So what's the best alternator to use on my 68?

[bull]

Has anyone ever tried the alternators from Bouchllon?  It says they are 75 amps with at least 50 amps at idle.  Here's a link...  http://www.bouchillonperformance.com/BPEalternators.asp

Good question. Seems like a decent price on those too.

[Nacho-RT74]

ok, they are available at shops on $50 LOL

[bull]

ok, they are available at shops on $50 LOL

With 50 amps at idle?

[Nacho-RT74]

46 I think remmeber to read on a test made by BBB

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=QuestionAnswer&Number=5894237&Searchpage=1&Main=5894237&Words=beck%2Farnley+NachoRT74&topic=&Search=true#Post5894237

[b5blue]

50 amp at idle would certainly be better than what I get now but with shipping we are up to 200.00 or so, now I wonder what Mancini's Denso puts out.  Anyone got amp draw numbers for nite lighting I know the A/C (when installed later) will use 20 amps, wiper motor probably 15 or 20?   

[Dodgecharger74]

wattage of lamp divided by voltage gives amperage    55 w divided by 12 = 4.59 amps  If you have 14 v at lamp it will draw 3.93 amps most alternators output is at 14 volt if you spin it at proper speed

[b5blue]

And add dash, brake, sidemarker, tail and front running lights......blinkers........ .....I see it in my gauge and dimming lights. (and slower wipers and blower motor!) 

[Nacho-RT74]

Anyone got amp draw numbers for nite lighting I know the A/C (when installed later) will use 20 amps, wiper motor probably 15 or 20?   

I think you are overrating those...

[bull]

After reading all of this I think I'm more confused than when I started.

[b5blue]

I'm sure you are! None of this is a huge issue unless (Like me) you plan/need to use the car day and night rain or shine and still care how "stock it looks" (I no longer give a rats a-- about looks, I want AMPS!) The company "Quick Start" is the one trying to develop the real fix, if done (still waiting) it would have extra windings for more idle amps and all HD guts for more total amps and reliability yet look very stock and bolt right in. I'll be calling them this week as I really to do something, rainy season is bearing down quickly on me and I'm not going through this again. (last year was a bitch!) On a really tight budget I'm saving for whatever it takes to beat this so $$ is my hang up or I'd have the 120 amp Denso from Mancini in there (250.00) and control relays up the wazoo to handle the extra power. My relay plug in bases came in today to go with my 40 amp relays so I'm about ready to start modifying my harnesses. I'll keep you posted on how I solve this last engineering problem for my car. Largely the mods Nacho posted are spot on, I had planned very similar changes using my Air Force training and boat repair/modification experience combined. (along with repairing Jags and other imports crappy wiring systems)   

[bull]

I'm tempted ot just go with stock until this gets ironed out but then again it's not like I'm going to be on the road this summer. Alts are pretty easy to install so I'll just leave that spot empty for a while.

[b5blue]

 

[bull]

Any news from Quick Start on that new alt they were supposed to be producing?

[b5blue]

None, I had/have a standing order in for one and not a single word from them. They were clear that custom windings needed and through testing were all in the RD phase. The Mancini 120amp Denso "kit" has performed very well for me in the 5 months I've used it so far, it has met all demands like running High beams, blower on high, wipers on high all at idle without missing a beat, no dimming of lights or slowing of motors. (As a bonus the ignition is enjoying rock steady volts/amps also) So far this year though costly the Charger has proven 2 upgrades well worth the money, the Denso and Don's A-688 ignition system with the phased and curved (to my engine's build spec.) distributor. The year before it was Ron's Fire Core plug wires and his recommended NGK XR-5 spark plugs, all proven "problem solver" components. (I still can't get over the improvement a properly set up vacuum advance has made in the 440's performance and mileage!)     

[bull]

I have a couple problems with the Denso deal, assuming I understand the mod you did. I'll run it by you to be sure. Do you have to notch the rail for clearance and do you have to buy Mancini's bracket set? If so I don't want any part of either.

[b5blue]

If you found my thread yes I did notch, was it needed...no. After farting around with belts back and forth to NAPA I found the belt I had from my stock set-up was spot on and tightened up, it moves away from the frame nicely. The "kit" includes everything Brackets, Bolts, Spacers and is very high quality, nice stuff. I had to fabricate a small harness to adapt to the length of factory wires, since I'll be modifying by adding control relays later and they will be right there anyway. I've run the new set-up with stock wiring, nothing changed. My dash has no radio or radio plate and I am able to reach into my dash and hold the wires and AMP gauge studs. The only time anything got hot was when I let the car sit for several weeks, I kinda flooded the engine flopping the gas peddle too much and had to crank it a bunch. I discharged my battery fairly good and the studs did get hot as the Denso went to work recharging. I have a brand new engine harness and all my connections are in A-1 shape, cleaned with salt and vinegar soaking (Per my topic on that) so with electrical kinda "being my thing" I did tons of research. A: you need a 70 up solid state type voltage regulator and 2 wire field feed. B: You do need to be aware that any up graded or really Mopars in general are not made to charge discharged batteries. (No cars are, I have 2 friends, one owns a Battery Co. and the other an Alt. rebuilding Co. they have beat it into my head for 20 years!) We put our collective experience together on this, my wiring skills, Lynn's battery and Steve's alt. knowledge, Amps, % reduction per pulley size @ idle RPM's vs exciter levels for output, yada yada yada= this was the best reliable, safe solution. Bull keep in mind I have a 440, everything fit fine, actually it fits better as there was always a bit of a traffic jam running plug wires and fuel lines between the alt. and the water pump housing area. The much smaller diameter Denso leaves more room there. The most dangerous set up is a crappy low amp, no amp at idle, with crappy corroded connections in the bulk heads and other places kind of set up...all it will do is run amps back and forth the harness building up heat, increasing resistance the hotter it gets. You have time, possibly Quick Start will get their unit on the market in time an it will be the simplest and look stock.    Try contacting them.         

