Amp Gauge Wiring Question:

[Captain D]

Hi all,

About 2 weeks ago, we removed our old 69' Charger gauge cluster to be replaced w/ a newly restored cluster. We were going to keep the new one in there, but decided that it would be best to keep it out until the car is painted in just about 2-3 weeks from now.

We read that it is safe to keep it out after reading lilwendal's post, which read:

I've recieved a couple requests on the removal of the cluster from the car. So just a brief run down. Others that might have tips here post up!
A. Disconnect battery.
B. Check to see if you disconnected the battery.
C .Pull the radio bezel.  Not doing this is a sure way to loose the lower right corner of the cluster bezel.  Ever notice how many Ebay bezels for sale are missing that corner??
D.Next I like to slide under the dash and disonnect the speedo cable.  It gives more room for getting the cluster aft to disconnect the wiring.
E. Drop the steering column. You can just loosen the bolts to the end of thier travel and that will give enough room to get the cluster out but I prefer to get it completely down and out of the way.  You might also have to loosen the 4 bolts where the column passes through the firewall to get it to come down fully.
F.Now remove the 5 screws that hold the cluster to the dash. The ones visable through the bezel.  Now the only thing that has it is the wiring and the charger vacuum hoses.
G. I start from the left side of the cluster.  Pull it aft just enough to get a hand in there to disconnect the vacuum fitting from the headlight switch.  I often do this when I'm under the dash undoing the speedo cable but it depends on how well you 'fit' under there.  There is a small metal clip,often missing, that holds the rubber fitting on.
H. Now start disconnecting the wiring from that left side.  Each time you unplug a switch or light the cluster will come a little further out from the left side allowing your hand to go a little further right to unplug more. When you get to the terminal board be carefull.  Do not bend or wiggle the connector up and down.  This will weaken the already problematic pins. Do your best to pull it straight off. The last thing to go is the amp gauge wiring that is attached with two 3/8 nuts.
I. That should be it.
If you need to put power back on the car you can simply use a screw and nut to connect the amp wiring terminals.  Then wrap with electrical tape.  Now you can still use the electric and even start the car if desired. Of course you have no way to monitor engine conditions but I do this just to get a car to move around the garage.

The connectors for the switches are all idiot proof where they will only go on thier assocaited switch but it would be a good idea to mark the bulb socket.  That way your high beam indicator doesn't flash when you use your turn signal.

On letter "I," we followed his instructions to put power back onto the car so that we can simply drive it in and out of the garage (without a cluster) in order to get better ventilation while wrapping up on the bodywork. However, the other day, it had a difficult time staying on and today it would not start at all. It has been running strong and perfectly fine this past week and half or so, but all we hear now when we try to turn her rover, is a "doink" sound. Would this simply be a blown fuse or relay or do you feel that this is something electrically related with the hot-wire rigging we had done based in lilwendal's instructions to start and run the car w/out a cluster? The amp wiring terminals are attached to a nut and bolt to where they are not touching and wrapped w/ electrical tape, just as he described to do above... Anyone else do what he suggested and have any similar problems?

Thank you for your time and for any feedback,
Aaron

[bakerhillpins]

I can't see any reason why his suggestion would be bad for the car as the Ammeter that was removed and replaced with a bolt is designed to have very small resistance, just as the bolt would.

When you put a bolt in to connect the ammeter terminals did you finger tighten it or did you actually tighten it up with a pair of pliers/wrench? If you only finger tightened the bolt I would start by making sure that your bolt jumping out the ammeter is still tight. The large current draw through that connection would quickly make a bad connection if it were marginal to start.

If you do find that it is loose, tighten with a wrench, a loose connection at that point will create arcing and could be a fire hazard.

[b5blue]

Also check bulk head connections. 

[Captain D]

Bakerhillpins - You hit the nail on the head - Things could have been tighter, so we ensured that everything was tight and reinforced the electrical tape as well. Sure enough, the car fired right up. I apologize if it seemed as if I was panicking, b/c I probably was, lol. We're almost ready for the paint and the last thing that I needed was something going wrong.

Thank you guys for the replies and for the guidance! Whew...I can sleep better tonight!
All the best,
Aaron

[bakerhillpins]

Glad that I could be of help! 

Post up some pics of the car when you get her painted.