Just ordered the 120 amp Denso Alt. from Mancini Racing! update

[b5blue]

OK I give up.....last night ether my old "tested" Alt. or my new regulator crapped out. I gave up waiting to hear back from "Quick Start" (I emailed them over the weekend and got no reply all week). This weekend I'll be installing 40 amp control relays and adding an extra feed to the amp gauge wiring (very much like Nachos outlined modifications). Hopefully this mod. will end the crappy idle amps for good. Mancini assured me plenty of idle amps even with a 60 amp unit but for 25.00 more I'll be well away from ever maxing out output. If anyone has used this Denso conversion please chime in. Next I'll bite the bullet on getting new connectors and the proper crimp tool from Waytek Inc. to replicate the factory's crimping to the conductor AND insulator to overhaul any issues in my harness. (I was very shocked to read that Year Ones new harnesses could be defective, seems some have gotten them installed only to find out after hours of trouble shooting that connectors can be assembled without striping back the insulation leaving you with open sections of wiring.) I'll keep track of everything involved if anyone wants info for their build.  

[elacruze]

Do you have V-belts or Serpentine?

My experience with high-amp alternators and V-belts isn't good. I had a 110A alternator on a Chevy van, and I couldn't get the belt tight enough to keep from squealing when the alt was working hard, like right after startup. It ate belts, needed a new one every 5-6k miles.

Anybody else?

[b5blue]

Just regular V belt, food for thought. Called to see if they were 1 or 2 groove pulleys on it and was told they were waiting for more Alts. from Denso so they could not ship it yesterday (all are 1 groove) If this goes back-order I'll try something else! Hopefully it goes out today.

[b5blue]

Well it showed up.....without the harness adapter!    They are expressing one to me tomorrow...sure hope it gets here quick I need to get my car back on line for work Tuesday! (came with double groove pulley installed) I'll post photos of the swap and whatever it takes.

[b5blue]

Well so much for a "wiring adapter".....Art said he was sending one....Tony said "just hook it up, green and blue from regulator and output on output (big wire). I test fit everything and my stock fuel lines and vapor separator clear, brackets and hardware are first class stuff, looks to all powder coated and cadmium plated. So far the only issue may be the factory spark-plug wire holder at the front end of my exhaust manifold. So far so good, pics tomorrow when I start checking wiring hook up. It sits lower and out farther than the stock one but it's smaller so there is more room for wires and fuel lines, you'll see.   

[Belgium R/T -68]

High output alternator is the way to go.

Per

[Hemidog]

High output alternator is the way to go.

Per

with an internal voltage regulator!

[b5blue]

This one uses the stock 70 up voltage regulator. (making it a 3 wire)

[b5blue]

Yahoo! It's in and had a few test drives for full operation and works great! I'm pooped out and my camera is dead but I'll post pic's later....finally full charge at idle with EVERYTHING on! 

[b5blue]

Here is some pics of the mod: 1-Added wires and clamps to hold them. 2-mounted brackets. 3-I notched the frame for more clearance as it was 1/4 inch away from touching. 4-All done! Next I'll be adding control relays and creating a power junction off the output wire to feed them.

[Nacho-RT74]

Great! the junction box is the way to go when adding relays on Alt side!!!

Please don't forget to run parallel wires ( specially if you're gonna keep ammeter working )

I'm using the ammeter stud like the junction, since I installed all the tipical relays inside the cab ( headlights, AC Blower ) running a "buss" wire from side to side under the dash, but for even more extra equipment the Junction ( or buss bar ) ON ALT SIDE is the way to go.

[b5blue]

I'm going to run a #8 off output (#10 on there now) to a junction that will feed back to blower and wipers relays and forward for headlight relays, all connections are crimped and then soldered. Waytek Inc. sells heat shrink with sealant that melts when shrunk and has the proper "Delphi Packard 56 series connectors" like the factory used (that crimp to conductor and insulator) along with the tool to crimp both at the same time. The plan is much like your outline Nacho now that idle output is beat and plenty of reserve amps are available. Between cleaning with vinegar and salt, then treating with Caig Labs "DeoxIT D100L" anything I service should stay fixed and I'll be able to repair any issues in my dash harness. The end result will look near factory by using clip connector body's and proper wraps to anything added. I am adding bulkhead pass through for feeding AMP Gauge in and out with better wire to get feed and charge off the small 56 series connectors in main bulkhead assembly. (I will take some time to save up $$ to do this, but it will happen!) Thanks for your advise Nacho it's good to see someone else thinks the same way on this stuff! 

[Mefirst]

Whats the Part # for that alternator?? Does it fit the stock brackets?

/Tom

[b5blue]

Denso 210-0138   I got mine with a bracket set (Not Stock) from Mancini.

[Hemidog]

http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/delialbrpk.html

[b5blue]

MRE-6655 KIT. They use alts re-manufactured by "Denso" (At first I thought I was getting new) and a bracket set with hardware, NO WIRES (I was wrong, the smaller 65 amp get's an adapter)  I still have yet to test at idle, in the rain, at night with full lights, blowers and wipers on high but "testing" has passed fine. Just need rain at night!

[b5blue]

UPDATE: This sucker works really well! A full draw of everything running on high, High beams, max blower, wiper on high foot on the brake in idle and my gauge is rock steady! You get a small "reaction bip" on the AMP gauge needle to + then it returns to center as it adjusts to the new load.
 The notch I put in the frame is not really needed, I just wanted extra clearance for wiggle room. I found when replacing my fuel pump recently it was easy to just kinda roll the alt. up and lay it on the valve cover (Battery disconnected of course.) on top of a rag. Clearance was/is awesome for replacing the pump with the brackets in place and due to the smaller diameter of the alt the plug wires and fuel lines are much less crowded passing between the alt. and water pump housing.
 I did find I needed to remove the plug wire bracket off the front exhaust manifold stud as it projects close to the alt output stud shroud. With the new clearance the plug wires flow past that normally tight corner nicely and lay natural on to the plugs so it's actually better.
 I give this set up 5 stars if your not worried about the "correct factory appearance", It's a dream come true for me after all the years of watching my AMP gauge needle rowing back and forth due to low idle alt output. I have noticed now, even with no mods to the harness EVERYTHING works just fine, headlights are brite all the time and blower and wiper motors are run as they should, I swear even the ignition feels stronger due to the proper amps and voltage being fed.
 I will be adding an "Alt. Output Terminal" near the side of the alt. with a high capacity wire running to the terminal from the alt. as a main distribution point in the future. I'll update this topic when I figure out what/how I do it.    

[b5blue]

  Pushing 4 years for this mod with zero issues with stock wiring adapted as in pics. I've upgraded the ALT gauge to a new OER brand gauge rated for 60amp max. and adding an 8ga parallel, fused at 60amp from the output stud to the positive post on the ALT gauge.
  With the new harness to the dash and front lights installed I'm not adding any parallel from the gauge to the battery circuit. This will prevent the battery from drawing too much current if something were to go wrong with it. I'd rater have the fuseable link go and protect the the rest of the harness/car.
  The only assumption made is that the car is not run with more than a normal starting discharge from the battery. After years of monitoring the heat buildup from varying degrees of battery discharge the main feed wire can get hot quickly pushing 60amp to recharge the battery. I now carry a 350amp battery booster pack as a backup.
  4 years ago the options were limited, GM one wires being the cheapest and marginal gains from other Alts. Now it seems there many more to pick from on the market but even they would need care and understanding of how to apply to your cars build and changes. I'm not running extra pumps/fans/amplifiers/HID lights or anything that adds a greater demand to any part of the cars electrical system.