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my 1970 Dodge Charger 500 SE (Rustee)

Started by jcarranco, May 26, 2010, 09:41:44 AM

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MoparManJim


Johnny SixPack

Quote from: Blakcharger440 on May 27, 2010, 05:03:24 PM
Nice project and you brought the best year also!  :2thumbs:

At least someone said it!  :D :icon_smile_big:

Keep up the good work! :cheers:
Johnny's Herd:
'69 Charger SE, '70 Charger R/T SE 496 Six Pack, '72 Chrysler Imperial LeBaron, '74 International Scout II, '85 Ford F-250 Diesel, '97 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series

"If everyone is thinking alike, then someone isn't thinking." - Gen. George S. Patton Jr.

"If its got tits or tires, you're going to have trouble with it." - Unknown

Got Dodge Fever? There's only one cure.....Charger!


Charger-Bodie

Quote from: MoparManJim on May 27, 2010, 06:45:44 PM
Quote from: captnsim on May 27, 2010, 06:38:56 PM
California emissions stuff

In the trunk?


The big tube is caped off so vapor isnt released into the trunk. The just needed the stuff that far above the fuel tank leval.
68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

MoparManJim

Thank you both for answering what that thing was for. I had no clue what is was. Now I do. 

jcarranco

I appreciate everyone's comments.  Thanks everyone.  MoparManJim, you beat me to the question.  I'm including some pictures so you can see the capped off tube.  I have another question though,  that brace that sits above the trunk floor pan that is welded to the rear (5th picture down), and the bumper attaches to is becoming a real pain to remove, a dremel had to be used to try to remove the welds.  What do you guys recommend is the best way to remove those?

The major trunk floor pieces have been cut out.  Starting to remove the remaining edges of the floor.  Some mistakes have been made,  such as cutting to far deep with the angle grinder, and drilling too far with the spot weld cutter, but it's a learning process.  That little spot weld cutter bit I picked up at Harbor Freight for 5 bucks turned out to be awesome,  you do need a center punch tool to make the initial guide for the bit.  Picked it up at Harbor Freight for 5 bucks also, its spring loaded also, no hammer necessary.

5-27-10  Continuation of the Trunk floor removal:

Total time today:  3 Hours.  Tools used:  Angle Grinder, Air Chisel, Electric drill with spot weld cutter removal bit, center punch tool, hammer, crowbar, and surprise tool of the day was:  a dremel tool.














Gimme fuel, gimme fire, gimme that which I desire!

HOTROD

THOSE are your frame support / bumper brackets .
I just cut them off but the piece that is atached to the body is still there and I am having prob removing that tryed the air chisel and ripped in to the body it is thiner metal . I am replacing the hole thing and am making my own frame support brackets just need to find a big binder and wish could post pic's . :2thumbs:
What the Hell-Dumass !

jcarranco

Those frame/bumper support brackets are starting to become a real pain,  but I'll get them off, i just have to be patient.  Just did a little more cleanup of the remaining trunk floor remains.  Started grinding the leftover welds on the frame rails.  There will probably have to be some surgery on the inner wheel well panel.  I will also have to replace the LH trunk extension piece.  It looks like Swiss cheese.  I will also probably have to replace the rear valance panel,  its pretty beat up.  Feedback would be appreciated.  Am i even doing a good job so far?

5-29-10  Continuation of the Trunk floor removal:

Total time today:  2 Hours.  Tools used:  Angle Grinder, Air Chisel, Electric drill with spot weld cutter removal bit, center punch tool, hammer, crowbar, and dremel tool.








Gimme fuel, gimme fire, gimme that which I desire!

69*F5*SE

Looks like you are doing a pretty good job so far.   :2thumbs:

GreenMachine

   Looks like what I went through with mine, I'm a beginner as well. I found it easiest to weaken the spot welds with an angle grinder, then pop them with an air chisel. The chisel in the pic is what I started out using, then I bought a 7" chisel that was curved at the end that worked better (the crappy welds in the pic was due to the weld-thru primer that was anything but). My bumper support brackets were stubborn too, but I hope to sandblast them and re-use. My project is at a stop right now due to having an easier, cheaper project I'm working on.
If it ain't broke, fix it 'till it is.

jcarranco

Well yesterday the final piece that use to make up the trunk floor pan was removed.  In total it took about 12 hours to completely remove the trunk.  I'm sure it could of been done on a weekend, but my busy schedule only allows me a few hours every other day.  It's a good start for me, and next on the chopping block is the tail light panel and rear valance.  

