports and a botton glass support.

superbirdtom

Quote from: hotrod98 on July 02, 2010, 10:05:32 AM
Quote from: superbirdtom on July 02, 2010, 08:47:57 AM
so p.g. classics is in Canada and B/E a is in america. I can see both working with same tooling company's on some but not all parts, as on B/E and A website they say they make their own tooling and have total control over the whole manufactuering process.             

                                       Of course all I am interested at this time is the s-bird rear window trim. why would anyone go to the trouble at B/E a to make superbird rear window trim without the sleeves when P.G. classics makes it already with the sleeves??

Tom, did they tell you that their parts would have the slip joints or are you going by a pic of the part? I'll bet the pic that they're using is of an original set of moldings since they've had a pic of the moldings on their website long before the new parts ever came out of the new tooling.
I am just going by the pic of the moulding.   my god if theyre going to use a pic of a factory moulding and then sell a different one without being exact as original.  I would be blazing mad if I spent the 1300 dollars and it wasn't the same as factory.   They need to get that pic off there and put on the one theyre selling!

62 Max

Quote from: superbirdtom on July 02, 2010, 02:10:16 PM
Quote from: hotrod98 on July 02, 2010, 10:05:32 AM
Quote from: superbirdtom on July 02, 2010, 08:47:57 AM
so p.g. classics is in Canada and B/E a is in america. I can see both working with same tooling company's on some but not all parts, as on B/E and A website they say they make their own tooling and have total control over the whole manufactuering process.             

                                       Of course all I am interested at this time is the s-bird rear window trim. why would anyone go to the trouble at B/E a to make superbird rear window trim without the sleeves when P.G. classics makes it already with the sleeves??

Tom, did they tell you that their parts would have the slip joints or are you going by a pic of the part? I'll bet the pic that they're using is of an original set of moldings since they've had a pic of the moldings on their website long before the new parts ever came out of the new tooling.
I am just going by the pic of the moulding.   my god if theyre going to use a pic of a factory moulding and then sell a different one without being exact as original.  I would be blazing mad if I spent the 1300 dollars and it wasn't the same as factory.   They need to get that pic off there and put on the one theyre selling!

Back to what I said earlier,make the damn thing right or don't make it at all.There is too much of that right now on a lot of reproduction parts. :Twocents:

DoubleDlover

actualy you can clearly see NO slip joints on the trim on PG's site. Yes. The moldings from them and from mike are one in the same. He told me that as well. Im not saying the moldings are no good just because theres no slip joints. I will be happy to get them. Hell of a lot better then what i can come up with. Im just hoping someone knows or has a way to flair out the ones that have it. Because actualy. The joints on the sides dont have slip joints. The factory actulay made one molding smaller on one end to slip into the other. The slip joints are at the 12 oclock and 6 oclock possisions. anyone here who has a real bist go out and look at yours and you will see what im talkign about and make can explain it better. Or even ad a pic. ron

62 Max


DoubleDlover

62 MAX.. YES!!!  As you can see. Instead of the one molding flaired out its actualy flaired in a little and slips into the molding next to it. So not having the slip joint there wouldnt be so noticable. But the ones like i said atteh 12 and 6 oclock possistios Do have the normal joints we are all use to seeing. So. since mike is making them all longer. Thats great. all we have to do is find someone who can put the flair in them for us. or figure out how to do it ourselfs and we are in great shape. Im still super happy that he is making them and i'll still be happy to buy a set. Like i said. Its better then anything i could have done. If the factory could stamp in the joint. Im sure someone out there in the world can also.

superbirdtom

you know  I sure don't mind as 99% of the work is done and something  really close has been made. and I appreciate that

DoubleDlover

yes i agree. I apperciate all teh work and trouble mike is going though to do this not only for him to make some money but for us and the hobbie. I think if he gets it that close. Thats wonderfull. And if we all get lucky and find someone that can do that one part to make it complete. Then yay for everyone. :) So. Where would we look to have something done like that? makign the slip joints?

superbirdtom

I would do it myself as i have experience in fabricaton the two factory slip joints at 12 and 6 oclock  are male and female joints. I would just call b/e and a and see if they would send me mine without those side joints and then flare out the female ones at 12 and 6 oclock.

DoubleDlover

i would love some ideas on how to flair out those ends without screwing up the moldings

nascarxx29

   :Twocents: I was able to take a non superbird upper side from 70 rr cant recall what side it was .And with a original damaged piece used for a template modify it.Copy it.And it fit .The bottoms pieces no luck duplicating them there unique
1969 R4 Daytona XX29L9B410772
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23UOA174597
1970 FY1 Superbird RM23UOA166242
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23VOA179697
1968 426 Road Runner RM21J8A134509
1970 Coronet RT WS23UOA224126
1970 Daytona Clone XP29GOG178701

62 Max

Quote from: nascarxx29 on July 04, 2010, 11:28:51 AM
   :Twocents: I was able to take a non superbird upper side from 70 rr cant recall what side it was .And with a original damaged piece used for a template modify it.Copy it.And it fit .The bottoms pieces no luck duplicating them there unique

Dave,you can only do that with the driver side top.You can use the pasenger side but after you cut it to length you have to use the expanded 1" piece as a connector.

superbirdtom

to create the slipjoint I would use bending force not anything with a hammering motion, I would maybe use some reverse pliers that I would fabricate to open the channel while having the piece locked in place at the point where the flare would begin. Id have to get measurement of factory flange . I would only use pressure to form the outward bump on the female part. I would like also to know  what stainless the piece is made of ,(304 stainless )an austinetic grade or what ,to know how much bending it can hack without cracking.