[bull]

Thanks. I don't know which Quick Start is the right one. I did a Google search and got more than one possible hit.

As for connections and what not, I too have a new M&H/Y1 harness (lots of them actually) for the engine so corrosion shouldn't be an issue. I also have no alt yet so when I finally get one it should also be clean, unless I get a Tiajuana rebuild.

I don't have a grasp on the relay situation yet so that's something I need to research. I assume you're talking regular old relays without diodes or resistors, right?

And what about OE brackets with a denso? Can they be used or do you have to use Mancini's?

[b5blue]

My "Kit" was 250.00 and has the brackets, bolts and a model # 210-0138 remanufactured Denso alt. all included. The relay stuff will be for load distribution, the switches for my blower fans (I have a rear defogger to add) and headlights will control 40amp relays fed right off alt. output, dropping amps that run through the harness and bulkheads much like Nacho's diagrams outline. Give me some time and I'll see if I can dig up a link for Q. S. it was in one of Nacho's threads. For 15 years I farted around with different factory alt. and at best they had barely minimal idle output, all lead to dimming lights, slowing wipers and blowers at idle, with the corresponding AMP gauge swinging needle from discharge to charge. I wanted a real world test of everything after just changing the alt. itself (no wire mods) and it's passed with flying colors. The relays will be just to improve the efficiency of the whole system. (Also no diodes or resisters needed, just relays and wiring, when I do it I'll post pics.)(I'm trying to cook up a mod that looks kinda factory, plug and play if you will, with factory connectors)     

[bull]

So you must use Mancini's brackets?

When I mentioned the relays, diodes and resistors I meant relays with built-in diodes and resistors. I'm assuming you used relays without built-in diodes and resistors, right? As they have specific uses.

[b5blue]

On the brackets, they get them from someone, I remember seeing them online but can't recall who. (That's why I gave you the part # for the alt.) The relays are "just" 12V relays, I got a bunch of them and the sockets they plug into off eBay. My plan is to run a #8 wire off the alt output to a 150amp distribution buss block with built in fuses. From that I'll feed the load in terminals of all the relays and the factory harness feed. I went with the 120amp over the 60 amp because I'll be adding aftermarket A/C and a 110 volt AC inverter power supply later. If your question is will it fit a "stock" set of brackets, I don't think so. 

[bull]

I'm tempted just to go down to Autozone and buy a 1973 Charger alternator, do the headlight relay upgrade and leave it at that. I lived with the dimming headlights for 11 years when I ran my '70 Charger back in the day and it didn't kill me.

[b5blue]

I get ya, what got me is in Florida the rain can stay for days, running lights with wipers is mandatory and with constant high humidity so are defoggers. Not good on the nerves to be constantly fighting low amps by popping it into neutral to raise idle for + amps then shifting back to pull away and such. Many times I got home and had to put it on the battery charger to top up the darn battery. I mean come on the darn car is called a CHARGER and it won't charge!    For me it boils down to mine being a daily driver, I gotta be ready for hell or high water by the time my beater dies on me and it's pushing 200K miles.

[nh_mopar_fan]

I'm tempted just to go down to Autozone and buy a 1973 Charger alternator, do the headlight relay upgrade and leave it at that. I lived with the dimming headlights for 11 years when I ran my '70 Charger back in the day and it didn't kill me.

I think that'll be my plan. Can I used that on a 1st gen?

[b5blue]

Do a Search here, 1st gen has 1 field wire. You just ground the 2nd one, but get full details from the forum. 

[bull]

I'm tempted just to go down to Autozone and buy a 1973 Charger alternator, do the headlight relay upgrade and leave it at that. I lived with the dimming headlights for 11 years when I ran my '70 Charger back in the day and it didn't kill me.

I think that'll be my plan. Can I used that on a 1st gen?

I've got a new wiring harness from Year One (M&H) which is built for electronic ignition with the newer style alternator. If your harness is stock you'll most likely need to stay stock with the alt., but I'm not one to give advice on this since I can barely figure out my own mess.