Ignition timing on startup

[frederick]

Finally getting closer to starting the car.

Because I want to make sure it will start on the first try is it possible to time the distributor beforehand?
I was thinking about doing this:
-removing all the spark plugs
-removing the lifters and pushrods
-starting and using a timinggun to set the ignition at 10deg BTDC.

Make sense?

[FLG]

HUH?

Removing all that, than somehow starting it??

All you need to do to be close is turn the motor over so your at TDC with the #1 cylinder, than make sure the rotor is pointed to the wire going to #1 on the cap.

[Musicman]

I was thinking about doing this:
-removing all the spark plugs
-removing the lifters and pushrods
-starting and using a timinggun to set the ignition at 10deg BTDC.

Make sense?

Thanks, I needed that

[71383bee]

Finally getting closer to starting the car.

Because I want to make sure it will start on the first try is it possible to time the distributor beforehand?
I was thinking about doing this:
-removing all the spark plugs
-removing the lifters and pushrods
-starting and using a timinggun to set the ignition at 10deg BTDC.

Make sense?

Uhhhh no?!?!

I agree on the 10 btdc though.  Its very easy to do just rotate the motor over clockwise on the #1 compression stroke and stop when the 0 mark is at the beginning of the timing tab.  They are usually marked with + and - 10 degrees.  Then wire it up and fire it up...

[elacruze]

You didn't say what type of ignition you have, so I'll assume it's electronic with a distributor-mounted trigger.
Disconnect and plug your vacuum advance.

1. Remove #1 spark plug
2. Place finger over spark plug hole
3. Rotate engine in running direction until pressure is felt building in hole #1
4. Continue to rotate engine until timing mark 10* BTC aligns
5. Align Cap and Rotor to #1 cylinder
6. Fire engine with timing light, adjust as necessary.

Remember that if you rev the engine past 1200-1500 rpm the mechanical advance will throw off your timing light. Worry more about keeping the rpms up than the exact timing, so you keep the cam oiled. If the engine cranks very hard, back the timing off some. If it cranks easy but runs good, don't worry about it. Worry more about leaks, oil pressure, and coolant circulation.

[frederick]

Hi guys, thanks for the replies.

Glad you liked it musicman.

Engine isn't completely build up yet.
The lifters and pushrods aren't in the engine yet, that's why I thought I could turn the engine over on the starter and time it.
The engine doesn't run obviously , but it does spark. (provided ignition wires are grounded)

Elacruze, I do have an electronic ignition with magnetic trigger from performance distributors.
Thanks, your idea would be easier.
I do have one question on that, does the rotor have to point to the middle of the contact or just before it?

"Worry more about leaks, oil pressure, and coolant circulation."
OK, starting to worry on that now.

Cheers,

Frederick

[elacruze]

Re the rotor alignment-

The rotor and cap do not have to be in full synch to function, however it is good insurance to get them perfect in the end. That is, when your spark begins, the rotor should be just a little into the cap contact-that way, the rotor is passing the cap contact for the entire duration of the spark and none is wasted, and prevents spark energy from trying to find an alternate path, leading to carbon tracking or crossfires. For your initial startup, just point them at each other and worry about exact position later. I use a cap with windows cut in it and a strobe light to verify rotor position during firing.

Eric

[frederick]

 
Thanks Eric.