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refreshing 440 and adding a cam some questions

Started by charger2fast4u, June 23, 2010, 06:27:04 PM

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1Bad70Charger

Quote from: Hot_Rodder on July 21, 2010, 09:02:23 PM
Quote from: BSB67 on July 21, 2010, 06:43:29 PM
"with just upgraded ignition, intake, exhaust, bigger cam and more compression. i'm thinking i might need to get the block bored it has a little wear ring inside the top of the piston stroke. when it go's to the shop should i see about decking the top or anything?"

Maybe you don't realize, but this is like 3/4 of the way to doing everything

:rofl: Yeah, not much else to do after all this.

Except adding some Eddy 84 cc alum Heads!  :shruggy:
48 year old Self Employed Trial Lawyer (I fight the ambulance chasers); 1969 Plymouth Roadrunner A12 Tribute Car, Built 505ci; Silver 2008 Hemi Dodge Challenger SRT8, Black 2006 Corvette Z06 427ci LS7-Keep God First, Family Second and Horsepower Third.  Interests:  God, Fast American Cars (old and new), Classic Muscle Cars, German Sheperds, Guns, Animals and the Great Outdoors (sick of Chicago).

Hot_Rodder

Quote from: 1Bad70Charger on July 21, 2010, 11:58:39 PM
Quote from: Hot_Rodder on July 21, 2010, 09:02:23 PM
Quote from: BSB67 on July 21, 2010, 06:43:29 PM
"with just upgraded ignition, intake, exhaust, bigger cam and more compression. i'm thinking i might need to get the block bored it has a little wear ring inside the top of the piston stroke. when it go's to the shop should i see about decking the top or anything?"

Maybe you don't realize, but this is like 3/4 of the way to doing everything

:rofl: Yeah, not much else to do after all this.

Except adding some Eddy 84 cc alum Heads!  :shruggy:
Yeah maybe new freeze plugs and oil pump too... Then the bearings, other than that, what would still be left? Carb for one, but what else? Got a new motor... Anyway, as said, get the compression to around 10:1, maybe 10.5:1, get a cam that is matched up with the rest of your combo. Look into new heads, you can throw a ton of money into factory heads and still fall just short of new heads... But if dead set on running the factory heads and not wanting to spend much money, you'll have to get a set of matched springs to which ever cam you end up running, make sure they are installed to the manufactures spec's correctly, also replace the valve seals while you're at it... Make sure the valve guides aren't worn out, if they are then.... See previous statement about new heads... If you have to get into replacing valve guides and such, you will find out just how quickly the factory head costs can add up. As for aftermarket heads, The Eddy RPM's are nice, I've got a set of Stealth heads that I had Modern Cylinder heads rework, alot... Anyway, the only bad part that I've heard about the Stealth heads, is the keepers/retainers.... Be nice if you could get the heads with out springs, retainers, keepers... Pretty much a bare head but with valves... Oh well.

b5blue

You're in the endless loop now! Here is my  :Twocents: Compression is really related to octane, to run 10.5 to one you need to take out timing or switch to aluminum heads. (As they handle heat differently) If you detune you loose power, if you use aluminum heads you loose money. The cat piss fuel we have today needs a computer and injectors to run the stuff correctly. I really advise before you buy one part you get a Mopar Performance B/RB "how to book" and read it. It is real easy to mismatch components and not ever be happy for what you spent. The book will map out a path to what you want for the best money. Everyone here will help tweak that path even better.  :2thumbs:

charger2fast4u


Yeah maybe new freeze plugs and oil pump too... Then the bearings, other than that, what would still be left? Carb for one, but what else? Got a new motor... Anyway, as said, get the compression to around 10:1, maybe 10.5:1, get a cam that is matched up with the rest of your combo. Look into new heads, you can throw a ton of money into factory heads and still fall just short of new heads... But if dead set on running the factory heads and not wanting to spend much money, you'll have to get a set of matched springs to which ever cam you end up running, make sure they are installed to the manufactures spec's correctly, also replace the valve seals while you're at it... Make sure the valve guides aren't worn out, if they are then.... See previous statement about new heads... If you have to get into replacing valve guides and such, you will find out just how quickly the factory head costs can add up. As for aftermarket heads, The Eddy RPM's are nice, I've got a set of Stealth heads that I had Modern Cylinder heads rework, alot... Anyway, the only bad part that I've heard about the Stealth heads, is the keepers/retainers.... Be nice if you could get the heads with out springs, retainers, keepers... Pretty much a bare head but with valves... Oh well.
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i already have a proform 750 carb edelbrock RPM intake MSD 6al2 ignition system with dist and full tti 3'' x pipe exhaust i'm throwing on this motor. so i figured i was going to go with 10.1 or so and thought a high lift cam would be nice that's how i started looking at the XE284H but you have some good points here. i'd say i'll be throwing $600 at the least after refreshing the heads with springs seals ect.. to get these in reliable shape. i like the line of indy cylinder heads. i was planning on using them on the stroker bluild when i get to it. i was looking at the indy EZ1 heads     http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/indyezheads1.html    what do you's think of them with the rest of the build?