Temporary metal protection

[motorcitydak]

Ill be playing the part of the one guy that does everything to his car in the backyard on my days off. I have the car torn down and now will be starting the sheet metal work. I have a lot of small pieces that need work all over the car. What I need to do is be able to work on something, maybe stop and continue on it later and not have it covered in rust. What can I use to cover up bare metal that I can take off again easily, yet will still not allow any rust to form in the mean time? I figure I will also have to cover up the patches and leave them while I go on to other parts until the car can be sanded down and ready for paint and primer too.

[Silver R/T]

theres no easy way to do it. You can use epoxy primer over panels that you're done working on until you get whole car painted. That's only primer that gives best protection from moisture and is durable (as long as youre using 2k product)

[68blue]

Solvent based booth strip coat might work.

[jaak]

theres no easy way to do it. You can use epoxy primer over panels that you're done working on until you get whole car painted. That's only primer that gives best protection from moisture and is durable (as long as youre using 2k product)

I agree Epoxy is the only way to go.... no matter how temping it is to use laqcuer primer or spray cans...don't do it. Might I suggest stripping the car (what ever method you prefer...mediablast...chemical stripper, whatever) Then epoxy the whole car. It will be protected and you can do bodywork on top of epoxy. I have been hearing alot of good things about Southern Polyurethanes. It is a company that produces primers and clears, and everyone on all the bodywork forums love there products. I looked it up there Epoxy mixes 1:1 with activator, so a gallon of epoxy and a gallon of activator is $144, which makes 2 gallons sprayable.
http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/
Jason

[ZSmithersCharges]

theres no easy way to do it. You can use epoxy primer over panels that you're done working on until you get whole car painted. That's only primer that gives best protection from moisture and is durable (as long as youre using 2k product)

I agree Epoxy is the only way to go.... no matter how temping it is to use laqcuer primer or spray cans...don't do it. Might I suggest stripping the car (what ever method you prefer...mediablast...chemical stripper, whatever) Then epoxy the whole car. It will be protected and you can do bodywork on top of epoxy. I have been hearing alot of good things about Southern Polyurethanes. It is a company that produces primers and clears, and everyone on all the bodywork forums love there products. I looked it up there Epoxy mixes 1:1 with activator, so a gallon of epoxy and a gallon of activator is $144, which makes 2 gallons sprayable.
http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/
Jason

How many does it take to shoot the whole car?  Saying were talking about a 68-70 here?  Also, sorry for the thread jack.

[jaak]

theres no easy way to do it. You can use epoxy primer over panels that you're done working on until you get whole car painted. That's only primer that gives best protection from moisture and is durable (as long as youre using 2k product)

I agree Epoxy is the only way to go.... no matter how temping it is to use laqcuer primer or spray cans...don't do it. Might I suggest stripping the car (what ever method you prefer...mediablast...chemical stripper, whatever) Then epoxy the whole car. It will be protected and you can do bodywork on top of epoxy. I have been hearing alot of good things about Southern Polyurethanes. It is a company that produces primers and clears, and everyone on all the bodywork forums love there products. I looked it up there Epoxy mixes 1:1 with activator, so a gallon of epoxy and a gallon of activator is $144, which makes 2 gallons sprayable.
http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/
Jason

How many does it take to shoot the whole car?  Saying were talking about a 68-70 here?  Also, sorry for the thread jack.

Thats one thing I haven't got an eye for yet, is detemining quantities. But I figured 2 gallons would be enough for entire car including jambs. The last quart I mixed up (2 quarts sprayable) I primed 2 doors/including jambs and to topside and bottom side of a hood and a couple of smaller parts.

Jason

[ZSmithersCharges]

Thats one thing I haven't got an eye for yet, is detemining quantities. But I figured 2 gallons would be enough for entire car including jambs. The last quart I mixed up (2 quarts sprayable) I primed 2 doors/including jambs and to topside and bottom side of a hood and a couple of smaller parts.

Jason

No worries, I got a little while before I get to that so I will have time to look it up.  Just thought I'd ask while we were on the subject.