Has any one tried out this abrasive blaster?  http://www.harborfreight.com/110-lb-pressurized-abrasive-blaster-95014.html  I'm thinking of getting it so that I can blast the inner areas of the frame rails before treating them with POR-15.

6-01-10  Completion of the Trunk floor removal:

Total time today:  3 Hours.  Tools used:  Angle Grinder, Air Chisel, Electric drill with spot weld cutter removal bit, center punch tool, hammer, crowbar, and dremel tool.








Gimme fuel, gimme fire, gimme that which I desire!

HOTROD

My  :Twocents: if you blast you will need to use some kinda primer, I used wire wheels and rust-oleum (no flat paint) in the chanels (frames) and weld through primer on the edges .
The rust-oleum has been on my other cars frame for over 10 years it just works for me.

What the Hell-Dumass !

HOTROD

Quote from: GreenMachine on May 30, 2010, 12:04:31 AM
  Looks like what I went through with mine, I'm a beginner as well. I found it easiest to weaken the spot welds with an angle grinder, then pop them with an air chisel. The chisel in the pic is what I started out using, then I bought a 7" chisel that was curved at the end that worked better (the crappy welds in the pic was due to the weld-thru primer that was anything but). My bumper support brackets were stubborn too, but I hope to sandblast them and re-use. My project is at a stop right now due to having an easier, cheaper project I'm working on.

Bad ground  :shruggy:.
What the Hell-Dumass !

chargerdemetrios



You own my dream charger!  The 1970 500 model with the 4-speed.  With this you get the awesome high-back buckets, HUGE pistol grip, and you don't have those stupid door scoops that come with the 1970 R/T that ruin the clean lines of the Charger.  Hopefully your Charger came with the floor console, which makes the shifter look even better (without the console, the shifter coming out of the floor looks like it could be out of a school bus.

Good luck on your ride.

Do you mind me asking where you found it, how much you paid, and how complete was the car.

Thanks and good luck.

-ChargerDemetrios

jcarranco

I found Rustee through http://www.drmopar.com in Neiderwald, TX.  Its basically just a rolling chassis, no motor or transmission, with clean title.  The body was mostly complete only missing the passenger fender,front bumper, grill, and no interior besides the dash and steering column.  I got it for $800.
Gimme fuel, gimme fire, gimme that which I desire!

jcarranco

I wonder if I got a little carried away today.  Almost all the rear panels are gone now.  I was going to get a two piece trunk floor, but now I can get the one piece in, no problem.

On a side note, and not relating to the panel removal process.  I need to get a hold of Galen again.  In December I was informed that Galen actually has the broadcast sheet for my car.  He was supposed to get it back to me, but I never heard back from him. That was back in January.  That would be a treat so that I can find out exactly what my charger came with from the factory.  I can then probably get him to make me a replica fender tag, since it was missing off mine. 

6-03-10  Removal of the Tailight Panel, Rear Valance, and part of the rear LH quarter.

Total time today:  2 1/2 Hours.  Tools used:  Angle Grinder, Air Chisel, Electric drill with spot weld cutter removal bit, center punch tool, and reciprocating saw.





Gimme fuel, gimme fire, gimme that which I desire!


HOTROD

What the Hell-Dumass !

Duran75


MoparManJim

I think one of the tools got alittle to augury.   

Wicked72

omg how did the harbor freight grinder last so long!!! AMD is your new best friend haha. welcome and cant wait to see your progress! :cheers:
M-Massively O-Over P-Powered A-And R-Respected

d/ur/t

Quote from: jcarranco on June 03, 2010, 02:00:13 PM
I found Rustee through http://www.drmopar.com in Neiderwald, TX.  Its basically just a rolling chassis, no motor or transmission, with clean title.  The body was mostly complete only missing the passenger fender,front bumper, grill, and no interior besides the dash and steering column.  I got it for $800.
Gee I advertised my numbers matching K5 70 R/T for 46k it has all the rust done {mainly in rear} just needs a bare metal respray and putting back together,Never even got a call. :brickwall: you did ok but

jcarranco

I'm starting to hear a strange sound every time i use the angle grinder to cut off a piece of a rusted panel.  Its sounds like cha-ching cha-ching,  the sound of a cash register totaling up the price in sheet metal i'm going to spend....

Do you guys recommend i remove that EEC extra tube and piping? 

6-10-10  Clean up cuts and holes with welder, skin RH quarter

Total Time:  2 1/2 Hours.  Tools used:  Angle Grinder, Air Chisel, and Mig Welder






Gimme fuel, gimme fire, gimme that which I desire!

Charger440RDN

Are you gonna sand blast the frame rails?

jcarranco

Gimme fuel, gimme fire, gimme that which I desire!