New ammeter wiring

[Dmichels]

As most of you know the charging circuit runs threw the dash harness to the ammeter then back out again to the engine compartment. Here is what I did to eliminate 2 potential trouble points I took the ammeter out and soldered the studs to the ammeter They are just  a press fit and from what I here can cause trouble. The other was to eliminate the wires going threw the bulkhead connector. Mine were burnt up and really made me nervous. I just bypassed the connector and soldered in a jumper. They will pass threw their own grommet. I saw no need to put in disconnect but I am sure you could find a high amperage one if you wanted to.
PS always solder wires and use heat shrink tubbing in any electrical work you do Don't use those cheep crimp connectors. It takes a few more minutes to do it right. Your wiring will look neat and you will never have any trouble.
Dave

[1BAD68]

Good thinking.
I did this conversion on mine and it made a huge difference...
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

[Dmichels]

Cool I like how he drilled  the bulkhead connector and ran the wires threw it I think there is some extra room in mine makes a more stock look.
Thanks

[Nacho-RT74]

no no no no...

read EVERYTHING of this:
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,62772.0.html

( specially the 1st board link on it )

[Dmichels]

Ok you run a paralel wire to and from  out side the bulkhed connector. Mabey I don't get. You look like you know what you are talking about so I will listen and learn. I wanted to keep my ammeter just was trying to reinfouce the existing ciecuit. Not trying to to go high output  or any thing. What am I missing ?
Thanks Dave

[Nacho-RT74]

with a good alt, it will be able to feed the car without ammeter sense the load. In fact the ammeter just sense the load in couple of situations:

-when alt is not able to feed the car requirements, then the extra juice demand comes from batt ( through ammeter ). This use to happens at low RPMs
-when batt is discharged so sucks the power from alt ( once again, through ammeter ) but just when RPMs is able to do it. Well in fact everything is RPMs related
-Engine off, and using car electricals

when you have an alt able to feed everything, the battery will be practically off of the game. There is a bad concept about the ammeter. It NOT senses strictly the Alt, like the lettering says, really senses what comes or goes to/from batt. You can get an alt able to feed the car and ammeter WON'T MOVE EVER as far batt is full.

we get Discharge and Charger reading... Hey, ALT NEVER GETS DISCHARGE, because is not an acumulator, so there you have the reason about the bad concept the ammeter is an alt gage.

then the bulkhead bad spots are saved with parallels, since they are not able to hold high loads for long time or high peaks of load. When you have a poor alt and batt is constantly being discharged, you'll be stressing all the charging circuit, from wires to ammeter. When you save the alt charging conditions, then you'll need to save the weak bulkhead spots. REALLY and being totally strictly to this concept, the alt wire will be the only side you'll need to reinforce with parallel wires, BUT if alt comes bad, the batt will feed everything, so is better reinforce also that side. Amm will be allmost out of the play because batt barelly will enter on play in regular conditions.