News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

Car won't start (Sooo dumb!)

Started by chargerrt, May 25, 2010, 08:56:30 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

chargerrt

So, I'm having problems getting the Charger to start.  Everything was doing fine until I pulled it into the carport a couple of days ago, then decided to leave to get something to eat a couple hours later.  I've checked the connections on the battery to make sure they are good and not corroded.  The lights shine great when I open the door to get in the car.  The amp gauge is reading as it should.  Whenever I turn the key all I get is one "chirp" like it's trying to turn over and then just a rapid clicking sound from somewhere around the starter...probably is the starter.  I know it's stupid of me, but I've never had this problem before.  I'm usually too busy driving the wheels off of the car!

Any help/advice would be much appreciated!  Thanks ahead of time.

69charger440

It sounds like starter. You can try to tap it while starting see if that gets it done. If not then maybe time for a new starter!!! :eek2:
1969 Charger 540 Blown Hemi 1000HP, 69 Road Runner 500 Stroker 665 HP

Charger-Bodie

first things id check is the connections at the firewall bulkhead,then the starter relay,and then the starter wires.
68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

A383Wing

Quote from: 1HotDaytona on May 25, 2010, 09:00:07 PM
first things id check is the connections at the firewall bulkhead,then the starter relay,and then the starter wires.

And the battery connections....just because the headlights are fine, it takes more amps (power) to turn starter over

elacruze

Maybe Your battery is just dead.
1968 505" EFI 4-speed
1968 D200 Camper Special, 318/2bbl/4spd/4.10
---
Torque converters are for construction equipment.

twodko

Check the neutral safety switch as well.

Tom
FLY NAVY/Marine Corps or take the bus!

Cooter

It is most likely the starter, OR a bad connection at the batt. terminals...

Try cleaning terminals and try again....If not, I assume you are running one of the newer style starters (Mini) and all that goes wrong with them is the two pieces that actually "Contact" each other inside..Somewhere, there's a company that offers a "kit" to rebuild for this condition, but I can't remember now...
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

dpixel

Try disconnecting the battery and reconnect it.  I think that resets the starter relay.  I had a problem like that years ago.  I remember trying to put a new starter in at work while it was snowing.  After I reconnected the battery it would crank over once.  Then disconnected it again to check my connections at the starter and it did the same thing.  It ended up being the relay. 

chargerrt

Well, I fiddled around with the car some today after work and just decided to start with the easiest stuff first, which I have learned in the past is typically a smart move.  I decided I'd check the battery again, even though I did a check-up on it about 3 months ago.  The battery tester at Autozone said it needed a charge for it to get a better read, so I just went ahead and bought a new battery since I'd had that one for around 4 years.  I came home, put some anti-corrosion jelly on the terminals and battery cables, even though they were already clean, hooked up the battery, pumped the gas three times, turned the key, and the car roared to life like a champ.  I hate when stupid things like that happen.  Regardless, it's running now.  I'll definitely be replacing the crappy positive battery cable that came with the car with a new one in the coming weeks and I'll probably go ahead and change the starter relay for a new one before it decides to go out.

Thanks!

A383Wing

Step #2....is the battery being charged by the alternator? If not...then you will be in the same boat in a while that you were in a while ago

elacruze

I should have been more explicit.

The clicking solenoid is always due to low voltage, whether poor connections or low battery voltage.
Having bright headlights can fool you, they only mean that the battery can deliver enough current to supply the lamp.
If the battery shorts out a cell, it can often stand a certain amount of current but when loaded hard like when using the starter, that cell shorts hard and drops out leaving you with ~9-10 volts. Hard to find this without a load tester, or knowing the symptoms in particular. Glad it was simple.
1968 505" EFI 4-speed
1968 D200 Camper Special, 318/2bbl/4spd/4.10
---
Torque converters are for construction equipment.

Fast-Asleep

Quote from: A383Wing on May 26, 2010, 09:05:07 PM
Step #2....is the battery being charged by the alternator? If not...then you will be in the same boat in a while that you were in a while ago

Hi, I'm actually in that boat right now. Between myself and a couple good old school mechanics we've got 100+ hours into trying to figure out why my 68 won't charge the battery.

The battery has been replaced, cables have been checked several times, I've had three different voltage regulators on the car, three different alternators...we've bypassed the amp gauge thinking there was a short in there....there wasn't.

I started to clean up the bulkhead but I'm still not getting a charge into the battery.

We're all stumped so if anyone has an idea, I'd be more than grateful to hear it.

Thanks

W4ATL

Quote from: Fast-Asleep on June 05, 2010, 10:00:33 PM
Quote from: A383Wing on May 26, 2010, 09:05:07 PM
Step #2....is the battery being charged by the alternator? If not...then you will be in the same boat in a while that you were in a while ago

Hi, I'm actually in that boat right now. Between myself and a couple good old school mechanics we've got 100+ hours into trying to figure out why my 68 won't charge the battery.

The battery has been replaced, cables have been checked several times, I've had three different voltage regulators on the car, three different alternators...we've bypassed the amp gauge thinking there was a short in there....there wasn't.

I started to clean up the bulkhead but I'm still not getting a charge into the battery.

We're all stumped so if anyone has an idea, I'd be more than grateful to hear it.

Thanks

Some of the replacement Mopar alternators have the second field grounded with a strap and it is a part of the alternator. Others require the second field connection to be manually grounded. If that second field connection is not grounded it will not charge.

b5blue

And check/clean all grounding straps. Check my topic on cleaning connectors with vinegar and salt, power goes in and out through rather small connectors there in the bulkhead. Lots of resistance can build up and bottle neck in just these 2 wires (black and red).

Fast-Asleep

Thanks...I'll give it a try and let you know how I make out.

CB

So did you manage to find the bug?
Looks like I'm dealing with the same shit :icon_smile_dissapprove:
1968 Dodge Coronet 500

b5blue

Check this sight out there is some very good info here,  www.madelectrical.com