                                  I never think that far ahead I just know  I could probably do it and only really figure out how when I have the piece in front of me. I have a couple extra pieces of stainless coronet rr trim I would practice on first.  If I ever do do it I will take pics to share, I am sure the female end is exactly the same dimentions  as a 70 runner maybe contoure is different  but at least get practice on a factory piece first.

superbirdtom

Quote from: nascarxx29 on July 04, 2010, 11:28:51 AM
   :Twocents: I was able to take a non superbird upper side from 70 rr cant recall what side it was .And with a original damaged piece used for a template modify it.Copy it.And it fit .The bottoms pieces no luck duplicating them there unique
_____________________I have always wondered if any pieces from a  70 4 door coronet rear window trim could be used as I believe they are unique to that car only. and the window although squarer is closer than any other trim I can think of. I believe the 70 coronet 4 door rear window trim is very close to a daytona.   anyone care to comment  i could be totally wrong.

62 Max

Quote from: superbirdtom on July 04, 2010, 12:51:02 PM
to create the slipjoint I would use bending force not anything with a hammering motion, I would maybe use some reverse pliers that I would fabricate to open the channel while having the piece locked in place at the point where the flare would begin. Id have to get measurement of factory flange . I would only use pressure to form the outward bump on the female part. I would like also to know  what stainless the piece is made of ,(304 stainless )an austinetic grade or what ,to know how much bending it can hack without cracking.

                                  I never think that far ahead I just know  I could probably do it and only really figure out how when I have the piece in front of me. I have a couple extra pieces of stainless coronet rr trim I would practice on first.  If I ever do do it I will take pics to share, I am sure the female end is exactly the same dimentions  as a 70 runner maybe contoure is different  but at least get practice on a factory piece first.

If you have 70 RR/Coronet top trim,you have what you need.Configuration is identical.The bottom is the problem.I think the 4dr is a different shape/smaller in width.

Daytona R/T SE

You can join two pieces of stainless rear window trim without flaring it.

Just think about that orange plastic hotwheels track we all had as a kid.


I touched on this briefly in my thread about my home made Daytona rear window trim:


http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,21596.0.html

superbirdtom

yeah thats true they would be butted against each other with a toung holding them together.  I still have all my hot wheels track wheel shaped carry case and those little buildings with the battery operated wheels that shoot the cars around the oval track with the original box.  my fastest HW car was a bright pink lincon continental.  they sit on a shelf in my garage now.

oldcarnut

billssuperbird posted this on another thread.
"ted janck told me to use left and right top rear of a1970 rr. for the top left and right on the superbird. and cut to fit. then he told me to use the left and right top rear of 1970 charger. then take the right top rear of the charger and put on left lower rear of the superbird. and cut + bend to fit.then take the left top rear of 1970 charger and put on right rear lower of 1970 superbird. and cut + bend to fit.  ted will do this but i do not know what it cost. i hope this will help you."
It's been a while when I bought my kit but I remember Ted telling me about the same thing.

charge-it

Quote from: 62 Max on July 02, 2010, 02:59:41 PM
Quote from: superbirdtom on July 02, 2010, 02:10:16 PM
Quote from: hotrod98 on July 02, 2010, 10:05:32 AM
Quote from: superbirdtom on July 02, 2010, 08:47:57 AM
so p.g. classics is in Canada and B/E a is in america. I can see both working with same tooling company's on some but not all parts, as on B/E and A website they say they make their own tooling and have total control over the whole manufactuering process.             

                                       Of course all I am interested at this time is the s-bird rear window trim. why would anyone go to the trouble at B/E a to make superbird rear window trim without the sleeves when P.G. classics makes it already with the sleeves??

Tom, did they tell you that their parts would have the slip joints or are you going by a pic of the part? I'll bet the pic that they're using is of an original set of moldings since they've had a pic of the moldings on their website long before the new parts ever came out of the new tooling.
I am just going by the pic of the moulding.   my god if theyre going to use a pic of a factory moulding and then sell a different one without being exact as original.  I would be blazing mad if I spent the 1300 dollars and it wasn't the same as factory.   They need to get that pic off there and put on the one theyre selling!

Back to what I said earlier,make the damn thing right or don't make it at all.There is too much of that right now on a lot of reproduction parts. :Twocents:
How about a list of all the repop parts that are made wrong that you know of so we don't waste our time or money on incorrect parts?
Visit our new website:

http://www.pepsparts.com