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Big Block valve cover gasket

Started by bobs66440, May 13, 2010, 07:24:17 PM

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bobs66440

A couple of guys on the 66-67 forum (including myself) are having difficulty with the passenger side valve cover gasket sealing on our big blocks, particularly when using the Mopar Performance aluminum valve covers and stock or HP exhaust manifolds. It's very hard to see but it seems the pass. side cover hits the manifold and won't seat properly. After many tries, mine was solved by grinding some off the valve cover to clear the manifold and using the FelPro rubber-coated fiber gaskets and silicone on all surfaces to seal. 

Is this a common problem on these engines?

I would think that a steel-core cork or silicone gasket with no sealant would work too, but I didn't try it (was in a hurry to get it done & I couldn't find any locally).


Thanks,  Bob   :2thumbs:

resq302

Bob,

I have had good luck sealing up my cork/rubber gaskets on the factory steel stamped valve covers to the head by using the Indian Head Gasket Compound on both sides of the gasket.  Seemed to cure my valve cover leaks.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

bobs66440

Indian Head Gasket Compound, hmmm, I've never heard of it before. I'll check it out.  Thanks!

resq302

Small brown bottle with a white metal cap (brush in bottle).  Think it is made by Mr. Gasket or something like that.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

carolina charger

Indian Head Gasket Compound has been around for many years. I can remember seeing it when I was a little boy. I liked the way it smelled.

bobs66440


62 Max

The Fel-Pro 1015 is a Neoprene coated fiber,3/16"hick.With a straight valve cover it won't leak,needs no sealer and you can reuse it.Mopar Performance also sells it ,not cheap in either case.

bobs66440

Quote from: 62 Max on May 16, 2010, 06:58:31 PM
The Fel-Pro 1015 is a Neoprene coated fiber,3/16"hick.With a straight valve cover it won't leak,needs no sealer and you can reuse it.Mopar Performance also sells it ,not cheap in either case.

I looked that part number up and it shows as a head gasket  :ahum:

Do you mean this one?

http://www.jegs.com/i/Fel+Pro/375/VS50145R/10002/-1

It is rubber coated fiber and was what I ended up using that worked, though I used sealer on it.

62 Max

Sorry about that,Fel-Pro # is 1612,Mopar Performance sells the Fel-Pro gasket under their pt.# P4452091.

Rubber-Coated Fiber is used for some high heat applications, such as Chrysler big block V8 engines, where the valve cover is in close proximity to the exhaust manifold. These gaskets are made of a stiff, high temperature fiber material coated with latex rubber.


Patronus

Your not alone, I've had problems with that side too... haven't  seen the intake interference, but the head to v/c contact area in the lower rear is very minimal in over-lap. (69-383) I too use the thicker rubber coated fiber gaskets. . . .
'73 Cuda 340 5spd RMS
'69 Charger 383 "Luci"
'08 CRF 450r
'12.5 450SX FE

Challenger340

Mopar Performance V/Covers = "Made in Taiwan"

Grind the V/cover rail, where it may be interfering/contacting with the Intake Manifold and preventing a good seal, then use a Good gasket "attached" to the V/Cover to prevent Gasket "Roll" at minimal sealing areas.
I use 3m Fast-Tack adhesive
Yellow Snotty crap.(must be better out there)

The Fast-Tack is a bitch to get off, when you do actually "change" the gaskets at some point,
but in the meanwhile,
you can go ON & OFF with the covers at your liesure.
Only wimps wear Bowties !

Cooter

A Buddy had a machine shop machine the valve cover sealing surface to where it was flat on the top where the gasket goes, custom machined a set of "Spacers" to raise the "Rail", and permenantly sealed it to the heads, then installed the valve cover gasket...

Chrysler had problems with the old style 4-bolt, valve cover heads, so they designed a 6 bolt head..Well, My experience is, they leak as well....
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

bobs66440

Quote from: Challenger340 on May 18, 2010, 10:54:43 AM


Grind the V/cover rail, where it may be interfering/contacting with the Intake Manifold and preventing a good seal...

Mine was hitting the exhaust manifold. Sorry for the confusion.

bobs66440


Charger´69

Yep, I have that same problem too  :'( Almost always when I cold start my Charger there comes a bit smoke from the right side valve cover when engine is warming up. I haven´t check yet that is the valve cover´s gasket broken or what, but there is somekind of leak. I have Magnum exhaust manifolds and of course oil burns there and smells "good"..  :shruggy:

I didn´t know that this is usual problem, I just thought that maybe gasket is broken. It doesn´t bother much, because when engine is warm it doesn´t leak, smoke or smell anymore. But maybe I still buy new gaskets and try to change those hoping that it stops leaking  :scratchchin:
Plymouth Fury "Christine's Sister" 4x4 6-71 1959
Dodge Charger R/T 440cid 1969
Pontiac Trans Am T-top SuperBandit 400cid 1978
Jeep Cherokee Renegade 4x4 3.7 2006

ACUDANUT

 Wait until your 727 starts leaking, and then you can really join the crowd. On the valve cover, I highly recommend using a fel-pro Rubber gasket. CORK SUCKS.

Charger´69

Quote from: ACUDANUT on May 18, 2010, 01:33:01 PM
Wait until your 727 starts leaking, and then you can really join the crowd. On the valve cover, I highly recommend using a fel-pro Rubber gasket. CORK SUCKS.

I´m already waiting that day  :rofl: Ok, I´ll buy those Fel-pro rubber gaskets, let´s see then does it stop leaking  ::) I don´t know what kind of gaskets there is now...  :shruggy:

Cork sucks always, I won´t never use cork if I have other choices  :RantExplode:
Plymouth Fury "Christine's Sister" 4x4 6-71 1959
Dodge Charger R/T 440cid 1969
Pontiac Trans Am T-top SuperBandit 400cid 1978
Jeep Cherokee Renegade 4x4 3.7 2006

Cooter

Most, if not ALL trans pans on newer cars are Glued on with sealer, including but not limited to oil pans as well..

I finally got so fed up with the 440's valve cover gaskets that I simply "Glued" 'em on with sealer...
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

ACUDANUT

GO Fel-pro and "your done with it"  :Twocents:

ODZKing

Yes Bob, I agree on the Fel-Pro gaskets.  I also used a product purchased at Napa called Form-A-Gasket.  The ultra hi temp permatex stuff will work too but this was supposed to be better.
The procedure my said to use was:
Put the bolts in and hand tighten withe the socket (and extention) ONLY after applying the goo and then the gasket.  Let sit overnight.  Then next day, hand tighten a bit more as they will have settled a bit.  Then start the car and let it warm.  Check by hand again and repeat proceedure the next day.  It works very well - if you're not in a hurry anyway.
Let us know how you make out.
Bob