[Charger-Bodie]

This is one of the few things I use self etch primer for and only for the underside and jambs etc.....Its easy to scuff off and apply epoxy later. The reason I use self etch in those areas is to not take away from the character of the welds and press marks.

  If you are mainly stripping the exterior of your car epoxy ...all .....the ....way!!!...You can do your filler work over it, it seals the metal better than pretty much anything else. Its great stuff.

[mauve66]

is this "epoxy" primer the same as "urethane" (sp) primer??

[Silver R/T]

is this "epoxy" primer the same as "urethane" (sp) primer??

they're both 2K primers. Which means they have activator that goes into primer that will catalyze it

[mauve66]

my "friend of a friend" wants me to get what he calls 2K primer but i was thinking he said urethane instead of epoxy, you guys think epoxy is better of the two??

my situation is some minor bare metal, a lot of "shit brick" sanded base coat/clear coat (which we will go over with two colors of primer to see low sections), 2 fair sized sections covered with marrglass/glassmarr? (that covered alot of welding) and some minor regular bondo (didn't see the brand/type).

the car was originally taken down to bare metal when repainted 12 years ago so i figured it was ok to paint on top of whats there after we go over it to get out the stuff we didn't catch last time

[jaak]

my "friend of a friend" wants me to get what he calls 2K primer but i was thinking he said urethane instead of epoxy, you guys think epoxy is better of the two??

my situation is some minor bare metal, a lot of "shit brick" sanded base coat/clear coat (which we will go over with two colors of primer to see low sections), 2 fair sized sections covered with marrglass/glassmarr? (that covered alot of welding) and some minor regular bondo (didn't see the brand/type).

the car was originally taken down to bare metal when repainted 12 years ago so i figured it was ok to paint on top of whats there after we go over it to get out the stuff we didn't catch last time

If its just a couple of small "break-thru's" to bare metal, Urethane primer will be ok. Urethane and Epoxy are 2 totally different primers. Alot of folks call urethane primer "2K", when in actuallity, any primer, paint, etc. that requires and activator/hardener is a 2K (two component) product. Epoxy is best used on bare metal, after stripping epoxy prime....then do your body work. Some people even use reduced Epoxy as a sealer, right before paint. Urethane primer is the "filling primer" that fills in sandscratches,etc. This is what is block sanded. Some Urethanes are DTM (direct to metal) that claim they can be directly sprayed over bare metal.

FWIW, another primer that is used is polyester primer. If a car has had alot of bodywork, or needs "skim coat" Poly is the way to go. Its basically a sprayable body filler. Poly-primer technically is "2k" also because it requires a catalyst.

Just wanted to break down the different types Primers....but by your description, sounds like 2k Urethane, is what you need.

Jason

[69*F5*SE]

 

[mauve66]

thanks, tha bare spots are about the size of a quarter/silver dollar range

[ZSmithersCharges]

If its just a couple of small "break-thru's" to bare metal, Urethane primer will be ok. Urethane and Epoxy are 2 totally different primers. Alot of folks call urethane primer "2K", when in actuallity, any primer, paint, etc. that requires and activator/hardener is a 2K (two component) product. Epoxy is best used on bare metal, after stripping epoxy prime....then do your body work. Some people even use reduced Epoxy as a sealer, right before paint. Urethane primer is the "filling primer" that fills in sandscratches,etc. This is what is block sanded. Some Urethanes are DTM (direct to metal) that claim they can be directly sprayed over bare metal.

FWIW, another primer that is used is polyester primer. If a car has had alot of bodywork, or needs "skim coat" Poly is the way to go. Its basically a sprayable body filler. Poly-primer technically is "2k" also because it requires a catalyst.

Just wanted to break down the different types Primers....but by your description, sounds like 2k Urethane, is what you need.

Jason

My turn!  If you have sand scratches can you spray urethane or poly primer on and then use epoxy after you smooth it out since you say epoxy is best for bare metal?  Is there any benefit from doing this?  Or if the car has sand scratches should you just do the whole car in urethane or poly and then basecoat/clear or whatever your combination?  The only reason I ask is because my car does not have rust everywhere so paint stripper will work and leave a smooth finish over the majority of the body in bare metal.  I will only have sand scratches where there is rust and would like the best bond.  Thank you for your help