Is buffing a car difficult?

[Belgium R/T -68]

Since my painter still doesn't give me any dates in the near future when he "feels" like buffing my car I'm starting to think about doing it myself but I have read most threads I've seen here about it and it doesn't seems that easy.
First of all I have some general questions:

What decides that wetsanding is needed? What's the purpose of it?
Buffing, is it comparable with buffing chrometrim? Different stages, compounds.
The difference between buffing and polishing?

Positive thing is that I have the first trunklid to practice on if I would go for it.

Per

[tricky lugnuts]

I would guess yes... But not really. 

First wet sand to remove minor imperfections in the paint - a piece of dirt, orange peel, a run in the clear, etc. That will "flatten" and "smooth" the paint... This I would say anyone can handle, given proper care (i.e. use a block) and the right grit paper. It's also half the job.

Then buff, something I am not an expert on. The only reason I say it is hard is because I can't do it and I've seen other people seriously make a mess of the operation, leaving compound and swirl marks everywhere.

In both operations, watch out for corners and lines, areas where the sandpaper or buffer will burn through the paint quickly. And clean up the mess left behind from both operations quickly. Buffing compound sucks when it dries.

Others will be able to provide you with better info I'm sure...

[hemi-hampton]

Rubbing is not necessary & optional. Optional if you want a nicer looking job. I hear & see 10 different people give 10 different opinions. Lots of different ways to do it. On this Mustang I used 1000 grit dry with DA on hard DA pad. Then went over it with 1500 wet on soft interface DA pad. This will get you decent results fast. Not perfect show car but OK.

[Belgium R/T -68]

If you feel I should leave it for the proffesionals, please say so. Don't want to start something that may get out of hand after all this time and money.

Per

[hemi-hampton]

Here it is outside in the Sun. Has a niice gloss, better then Factory. LEON.

[AKcharger]

Here's a step-by-step wet sanding, take a look!

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,61461.msg685207.html#msg685207

[bill440rt]

Per, if you've never done it before it can be intimidating. While not totally difficult, you need to have a good eye as not to sand too much, stay away from corners and sharp edges, watch for sand scratches in the clear, etc.
Then there's the investment of the equipment, sandpaper/pads, polishes, compounds, glazes, polishing pads, etc.

If you've never done it before, try it first on your daily driver before tackling your Charger. That should give you some confidence.
Again, it's not that hard but if you're unsure about it you can ruin a paint job real quick if you slip up.

[TUFCAT]

Why did you have to repaint a 2010 Mustang Leon? 

[hemi-hampton]

Why did you have to repaint a 2010 Mustang Leon? 

Bad case of Hail Damage. Looked like someone took a ball peen hammer to hood, roof & trunk.   LEON.

[Highbanked Hauler]

  Being a 2010 you must have replaced everything?

[hemi-hampton]

Replaced what, We did remove All the glass. I removed many Items, Rear Spoiler, Rear brake lite in Trunk, ect, ect. Did not have the special $60 Antenna tool. Insurance was paying me like 0.02 hours to remove that. I'd pay $60 for a tool I'd use once just to make .02 hours or .50 cents. Can only do what the Insurance company wants to pay for. The Insurance companies never pay you to wet sand & Rub. I spent 2 days wet sanding & rubbing this thing for free & never got paid for it. 2 days for free work is about negative $400 in the hole I am. LEON.

[jeryst]

If you feel I should leave it for the proffesionals, please say so. Don't want to start something that may get out of hand after all this time and money.

Per

If you dont know how to buff a new paint job, DONT TRY IT!
It's very easy to burn through the paint, cause swirl marks, scratches, miss spots, etc.
Once its ruined, its ruined. Your only options will be touchup, or repaint.
If the painter ruins it, he has to fix it. If you ruin it, tough luck.
The only thing its costing you now, is time. Be patient.

[Belgium R/T -68]

Thanks for the honesty. Problem is I just may have to, my painter got p****d off after he saw my thread about the
trunklid. I asked another paintshop but they want 700$ for the buffing.

Per

[hemi-hampton]

Dont buff  it, save all that money, Problem solved. LEON.

[Belgium R/T -68]

Dont buff  it, save all that money, Problem solved. LEON.

Have crossed my mind.

Per

[jeryst]

Dont buff  it, save all that money, Problem solved. LEON.

I had a Cuda done a couple of years ago, that looked so beautiful, I never had it buffed.

As for your paint guy getting mad, its his own damn fault not yours. Tell him to grow up, man up, and finish the job he got paid for.

[Belgium R/T -68]

The only place that really needs to be taken care off is by the back window/sailpanelarea. It's a big area with too much clearcoat
but I don't know if you can do one spot and leave the rest? On the pic you see I have marked it.

Per

[Belgium R/T -68]

Anybody ever did some local wetsanding/buffing?

Per