Ignition problem has me stumped! (Found it)

[b5blue]

After changing out my old engine wiring harness with a new Evans "440 6 pack with ECU" replacement due to an "intermittent no start problem" it runs (barely) like crap! I found bad splices and crappy stuff going on buried inside my old harness that would explain the no start issue. After moving the ECU and ballast resistor to the fire wall then running two extension wires over to my Super Coil on the fender to fit the new harness I'm lost as to what is wrong. I checked for proper grounding everywhere and did continuity and voltage checks all over the new install (before trying to run and after it ran poorly) and all appears correct. The engine ran fine (When it would start) prior to this. Now it won't idle without holding the throttle down some and is bogging down badly resisting climbing RPM's. It backfired when I tried to run RPM's up thinking it might just need to clear out the cylinders. I changed out ECU's and that made no difference, the almost new battery is fully charged and cables and connections all clean and tight. Can an ECU be "bad but still work"? I did have weak voltage problems that both ECU's had to live with but the new Denso alt fixed that and charging has been fine since. I did all repairs with the battery negative disconnected. I'm tired, pissed and can't think anymore!   ANY SUGGESTIONS ARE GREATLY APPRECIATED!    

[BigBlackDodge]

Does it have nice blue spark at the plug?

Did you change the timing and or distributer at all?

BBD

[JRP16AZ]

Sounds like a timing issue or distributor problem...Good luck

[b5blue]

I didn't change any settings, I'll check spark tomorrow.  

[b5blue]

Spark is orange, reading off top of transistor to ground is very low but feed voltage is fine. Anyone know if that should read 12 volts? 

[idahogrumpy]

Sounds like the ballast resister to me. To much resistance, wired incorrectly? Grumpy

[b5blue]

I get continuity @ 1 ohm resistance, wiring is new replacement from Evans I checked, Don at FBO suggested the same. I ordered the A688 kit and the correct coil mounting brackets. It's ticking me off not finding and knowing what is wrong/failed. 

[ACUDANUT]

 What year car is it. ? Older 71 and earlier have single post Alternators that put out low voltage, that make cars with ecu's run bad.

[Nacho-RT74]

I think some bad splice around

ACUDANUT, he replaced the alt for a Denso Unit

[elacruze]

Sounds like simply weak ignition. Verify that you have battery voltage minus no more than .5 volts at the battery side of the ballast. If not, track back to the source and battery. If so, verify that all your connections through to the ECM and coil are secure and properly crimped to the wires. I've seen plenty of problems due to crimping connectors over insulation or coated wires, very hard to find because they feel secure and look good at a cursory inspection. If everything looks good, try a new ballast. Search threads for ballast resistor values vs. coil brands.

[b5blue]

 
Pooched coil or both ECU's is all that's left.

[b5blue]

Well I just changed into a complete A688 kit from FBO and no change. New harness, cap, rotor, coil (with six pack coil bracket and coil strap) resistor, ECU and ignition switch............checked float height on all 3 carbs, checked for junk in oil, checked for junk in coolant, checked grounds, checked voltages, checked plug wires, it runs like crap (but a little better with the FBO stuff, but crap). I even just swapped out ignition switches (by passed the new one in the column).....only thing left when it cools down is to pull the plugs and see if they can tell me anything but jeeze I drove it where it's sitting and other than the booger about not starting all the time it was fine.   

[elacruze]

Do a voltage drop test. Measure the voltage at the battery while somebody else cranks the engine. You should see no less than 11 volts while cranking. If you see less, either your battery is failing or your starter is drawing way too much amperage (probably failing). Either way it could be failing to provide adequate voltage for sure starts.

[b5blue]

Thanks I do appreciate ANY input or ideas at this point! I tested and charged my 3 month old battery and 4 month old starter at the beginning of this ordeal. (I even found my meter reads "low" on a 15 volt setting by having testing it's readings against other cars) The battery is charged with my trickle charger after each session till the auto charge gives me a green full charge light. (I don't dare give my new Denso alt. a reason to go to full output yet!) The plugs are all lightly gas fouled except one, maybe the old parts fouled them and the new parts just can't clear them (?!). I'll let it sit overnight and install new NKG XR5's tomorrow. (Gap set @ 35)    

[greenpigs]

A weak spark will do that, hope thats what it was.

[b5blue]

After racking my brain and throwing part after part at this thing I let the whole mess sit for a week. This morning I marked the location of the dist. certain I had not moved it in several months. Per Don at FBO's tuning book I moved it 2* retarded as it was "popping back" through the carbs at about 2K rpm telling me too much advance. It improved so I went 2* more. Again improved even more, enough to get idle well enough to get it started and get under hood to fiddle around. I ended up taking a ton of timing out of this thing and it responded fantastically!!! Totally confused but happier than a pig in poo as to why?how? WTF? this was needed, I'll never know. One of my cardinal rules in trouble shooting is not to change settings of other systems or components when hunting problems, so how the dist. needed moving has me lost!   

[Nacho-RT74]

dunno, but I made a plug and play job

FBO and Firecores already on my car since 4 or 5 days ago, no probs at all.

[b5blue]

I decided to send FBO my old (NAPA rebuilt) dizzy to phase and re-curve. (I'll hang on to the new M.P. one)